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trail "cleaner"
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hoo ray... got her finished up today...
build is....
med. size frame.... weight 7.5 pounds. Total weight = 30.35 pds.
Hope Pro II arch wheelset with Panaracer Rampage (tubeless)
combo LX/XT/XTR drivetrain shifters
Hayes El Camino brakes 6" rear 7" front rotors
Thomson post with WTB Shadow Ti rails saddle
Syntace bar with FSA 90mm stem
Shimano pedals
Team Reba 20mm U-turn fork
Custom 'skid' plate for lower rocker as there are rocks aplenty here in AZ.
 

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Out there
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Very nice. Skidplate is cool.
 

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Very nice :thumbsup: What's the skid plate made off? If it's alu or some such metal I'd suggest you round of the corners just in case ;) Also with that RAW finish raw alu would match perfect and look factory :D Oh and FYI, you need to wrap the entire chainstay, not just the top, the bottom is where it actually hits the most and it also hits the seat stay.
 

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Out there
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Yeah, what Lynx said about the wrapping. Putting a tube round that sucker was the single best upgrade I made to my RIP9, bar none. Incredibly dramatic difference! Now whenever I see a buddy without a wrapped stay I immediately wrap it for them (I keep old tubes in my riding bag for exactly this) and they are always amazed at how much difference it makes. If you cut the tube in half lengthwise and wrap neatly it doesn't have to look too fat/ghetto.
 

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I'm working on my 09 RIP 9 build and have been wondering about guarding the chainstay. This is the first build I've seen that has some protection. What's the general concensus on Lizardskins?
 

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pinkheadedbug said:
Yeah, what Lynx said about the wrapping. Putting a tube round that sucker was the single best upgrade I made to my RIP9, bar none. Incredibly dramatic difference! .
I've never run a chainstay guard and thought they were solely a paint protection solution. Your post indicates that there's much more too it than that. I'm guessing that it's also a noise dampening solution as well? Please help me understand. Thanks.
 

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Out there
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You never realize how much clanking and rattling is going on until you wrap the chainstay with a tube. The bike suddenly becomes SILENT and as a result (totally psychological) feels strangely smooth and fast as you swoop stealthily through the woods.

I much prefer the tube to the skins personally, just feels more businesslike and I think it does a better job of cutting the noise. Don't know what anyone else thinks.
 

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Daniel the Dog
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Very pretty bike

Good on you! I am also interested in your cool skid plate. How did you make it? Oh, your chain looks too short.

Jaybo
 

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trail "cleaner"
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1,382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
chain stay protector and skid plate...

LyNx said:
Very nice :thumbsup: What's the skid plate made off? If it's alu or some such metal I'd suggest you round of the corners just in case ;) Also with that RAW finish raw alu would match perfect and look factory :D Oh and FYI, you need to wrap the entire chainstay, not just the top, the bottom is where it actually hits the most and it also hits the seat stay.
Hey all, thanks for the comments. 1st... the chainstay is protected top and bottom. I use some 1/2" Tygon tubing, split it and then press it on. one piece on top and another on the bottom of the chainstay and then zip tied... You can see it in the close up of the 'skid plate'. 2nd.. the skid plate is a piece of poly plastic cut to length. Then, holding it in my vice, use a heat gun to shape the bend. Once satisfied with the angle, spray cold water on it freeze in the shape. I will make it more visually appealing by rounding off the corners, but initially I was more after functionality vs. form;)
 

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The Other Dude
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Very nice, i am looking to add an extra bike to the XC/Trail bike stable here soon, its most likely going to be an EMD or an Air9 just due to the $$ factor, but seeing these new RIPS really makes me want to break the credit card out.
 

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trail "cleaner"
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
chain length...

Jaybo said:
Good on you! I am also interested in your cool skid plate. How did you make it? Oh, your chain looks too short.

Jaybo
I like my chains taut to prevent it from slapping the stays so much. Plus, I don't cross-shift big chainring to big cog.:nono:
 

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My thoughts...

1) Cateye Cloth Tape works killer and is cheap. Just cleanly wrap each end with electrical tape and voila` everythings quiet.

2) Run the propper chain length. String up your chain from Big Ring to Big Cog and pull it tight, therefore you won't rip your derailuer off or have too much chain.

3) When riding, use that Big Ring to keep the chain from slappin' so much. - Like Chopper say's : Harden the f**k up! :D
 

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GoCyco
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A while back someone posted pics of the beating the RIP chainstay took on the underside, right up near the crank. I wrapped my RIP as soon as I got it. I recommend doing the same.
 

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trail "cleaner"
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1,382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
shake down ride last Saturday...

Took the RIP out Saturday on its maiden journey. Rode the Hawes Trail system over to the NRA pit and back. There is something about C.V.A. :thumbsup: The bike just goes but is extremely compliant over the rocks. Almost a 'Caddy' type of ride. The frame is plenty stiff and carving turns was effortless. The front end stays planted easily on the climbs even with the Reba left at 120mm. Makes me think I should have just bought the straight up 120mm fork and not the U-turn... One thing to be concerned about if you decide to run 3 rings up front. On my LX 570 crankset using the one spacer on the drive side BB cup, the large chainring will actually hit the chainstay while stressing the frame laterally. So, off came the big ring and on went a bashguard. Plenty of clearance now. We'll see how long my '08 Sultan remains in my stable:skep:
 

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Nice, AZ! I took the RIP to Fruita this weekend and saw two other blue ones and two silvers as well. It was a mini RIP9 convention of sorts...all relatively new fans of the CVA design. It works really well, doesn't it? I run my fork at 120 as well. I used the 100 setting for a couple of rides and didn't like it.

I love the skidplate you made...great idea.
 

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AZmtncycler said:
One thing to be concerned about if you decide to run 3 rings up front. On my LX 570 crankset using the one spacer on the drive side BB cup, the large chainring will actually hit the chainstay while stressing the frame laterally. So, off came the big ring and on went a bashguard. Plenty of clearance now. We'll see how long my '08 Sultan remains in my stable:skep:
WOW:confused: Is this something a Clyde needs to worry about? How big of a guy are you? I really have my eye on this frame but if I can't run 3 rings up front that might be a deal breaker.
 

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trail "cleaner"
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1,382 Posts
Discussion Starter · #20 ·
not a big guy..

Bunyan said:
WOW:confused: Is this something a Clyde needs to worry about? How big of a guy are you? I really have my eye on this frame but if I can't run 3 rings up front that might be a deal breaker.
I run 160ish (with a camelbak....say 175). I think this clearance problem might be crank specific:confused: . This crankset runs a 50mm chainline. I would have thought this would be more than adequate.. I hope other '09 owners running three chainrings will chime in on their set up and clearance tolerances...
 
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