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So my wife has a norco bigfoot vlt (e-bike... and yes it is a monster!).

Anyway, it has the new mulefut 80 sl’s, with the larger triangular cutaways. The damn thing just keeps going flat. First in the rear... then it was re-taped twice (gorilla tape). Now the front is going (as is the rear again). My feeling is that the liner (the part you see through the rim holes) seems insufficient in strength for the size of the holes, as they bulge out... and that is where the many many leaks develop around most of the rim.

Yup... i have pumped, rolled, shaked, pumped, rolled, shaked... they just eventually fail.

I can ride on them... but the slow leaks get you overnight. Then they become many large leaks and repeat.

Never have i had such fuss from a tubeless tire, let alone fatbike tire. We have two norco ithequas that have the old mulefults and i would pump them up maybe twice a season. They were bulletproof.

Wtf? Any tips? Using stans.
 

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**** can the gorilla tape and use some Sun Ringle, Kapton, Zip or some other tape that is less permeable than gorilla and is full width to run up the side of the rim into the bead seats.

Clean the rim with some alcohol and then stretch the tape tight while taping. I put the wheel in the bike and then use a velcro strap to keep the brake lever depressed. It holds the wheel nice and firm. You can use a stand or flip the bike over on it's bars and saddle.
 

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Just finished about the 20th pair of Mulefuts (old style) with shrink wrap. Still under $20. Jumbo Jims 4.8 and 4.4. set up with floor pump.
 

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Fat and bouncy
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When I converted my DT2250 wheels that have a similar cut out pattern I spent a while roughing up the surface before applying the tape. I used 75mm wide adhesive tape from a building supply store. (I've used this for all my tubeless conversions).
I think the secret is that the tape is wide enough so it's trapped between the rim and tyre bead.
I only run one loop of tape with approximately 3 inches of overlap.
 

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**** can the gorilla tape and use some Sun Ringle, Kapton, Zip or some other tape that is less permeable than gorilla and is full width to run up the side of the rim into the bead seats.

Clean the rim with some alcohol and then stretch the tape tight while taping. I put the wheel in the bike and then use a velcro strap to keep the brake lever depressed. It holds the wheel nice and firm. You can use a stand or flip the bike over on it's bars and saddle.
This, and then /thread.
 

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**** can the gorilla tape and use some Sun Ringle, Kapton, Zip or some other tape that is less permeable than gorilla and is full width to run up the side of the rim into the bead seats.

Clean the rim with some alcohol and then stretch the tape tight while taping. I put the wheel in the bike and then use a velcro strap to keep the brake lever depressed. It holds the wheel nice and firm. You can use a stand or flip the bike over on it's bars and saddle.
And be totally anal about cleaning the rim, take your time and get that sucker clean as the day it was made, then wipe it down with any good solvent, let it dissipate, then put the Sun Ringle tape on. I like it, (Sun Ringle tape, because it WORKS) because after both my LBS's did tires for me that leaked (one eventually getting better, only needing air once every 2 weeks, the other other every other day) the next time I decided to do it myself. Guess what, my first attempt, and now over a month later, no further air needed. Same rims you have.
 

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This, and then /thread.
Only thing I'd add is those rims have multiple drain hole sites, (rather than just at valve hole and rim seam like normal) and those hols have been often drilled maddeningly close to the rim edge, making getting them fully taped over, a royal PITA.

I've had luck with small bits of thinner actual tubeless tape (forget Gorilla tape, it sucks) first on those sites, then what BlueCheesehead said...
 

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use the proper SunRingle strips and tape for a bomber setup
 

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use the proper SunRingle strips and tape for a bomber setup
This^^^
The one thing I add to this setup is to put a few wraps of light but strong packing tape over the rim strip, far enough up on the side channels that it has something to grip too, but not far enough up into the beadlock channel to interfere with the tubeless tape in the beadlock area. I feel that this adds some non-stretchy support to the layer of mulefut tape. I don't get the cutout bulges this way that deforms and pulls on the tubeless tape, and could pull the tape away from the bead seal area. The added wraps weigh next to nothing, and if put down tight and clean, do not interfere with tubeless tape layup.
 

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I messed with gorilla tape and it sucked. The OEM tape from Sun Ringle works but you gotta pull it super tight and make sure it's laying perfectly flat. I had to redo one with the Sun Ringle tape but now they're both holding great, just like if they had tubes
 
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