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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So I'm getting back into this after a 6-year layoff. Decided to build a bike from scratch as I have no usable parts anymore. Anyway, thought I'd share my list and get a little feedback. I've bought the frame and fork and am about to buy everything else tonight/tomorrow.

frame: Niner MCR (root beer, medium)
fork: manitou minute 29er 100mm
headset: cane creek 110
stem : race face evolve
handlebar: easton EC70
grips: ESI chunky
seatpost: thomson elite
seat: WTB Rocket V Race
seat collar: DKG
wheels: stans flow with ZTR hubs 20mm TA
brake levers: avid speed dial 7
brakes: avid bb7
shifter: shimano xt 3x9 M770
front derailleur: shimano xt m770
rear derailleur: shimano xt m770 SGS
crankset: shimano slx m660
chain: shimano xtr 9 speed 7701
rear cassette: shimano xt 9 speed m770 11-32
cables: shimano xtr brake/shifter cables
pedals: shimano m540

I don't think I'm a weight weenie but I am an engineer so of course I kept track of the spec'd weights and it added up to ~23 lbs.

I think the only thing I'm a little unsure of is the stem, as far as angle/length, and brand. Also the Shimano specs are hard to navigate but it seems like the m770 is the correct front derailleur for this frame?

Oh, also trying to decide on the Crest vs Arch rims. I get the weight/strength tradeoff but its harder because they are the same price. I'm 6', about 190 right now.

edit: change handlebar, wheelset
 

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Ride,Smile, Pedal Damn it
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Welcome back. Bike looks similar to my build. Although,I have a EMD. I really like it a lot. Building it is half the fun. Well not 1/2, but a lot of fun anyway. Enjoy
 

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I think that the Crests are only rated for a rider weight of 180 lbs.

The rest of the build looks pretty sweet.
 

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Looks like a good build. I'm a little curious though, why spend all that money on the drivetrain, but go with mechanical disc brakes? Why not go hydraulic? Lastly, 23lbs might be a little optimistic, you don't have tires on the list, plus little things like all sorts of bolts, tubes or sealant, skewers, grips add up. I'm thinking more along the lines of 26ish lbs. Remember, tires alone are going to add 2.5 lbs minimum, probably more though.
 

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Straz85 said:
I'm a little curious though, why spend all that money on the drivetrain, but go with mechanical disc brakes? Why not go hydraulic?
A lot of people here favour mechanical discs over hydraulic for reliability. It certainly annoys me having to bleed my brakes constantly!

Looks a good build though tomcraw, looking forward to seeing pics.
 

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Looks an excellent build, except for the rims. Are you planning on racing, if not why those lightweights instead of the Flows? I'd say entire build looks great, but go with the Flows for a nice wide footprint and the knowledge that when you're banging that rear wheel into all those rocks that you won't have to worry about it. As to the stem, if you're unsure of length and rise, then just find some low end OEM take offs for next to nothing and buy a few different lengths, try them and once you figure what you like/want then buy the Thomson to suit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Actually the 23 lbs includes tires, but not the other ancillary items. I think it would be at least a year before I would think about a race - I just want to get back in riding shape and enjoy the outdoors in Austin.

I guess I was looking at the crest/arch from a more pure rotational weight viewpoint. It's a harder decision because they are all the same price (looking at the wheelsets at r2technik), although it seems I can rule out the crests due to my weight. I will have to think about the flows.

At this point I've ordered everything but the wheelset, headset, stem, tires, seat collar.
 

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Missouri sucks...
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Few thoughts/suggestions:

1) Go with Flows, Blunts, Semis, LaserDisc, etc. Wider rims are heavier, BUT, they make the ride so much smoother and you get better traction out of your tires. It's crazy that they're only a few mm wider but make that big of a difference. Look for a rim that has a wide internal width, not external width. 24+ internal width is my minimum. The Blunt is the lightest "wide" rim but it's also the weakest. It's not a noodle, the others are simply stronger.

2) I don't know what your budget is like but you can save about $100 and get the same performance by going Cane Creek S3/Salsa Liplock instead of Chris King/Thomson headset and seatpost clamp. If money is no biggie, then by all means:)

3) Maybe drop down to an SLX front der. and hop up to XTR in the back. The new SLX derailleurs have made the XT stuff obsolete in my book. Cheaper, performs just as well, looks good and weight is so close, you can't hardly tell the difference.

4) Replace those heavy SLX chainrings/bolts with Middleburns, Blackspires, etc. The SLX rings are HEAVY! The crankarms/BB are actually quite light. You can shave quite a bit of weight off just by getting lighter rings/bolts;)

5) Lastly, go with a 15mm/20mm thru axle front end. It's a future standard in the making and makes a huge difference in stiffness. It may mean buying adapters for bike racks, slightly slower wheel removal and a few more grams of weight but the huge advantage of your fork tracking straight and the added stiffness are worth it on the trail. You're an engineer. Which is stiffer when it comes to holding your fork stanchions and wheel in place: a 15mm ROD or a 5mm noodle???
 

