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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, picked up a couple and here are my thoughts:

Looks pretty well built

Smaller than I thought

Less bright than I expected. More like 500 to 550 lumens

The beam sucks for the bars. It is excellent for helmet mount but would be better if it wasn't quite so hot-spotty in the middle. If the Cygolite Mitycross 350 had the P7s in it.....

The TridenX 600 lumen beam pattern with the 3 leds kicks the MS light up and down all day and is worth the extra money

There was a moisture spot in the middle of each light lens after 2 hours riding in very light rain. Not sure if that is normal?

The battery pack is pretty big for mounting on the helmet. I really don't like having the battery in my pack. I need to figure something out to helmet mount it.

That's it for now.
 

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Rolling
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So the real question is, do you think the MS was worth it?

$80 versus $300 for the TridenX.

How was the value for you?

(did you read other peoples thoughts on the MS before you bought?)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
First of all, the TridenX can be had for much less via ebay and 'sales' on various websites. The price is more like $250 and under.

I read a TON of other peoples thoughts before I bought. I actually thought well, I'll get a pair because they are supposed to be brighter than my current lights.... but they don't illuminate the trail more than my TridenX lights. Maybe they do and maybe they don't have more lumens, but for sure, they do not make my singletrack riding more illuminated. What I do know is that I had to not jump off of a few things that I normally do night riding.

If I had to get 1 helmet light and I was attending university, I'd buy the MS. If I had to get 1 helmet light and I have a normal job with 1.5 kids, a wife, and a mortgage... I'd get the TridenX. The beam on the TridenX is well thought out, fills singletrack with light, and is really bright. The MS is a little bit too spotty and not as bright as I think it's been advertised by the various reviews.
 

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Rolling
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gticlay said:
The price is more like $250 and under.
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That makes all the difference. I'm going to sell my three excellent MS lights and buy three of those now.

Oh wait. That means at best I would make the price of one of those lights.

Bummer.

Shocker that you thought they would be brighter. I saw lots of posts about 600 lumens or less. Seems like it was well known to me,

Well sorry about your disappointment. Maybe you can sell them on ebay and recoup your loss.

I have a different opinion than you in that I'm super happy with the beam pattern on the MS and use them, all the time. Using Two is best---one on the bar and one on the helmet--just like any bike light, which makes the MS even more practical given the price.

On a side note, I have two Niterider Halogens and a Niterider HID. I never use them anymore. They suck in comparison.
 

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gticlay said:
...I read a TON of other peoples thoughts before I bought...
I don't read thoughts, I read posts. Based on the TON of posts I read before I bought a Magicshine from Geoman, I was fully expecting around 500 to 600 lumens. Numerous posters have guestimated this range, and one specifically (on other forums I believe) actually measured it at 550 lumens. It is well known, here and elsewhere, that it doesn't put out the claimed 900 lumens, but around 50 - 60 % of that. I remember one poster even commenting about 900 lumens being the theoretical max for the top bin P7. Maybe you read a different TON of other people's thoughts than the TON of posts that I read.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
lidarman said:
That makes all the difference. I'm going to sell my three excellent MS lights and buy three of those now.

Oh wait. That means at best I would make the price of one of those lights.

Bummer.

Shocker that you thought they would be brighter. I saw lots of posts about 600 lumens or less. Seems like it was well known to me,

Well sorry about your disappointment. Maybe you can sell them on ebay and recoup your loss.

I have a different opinion than you in that I'm super happy with the beam pattern on the MS and use them, all the time. Using Two is best---one on the bar and one on the helmet--just like any bike light, which makes the MS even more practical given the price.

On a side note, I have two Niterider Halogens and a Niterider HID. I never use them anymore. They suck in comparison.
I can see you like them very much. I'm not really saying you should convert or anything... mostly that I think it's a better helmet light. I was running one on the bar and one on the helmet but maybe I'll try the 2 I have on the bars like you are plus something else on the helmet. With the Y-cable I should be able to do my after-work loop.
 

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I don't know if my battery is dodgy or not but when I run 2 lights on the bars with the Y-cable from Geoman, I get the red indicator on one of the lights after only about 30-35 minutes of riding, and the other usually follows about 10 minutes later. Someone elsewhere has suggested that the gauge of the wire in the Y cable is too small to carry the current necessary to supply 2 lights on high from the MagicShine battery pack, and the lights are detecting a voltage drop that is interpreted as the battery getting discharged.

