I always run at least two calculators, if I get the same result I'm more comfortable that I haven't made an input error. It's a little more complicated with rims with offset drilling, which I prefer. Here are a couple:
Spoke length calculator for wheelbuilders
https://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/
I prefer to measure the ERD myself, using the method in Roger Musson's Wheelpro book (and a couple of cut spokes with nipples crimped in place). This method measures to the end of the spokes (bottom of the nipple slot), not the inside of the rim, so I might expect to get a number 1-2mm longer than the manufacturer. I usually use 14mm nipples (for carbon rims anyway, 12mm is fine for aluminum) and round down to the nearest 2mm, unless within 0.5mm and I might round up. Don't use silly spokes (less than 1.8mm middles or bladed). Do use good stress-relieving techniques and a tensiometer.
With the results you got I would use 292 for RF and LR, 290 for LF and RR. When you start with all nipples threaded on about equally your dish should also be pretty close (over-dished in this case).
Spoke length calculator for wheelbuilders
https://www.kstoerz.com/freespoke/
I prefer to measure the ERD myself, using the method in Roger Musson's Wheelpro book (and a couple of cut spokes with nipples crimped in place). This method measures to the end of the spokes (bottom of the nipple slot), not the inside of the rim, so I might expect to get a number 1-2mm longer than the manufacturer. I usually use 14mm nipples (for carbon rims anyway, 12mm is fine for aluminum) and round down to the nearest 2mm, unless within 0.5mm and I might round up. Don't use silly spokes (less than 1.8mm middles or bladed). Do use good stress-relieving techniques and a tensiometer.
With the results you got I would use 292 for RF and LR, 290 for LF and RR. When you start with all nipples threaded on about equally your dish should also be pretty close (over-dished in this case).