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Fart smeller
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dogthomson said:
A lot of people here favour mechanical discs over hydraulic for reliability. It certainly annoys me having to bleed my brakes constantly!
Huh? Don't know what kind of brakes you have, but I have a 6-month old bike with Tektro brakes that, aside from changing the pads once, I haven't had to bleed. My 2 other bikes w/ Hayes brakes are rarely touched, bleed-wise. Maybe you need a better set?
 

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Short-Change-Hero
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For the BB7 and Rocket V keep your eye on chainlove. The BB7s popped up a bunch last week as did the Rocket V. Actually think the BB7s were up yesterday for $35/ea. Looks like it should be a nice build for you and agree with everyone else that you should go with something a bit wider/heavier for rims.

Just happened to be looking at BlueSkyCycling and look what is back in the combos again!!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
DFYFZX said:
Few thoughts/suggestions:
5) Lastly, go with a 15mm/20mm thru axle front end. It's a future standard in the making and makes a huge difference in stiffness. It may mean buying adapters for bike racks, slightly slower wheel removal and a few more grams of weight but the huge advantage of your fork tracking straight and the added stiffness are worth it on the trail. You're an engineer. Which is stiffer when it comes to holding your fork stanchions and wheel in place: a 15mm ROD or a 5mm noodle???
I thought the Stans ZTR was 15mm, and there is an option for a 20mm? Or is the normal one 5mm?
 

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tomcraw said:
I thought the Stans ZTR was 15mm, and there is an option for a 20mm? Or is the normal one 5mm?
I think they're convertible to whatever you want but you have to, more importantly, buy the proper fork before you worry about wheels:thumbsup:
 

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Straz85 said:
Looks like a good build. I'm a little curious though, why spend all that money on the drivetrain, but go with mechanical disc brakes? Why not go hydraulic? Lastly, 23lbs might be a little optimistic, you don't have tires on the list, plus little things like all sorts of bolts, tubes or sealant, skewers, grips add up. I'm thinking more along the lines of 26ish lbs. Remember, tires alone are going to add 2.5 lbs minimum, probably more though.
Agreed. My MCR with Hope hubs and Arch rims has come out to ba around 27 pounds with pedals. Granted, there are some fairly heavy lowend bits that I plan to replace over time, but I can't see it breaking the 26 pound barrier.
 

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Finch Platte said:
Huh? Don't know what kind of brakes you have, but I have a 6-month old bike with Tektro brakes that, aside from changing the pads once, I haven't had to bleed. My 2 other bikes w/ Hayes brakes are rarely touched, bleed-wise. Maybe you need a better set?
M775s, okay maybe 'constantly' was a slight exageration, but having to do them 2-3 times a year is too much for me!
 

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dogthomson said:
M775s, okay maybe 'constantly' was a slight exageration, but having to do them 2-3 times a year is too much for me!
That's still overkill unless they're leaking. I have heard Shimano brakes tend to leak in cold weather though, maybe that's why? I have used Hayes and Avids through a couple New England winters, never an issue.
 

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Straz85 said:
That's still overkill unless they're leaking. I have heard Shimano brakes tend to leak in cold weather though, maybe that's why? I have used Hayes and Avids through a couple New England winters, never an issue.
That could be it, I've never had a problem before. We have had a beastly winter this year though compared to previous years!
 

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DFYFZX said:
Few thoughts/suggestions:

1) Go with Flows, Blunts, Semis, LaserDisc, etc. Wider rims are heavier, BUT, they make the ride so much smoother and you get better traction out of your tires. It's crazy that they're only a few mm wider but make that big of a difference. Look for a rim that has a wide internal width, not external width. 24+ internal width is my minimum. The Blunt is the lightest "wide" rim but it's also the weakest. It's not a noodle, the others are simply stronger.
24+mm internal width is your minimum?

Hmmmm.....of those you suggested:

Flow - internal rim width of 22.6mm
Blunt - internal rim width of 21.6mm

I don't know the Semi or Laser internal widths, but I bet they are similar.

And the one everyone is trying to talk the OP out of....

Crest - internal rim width of 21mm
 

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BruceBrown said:
24+mm internal width is your minimum?

Hmmmm.....of those you suggested:

Flow - internal rim width of 22.6mm
Blunt - internal rim width of 21.6mm

I don't know the Semi or Laser internal widths, but I bet they are similar.

And the one everyone is trying to talk the OP out of....

Crest - internal rim width of 21mm
24mm is MY minimum:thumbsup: I'm not ever going smaller than Semis. I like the wide rims:D
 
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