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My slx is working perfectly fine after a few thousand km and through the winter with salt and slush. Not used much offroad though, so they haven't been thrashed torque wise.

The intermittent ratcheting is the normal way of operation. They are only silent randomly when a combination of inertia and speed hits a sweet spot.

The falling apart confuses me entirely. You need to use a wrench to remove the end cap before you can attempt to remove the freehub body.
 

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The only other not-psyclence hub i've seen doesn't go silent intermittently, didn't start making a racket at 300 miles, and had that spacer.
This hub started creaking too, i found out. He lubed it like i did mine to cure it. Silent now.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
This hub started creaking too, i found out. He lubed it like i did mine to cure it. Silent now.
Good to hear. That worked temporarily for me, but my hubs had more that just the creaking issue. Have you had any problems with the toothed spacer that goes between the hubshell and freehub body? Mine were both chewed up, with missing and deformed teeth. Not surprising to me given they were delicate plastic bearing heavy pedaling load.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
My slx is working perfectly fine after a few thousand km and through the winter with salt and slush. Not used much offroad though, so they haven't been thrashed torque wise.

The intermittent ratcheting is the normal way of operation. They are only silent randomly when a combination of inertia and speed hits a sweet spot.

The falling apart confuses me entirely. You need to use a wrench to remove the end cap before you can attempt to remove the freehub body.
Glad yours is working well! I wonder if there is anything different in the internals of the slx hubs, I've only seen the insides of xt and xtr... But if it ain't broken, don't fix it!

I was pretty sure that the intermittent noise was normal.

Yeah, the falling apart was really strange. The cassettes are quite heavy, so if those c clips pop out the cassette is an effective slider hammer to pop the endcap off. The endcaps don't require much force to pull off, just like dt swiss ones.
 

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Good to hear. That worked temporarily for me, but my hubs had more that just the creaking issue. Have you had any problems with the toothed spacer that goes between the hubshell and freehub body? Mine were both chewed up, with missing and deformed teeth. Not surprising to me given they were delicate plastic bearing heavy pedaling load.
1307881d1579993313-shimano-scylence-information-slider.jpg

Are you talking about the part just to the right of the freehub body unit? I've never seen any damage to that. I think it just keeps the bits spaced evenly, it shouldn't be carrying a load?
 

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Glad yours is working well! I wonder if there is anything different in the internals of the slx hubs, I've only seen the insides of xt and xtr... But if it ain't broken, don't fix it!

I was pretty sure that the intermittent noise was normal.

Yeah, the falling apart was really strange. The cassettes are quite heavy, so if those c clips pop out the cassette is an effective slider hammer to pop the endcap off. The endcaps don't require much force to pull off, just like dt swiss ones.
The end caps don't just "pull" off like DT. They have to be turned with a wrench. Not threaded, but they do need a twist.
 

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Discussion Starter #27
The end caps don't just "pull" off like DT. They have to be turned with a wrench. Not threaded, but they do need a twist.
Huh, mine pull straight off. Maybe a difference between xt/xtr and slx? Mine actually has flat faces that prevent the end cap from turning once it's popped on, see the upper right of the photo that scottzg posted, post #25.
 

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Discussion Starter #28
View attachment 1337665

Are you talking about the part just to the right of the freehub body unit? I've never seen any damage to that. I think it just keeps the bits spaced evenly, it shouldn't be carrying a load?
Yes that's the one. You'd know if it was beat up the way mine was, couldn't put it back into place. I'm not sure it takes load, more of rocking as the the hub spline shift to engage, then unloading to allow freewheeling. Guess it's just mine. thanks for the reply!
 

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I think the xt and slx are basically identical except slx has a steel axle.
When the end cap does on, theres a little "plastic clip" inside that needs a twist to release. Its been a while since I took mine off (I modded mine to 135qr)
 

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Discussion Starter #30
The LBS finally got my wheel back from shimano warranty, 6.5 weeks later...(dang covid 19!) Much to my surprise, shimano included a generous care package. The orginal hub was fully rebuilt with a new freehub unit and new bearings, as well as including an extra freehub unit with all of the associated internal springs and spacers, and two pots of special grease. To top it all off, I even got a brand new cassette free of charge with nothing in the warranty about a cassette!!

By the looks of it, they've updated the plastic toothed spacer to a different type of plastic. Also included were very specific instructions on how to rebuild/what to grease to stop the creaking if it happens again. seems they've updated the service guidelines in light of the creaking issue, asking for grease to be used in very specific locations on the splines. They thought the last freehub unit locked on because part of the broken toothed spacer was inside the ratchet mechanism. I've included pictures of everything they sent me, as well as scans of the instructions in the link below(can't upload images straight to the forum for some reason).

