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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have decided to have a little play and build my first lamp. Have ordered kit from Cutter - maxflex3, 4 R2 on board, and medium MR11 optic type 4 way medium. I am not able to make my own housing. For housing I have choosed E27 DIY LED Light Bulb Casing with Focusing Optic from DX (sku 1371). As I can't order good heatsink as I wish - 8W heatsink ECB-00393-01 (http://ecd.coolermaster.com/english/products/products.php?_ledlist) which would easy combine with front housing, have decided to couple two bulb casing with new drilled pot. Leds and optic will be in front housing and electronics, waterproof switch and gland will be in the back. The back housing will be filled up, but I hope that there is enough room for all.
Battery will be lipo pack 4000mAh 7.4V.
I am something worrying about heat. Don't know how many heat 12 W realy is.

As I ordered a few more bulbs from DX my next project will be head lamp with MCE or P7, or maybe 3 XP-E leds.

Have anybody tryed that housings from DX?

some pictures:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
.40AET said:
How do the housings couple together? I like the looks of that.
A friend will drill me a new pot (old one is down left on second picture), which will have thread on both sides. Next ones for 1 star heatsink for cree mc-e or P7, I will just assemble pots together with screws, I think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
HuffyPuffy said:
I think you are on to something with that case, looks like there may be a new type of light for folks to build based on it - I hope you have a cool name for it :thumbsup:
I'll call it FrozenStar :D
Didn't thought about it up to this time...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
yetibetty said:
What type of bar mount will you use?
I will remove one fin from heatsink, then will glue piece of aluminium in that space. This will be screwed to one of handlebar mounts from DX.
I have plans to build another lamp for helmet. It is small enough and be very light.
 

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Really great use of the two heatsing housings, Frozen, and a fantastic easy DIY housing solution. Out of interest, how deep are they (measured from front to back), they look about 20-25mm.

Those housings turn up on this torch http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.15574, which should be an easy shoe in for this reflector http://www.dealextreme.com/search.dx/search.14599 (credit to Ocean Breathes Salty and his Mining Lamp) - epoxied with a glass cover into the front of the bezel, for an easy DIY MC-E light. Might even give it a go myself if my stab at a 'Troutie Tesco MC-E' special gets too hot.
 

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Nice. I was eying those housings as a home for a couple cute-3 optics I have. I may just go low-tech though, with a "plumber's delight" housing.....the 35mm cute-3 optic fits almost perfectly in a 1 3/8" copper pipe cap.

Do you think the doubled housing is needed for cooling? Seems like one would provide enough surface area, and maybe add a piece of aluminum tubing on the back to house the driver?

JZ
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
I am using 4 R2 in 2 coupled fixtures and it doesn't look to much to me. Cooler is better, and after all, that housing is only 5,5$ at DX. At last I will probably also try that Cooler Master star heatsink. There will be place enough for for Maxflex, which is very warm so need cooling too.
Do not know here from room, but at -6°C outside, will not get real results how it would be cool when ride a bike.
I will take night rides at summer :D
.
 

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Very nice, this will no doubt be a cool enclosure on a bike - the fins are orientated so that air will flow though them and you have doubled them by adding the other enclosure for the driver. It looks like you have some optics choices as well (this one is one I used which may also work since you have a quad setup (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.1915). Please keep the pics coming.:thumbsup:
 

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Nice. I have a couple of the 35mm cute-3 triple optics. I'm torn between ordering up some of those housings, or going cheap (but heavier) with the 1& 3/8" copper pipe caps I have on hand. Actually, both are cheap. Hmmm....

JZ
 

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Frozen that's very nice.

A few questions if you don't mind,

First, I read in another of your posts that your vf was 14.8v is this a recent cutter purchase as the vf seems a little high ? (I thought the newer ones had a lower vf) The reason I ask is because I have one on order.

Second, is the maxFlex doing OK with only 7.4 volts ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
On second question I can answer now, for the first I have to use multimeter (have only very old one). Cutter have send LEDs to me 6. january, do not know which batch is it.
Maxflex works good at 750mA. At 1000mA it produce much heat and switch off fast (go to failure mode).
 

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frozen said:
On second question I can answer now, for the first I have to use multimeter (have only very old one). Cutter have send LEDs to me 6. january, do not know which batch is it.
Maxflex works good at 750mA. At 1000mA it produce much heat and switch off fast (go to failure mode).
Fozen, thanks for the reply.

If you have the leds with the higher vf like 14.8ish volts (and that could be what I receive)then I think a 11.1v battery wont make the maxFlex work so hard and would not get so hot.

But a 11.1 v battery will be just a bit too much for the lower 13..2ish vf of the newer leds (when dimmed vf could drop too low).

So If you do have the higher vf you maybe better with 11.1v battery to keep the driver cool.
 
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