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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am a new member. I just upgraded from a 2010 Specialized Hardrock Sport that I originally purchased to ride around my neighborhood with my children when they were young teens to a 2019 Giant Fathom 29 2 (I purchased a 2018 Giant Contend SL 2 Disc road bike last year, so I was familiar with the brand's bang for the buck). I talked my girlfriend into purchasing a Giant Tempt 2 (I have to break her in slowly because neither of us are spring chickens :) ), so I needed to purchase a new bike rack. I already own a Saris Bones 3 that I used to move my Contend and Hardrock last summer, but I cannot fathom having to install and remove that bike rack every time we want to ride, so I decided to have a hitch installed on my car. I was researching hitch-mounted racks when I discovered 1UP via this forum. I placed my order today for a 1-bike rack plus a 1-bike add-on. I am still suffering from sticker shock, but I am a buy once, cry once kind of guy. All racks have compromises, but the 1UP appears to have the fewest.
 

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Bikesexual
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Excellent choice! You will be very happy with that decision.

Something like a rack should be a one time purchase, crashes/stolen asides.

Did you get their lock?
 

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A good rack is a worthwhile purchase. I spent the $ on a decent roof rack when I got my car 7 years ago, and would change it for nothing!

Sent from my Moto G (5) Plus using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Well, I have to give 1UP kudos for fast shipping. I placed my order on Tuesday. The base rack and add-on were in my hands on Friday.

With that said, I installed the rack on my 2016 Mazda 6 today. While the rack fits, it is a tight fit in the stowed position with the Curt Class 1 hitch. There is only about a half of an inch gap between the arm on the tray closest to the car when in the stowed position, and that is only because that part of the arm fits into a recess on the bottom of the bumper cover. My suggestion to 1UP is to offer a version of the 1.25" base rack with an extended stinger. Class 1 hitches are used primarily on passenger vehicles. They tend to be recessed farther away from the bumper than they are on SUVs and crossovers in order to make them look less intrusive. Another inch of stinger after the ball should do it.

Base rack arm clearance (top view)
Jewellery Metal Gemstone Silver Natural material


Base rack arm clearance (bottom view)
Metal Aluminium Silver Steel Daylighting


Add-on rack arm clearance
Glass Fixture Metal Gas Aluminium


Gaps as seen from the side (it is a tight fit)
Road surface Automotive exterior Asphalt Glass Windshield


Distance to the center of the base rack tray
Yellow Line Metal Iron Steel
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yes, sadly, my setup is barely squeaking out 2" two inches behind the ball. They need to offer a 1.25" version with an extended stinger. I am willing to bet that this rack will not fit on many sedans that have Class 1 hitches when inserted at even the minimum depth. The only saving grave is that there is zero forward play in the rack when in the stowed upright position. However, I am certain that that will change as the rack ages.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The DrawTite is even further recessed from the bumper than the Curt. The hitch pin hole is 6.5" from the bumper on the DrawTite and 5" on the Curt. I am certain that newer Mazda 6s are not unique in this regard. I do not know what Curt and DrawTite were thinking when they designed these two class 1 hitches. The reality is that anyone who is putting a hitch on a vehicle is putting a hitch on a vehicle. I could use a receiver extension, but that is worse than having the bike rack so close to the car.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
As I assumed, the Mazda 6 is not the only car that is a tight fit with the rack stowed in the full upright position. The gap between the 1UP and the Lexus in this video appears to be just as tight as it is on my Mazda 6. The guy in the video mentions that some people cannot stow the rack in the full upright position due to clearance issues.

 

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since 4/10/2009
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One thing that sucks about Class I receivers in this sense is that you CAN'T use them with stinger extensions because there's a little stop welded inside the receiver that prevents you from inserting one deep enough to fit. IIRC, Class II hitches can use extensions, and the ultimate reason is one of tongue weight capacity.

I personally won't use a 1 1/4" receiver because the smaller size allows racks to wobble more.

I'm a big fan of the Torklift Ecohitches. Have a Stealth model on my wife's Subaru that uses the bumper cutout (only hitch at the time that actually used it - even the factory hitch didn't use the bumper cutout, weird). In addition to a bike rack, we have a small camper that we tow with it.

Looks like Torklift makes 3 different ones that would work for OP's car.

https://torkliftcentral.com/select-ecohitch-style?vid=3117

They're expensive, sure, but I'd buy another no question. Sad they don't make one for my Honda Fit's year of manufacture.
 
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