I'm going to build an new Y-cable using the connectors from the existing cable, and some larger gauge wire to test my theory. I'll let you know in a couple of days what the outcome is. Any electrical engineers have some input of what AWG wire would be appropriate? Each light draws about 1.5 amps on high, and the battery pack is about 8.4 volts fully charged, so what's that for 2 lights on high, about 25 watts? Cable run of about 4"? I only need to replace the section that goes between the Y and the battery pack.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
BlownCivic said:
I don't know if my battery is dodgy or not but when I run 2 lights on the bars with the Y-cable from Geoman, I get the red indicator on one of the lights after only about 30-35 minutes of riding, and the other usually follows about 10 minutes later. Someone elsewhere has suggested that the gauge of the wire in the Y cable is too small to carry the current necessary to supply 2 lights on high from the MagicShine battery pack, and the lights are detecting a voltage drop that is interpreted as the battery getting discharged.

I'm going to build an new Y-cable using the connectors from the existing cable, and some larger gauge wire to test my theory. I'll let you know in a couple of days what the outcome is. Any electrical engineers have some input of what AWG wire would be appropriate? Each light draws about 1.5 amps on high, and the battery pack is about 8.4 volts fully charged, so what's that for 2 lights on high, about 25 watts? Cable run of about 4"? I only need to replace the section that goes between the Y and the battery pack.
I don't think it's your battery. I tried both MS's on the bars with one battery and the y-cable last night. As you said, the button on one turned red after about 40 minutes and the other after about 45 minutes. They were still about the same brightness and didn't turn off or blink or anything even 1/2 hour later. The same battery a couple nights before ran a single MS for about 2 hours without a red light.
 

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Don't worry, I'm sure lidarman will promptly interfere with the appropriate explanation. It certainly can't be MagicShine's fault, you must be doing something wrong with such a perfect light, dummy! :D
 

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Well I built the cable. It's not ideal because I had to graft the 18 awg wire onto the battery connector using a very short section of the original wire, as the connectors are molded onto the wire. If I had to guess, I'd say the wire is 26 to 24 awg tops. The lights have been sitting there on the chair for the last 15 minutes (ya, they're getting kind of hot) but the battery is in the same state of charge as it was when I last used it, and both lightheads indicated "red". Guess what? After 15 minutes, they're both still glowing green.

The proof will be when I ride home from work tomorrow night. The battery will be fully charged, and we'll see what happens on the way home.



 

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OK. That turned into a total waste of time. The Y cable essentially made no difference in the run time before the red indication on the one light. I think it may have extended it by about 1-2 minutes tops. I'm not sure if it would be any better with the larger gauge of wire right from the connector at the battery pack. As I mentioned I am still saddled with about 1" of the small gauge of wire as the connectors are molded to the wire. So the resistance would certainly be reduced (shorter resistor, less resistance) by my mod, but maybe not enough.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Tonight, I ran my dual MS's on the bars. I ran them on the second to the brightest setting since I can hardly tell the difference between that and full bright. Anyway, they were on green until about 35 minutes when one started a weird little flicker red/green. That went on for a little bit then one would turn red, then the other... but one was red and one was green. THAT went on till about an hour when I put them on full for some DH trails. I don't know exactly when they both turned red, but they stayed red for the next 45 minutes but were still very bright.

So I ran mine for an hour on one step down from full, then another 45 minutes at full and they were fine.

BTW, these two on the bars plus a TridenX on the helmet is a significant amount of light!
 

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ballbuster
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Chart here:

BlownCivic said:
I don't know if my battery is dodgy or not but when I run 2 lights on the bars with the Y-cable from Geoman, I get the red indicator on one of the lights after only about 30-35 minutes of riding, and the other usually follows about 10 minutes later. Someone elsewhere has suggested that the gauge of the wire in the Y cable is too small to carry the current necessary to supply 2 lights on high from the MagicShine battery pack, and the lights are detecting a voltage drop that is interpreted as the battery getting discharged.

I'm going to build an new Y-cable using the connectors from the existing cable, and some larger gauge wire to test my theory. I'll let you know in a couple of days what the outcome is. Any electrical engineers have some input of what AWG wire would be appropriate? Each light draws about 1.5 amps on high, and the battery pack is about 8.4 volts fully charged, so what's that for 2 lights on high, about 25 watts? Cable run of about 4"? I only need to replace the section that goes between the Y and the battery pack.
http://wiki.xtronics.com/index.php/Wire-Gauge_Ampacity

even with 22ga wire (I would guess it's 20ga or bigger) you're good for 5 amps current draw. 22 ga is really small. CAT3 telephone wire is usually 22ga.
 
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