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zfhD5wHDBE7yGV0gvOxdNJ9YEow9WI7r?usp=sharing
 

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The LBS finally got my wheel back from shimano warranty, 6.5 weeks later...(dang covid 19!) Much to my surprise, shimano included a generous care package. The orginal hub was fully rebuilt with a new freehub unit and new bearings, as well as including an extra freehub unit with all of the associated internal springs and spacers, and two pots of special grease. To top it all off, I even got a brand new cassette free of charge with nothing in the warranty about a cassette!!

By the looks of it, they've updated the plastic toothed spacer to a different type of plastic. Also included were very specific instructions on how to rebuild/what to grease to stop the creaking if it happens again. seems they've updated the service guidelines in light of the creaking issue, asking for grease to be used in very specific locations on the splines. They thought the last freehub unit locked on because part of the broken toothed spacer was inside the ratchet mechanism. I've included pictures of everything they sent me, as well as scans of the instructions in the link below(can't upload images straight to the forum for some reason).

https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1zfhD5wHDBE7yGV0gvOxdNJ9YEow9WI7r?usp=sharing
Very nice... you are lucky because that grease is still in very limited supply
 

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The actual ratchets (which you cant see unless you take it completely apart) are hardened steel. The plastic bit go between the engagement splines, which I think are just aluminium, and I assume where the creak comes from.

The way the hub works is that the helical spline pulls the ratchets apart and tries to keep them apart when coasting (this was the premise of the silence mechanism), and when pedalling it forces them together. Without the silence function, It Is in some ways like a king hub. Of course without the silence.

I wonder if some part inside the SLX hub is steel then, and less/not susceptible to this creak.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
The actual ratchets (which you cant see unless you take it completely apart) are hardened steel. The plastic bit go between the engagement splines, which I think are just aluminium, and I assume where the creak comes from.

The way the hub works is that the helical spline pulls the ratchets apart and tries to keep them apart when coasting (this was the premise of the silence mechanism), and when pedalling it forces them together. Without the silence function, It Is in some ways like a king hub. Of course without the silence.

I wonder if some part inside the SLX hub is steel then, and less/not susceptible to this creak.
I was wondering about that. The SLX hubshell splines are probably alloy, but maybe the freehub unit splines are steel? Not sure if that would help will creaking.
 

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Freehub is aluminium. Don't know if the splines are part of the freehub or an attached piece.

Is there any spot on the splines on either side with visible wear?
 

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Hmm, I guess theres 2 sliding interfaces. one is the helical spline, which is on the freehub and would be aluminium on all the hubs. this engages one steel ratchet side. the other steel ratchet side has straight splines and those engage the hub shell. So, its steel to aluminium on all interfaces.

I cant see any area where the slx would be different. Coatings maybe? different grade aluminium or steel? I mean, I wouldn't be surprised if the only difference between the hubs was the steel axle - maybe just the stiffness in that axle prevents this creaking?
 

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Hmm, I guess theres 2 sliding interfaces. one is the helical spline, which is on the freehub and would be aluminium on all the hubs. this engages one steel ratchet side. the other steel ratchet side has straight splines and those engage the hub shell. So, its steel to aluminium on all interfaces.

I cant see any area where the slx would be different. Coatings maybe? different grade aluminium or steel? I mean, I wouldn't be surprised if the only difference between the hubs was the steel axle - maybe just the stiffness in that axle prevents this creaking?
No visible wear. Based on the the document shimano sent me (post #30), it seems the sliding between the hub shell and freehub is what causes the creaking. The toothed spacer probably compresses over time, allowing for the some rocking or play. Add in grit and contamination to get creaking. I'd guess to make it work without the spacer would require much tighter tolerances when machining the splines, making it more expensive. Just another case of the bike industry cutting corners to hit a price point, passing on the problem to the consumer... especially the consumers who put big miles on their bikes.
 

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Well it will be less about precision, more about wear. the tighter fitting splines would probably cause more wear (they'd be in contact more). So probably not corner cutting, probably that setup worked best. DT has much finer spline teeth and they are all steel on both sides.

I saw a post about creaking in an 8110 hub and the guy said it was form the spring getting twisted, which he fixed and the creaking went away. Too many variables in these hubs I think. Ill just keep an eye on mine, it get lots of abuse, but not offroad.

My other micro spline hubs are Hope. They have their own flaws, but work well enough.
 

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Well it will be less about precision, more about wear. the tighter fitting splines would probably cause more wear (they'd be in contact more). So probably not corner cutting, probably that setup worked best. DT has much finer spline teeth and they are all steel on both sides.

I saw a post about creaking in an 8110 hub and the guy said it was form the spring getting twisted, which he fixed and the creaking went away. Too many variables in these hubs I think. Ill just keep an eye on mine, it get lots of abuse, but not offroad.

My other micro spline hubs are Hope. They have their own flaws, but work well enough.
Well I'm glad you posted all of this. Seems the M8000 XT is the way to go if going with Shimano. It's a shame the micro spline isn't working out as XT has always worked so well and been so durable.

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