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I'm considering getting a spider based power meter for my mountain bike, anyone have any issues with using one? Mainly I'm worried about smacking the chainring on rocks/logs, etc and breaking a $500 part. I'm pretty much a "wheels on the ground" type of rider, but I do still smack my chainring every now and then.

Should I get a stages crankarm based one instead?
 

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I used to use SRAM ROAD - SIGEYI SHOP on my road bike. It was ok when I had them. Maybe measured 2% lower compared to my Tacx Neo? Power numbers were consistent so I was pretty happy with the performance.

Go for Quarq if you need 100% accuracy and reliability.

But again, only used it on my road bike so your mileage may vary.
 

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I use a Sigeyi on my MTB. I've thought of the possibility of chainring strikes being bad, but I can't say I ever encounter it, even pre-power-meter. I do have a bash guard on my trail bike, so if I swap the meter to that bike, then I don't have to worry about it. When it's on the XC race bike, then I don't ride trails gnarly enough to worry either.
 

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Another moment for me to morn the loss of the Cinch PM :cry:

Should I get a stages crankarm based one instead?
Now that I seem to have figured out the issue with my Stages (won't communicate with my Fenix watch), they seem to be a reasonable option. I have a 4iiii on my XC bike and haven't had a problem yet.

If my current Cinch is dead (haven't had time to try the warranty process), then I will be replacing mine with the NG Eco. I have a bash guard on that bike so I am not worried about it. I don't know if I have ever hit the chainring on my XC bike.

I'm looking at the Stages but since my left leg is much weaker than my right (also a reason I want one) I need the dual-sided one which is super pricey. That is what I would get
I only run left sided power meters on all my bikes. There is no reason to care that one leg is stronger than the other unless you get a dual sided and now you must know that on everything.
 

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I have a power2max Ngeco on my hardtail and a really old Quarq riken on my cyclocross. The quarq just works, no issues over several seasons other than the occasional battery change. The Ngeco has a rubber cover for the battery that I don't think is so good, I have had water come in there so the battery rusted, the Quarqs battery holder works better for me. I have had a Stages carbon gxp (gen 3) during the summer but it consistenly showed about 10% too high average compared to the other two meters, it was caused by small dropouts between the Stages and the Garmin 830 that I use.

If I buy another one it will be a Quarq even though it is a little bit more expensive than the other ones. Not having to think about if the data is correct or not is worth a lot to me. As for the left/right power I agree with Sidewalk, I think it is difficult to do anything about it anyway, but if you have a large inbalance it would probably make sense to use the same type of power meter on all bikes. One downside with Quarq and Power2max is that 32t is the minimum chain ring size, for stage races with a lot of climbing I sometimes use a 30t to save the legs for the following days.
 

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Another moment for me to morn the loss of the Cinch PM :cry:


Now that I seem to have figured out the issue with my Stages (won't communicate with my Fenix watch), they seem to be a reasonable option. I have a 4iiii on my XC bike and haven't had a problem yet.

If my current Cinch is dead (haven't had time to try the warranty process), then I will be replacing mine with the NG Eco. I have a bash guard on that bike so I am not worried about it. I don't know if I have ever hit the chainring on my XC bike.


I only run left sided power meters on all my bikes. There is no reason to care that one leg is stronger than the other unless you get a dual sided and now you must know that on everything.
I don’t know why the Cinch didn’t catch on. I have it on a few bikes, and needed it for my Oiz because there wasn’t enough clearance on the chainstay for the Quarq. But I’ve also warrantied, I think, 2 of the Cinches. It was really easy, and the guy I worked with at RF was great.

My latest cinch gripe, although I haven’t narrowed it down to exactly the cinch, is that if it goes to sleep while I’m still tracking (like stopping at a cafe), then it does this weird linear ramp power spike up to some arbitrary power, and then goes back to normal upon waling up. So sometimes in my workout file I’ll have a spike that goes from 0 to 2,000 watts, going up by like 6w each second.
 

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I have experience with both Stages NDS, on XT, and 4iiii NDS, on X01 carbon, power meters on mountain bikes. I initially had a lot of issues with the 4iiii power meter Podium (rechargeable battery within unit), and had to warranty it multiple times. 4iiii swapped it out for a Precision (watch battery) on the 4th time over 2 years ago and it has been flawless since. The Stages has been used throughout summer and winter with no issues. I have hammered both crank arms into rocks/logs, they have been crashed, and ridden in -20 degrees C weather with no issues other than mentioned above.
 

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I don’t know why the Cinch didn’t catch on. I have it on a few bikes, and needed it for my Oiz because there wasn’t enough clearance on the chainstay for the Quarq. But I’ve also warrantied, I think, 2 of the Cinches. It was really easy, and the guy I worked with at RF was great.

My latest cinch gripe, although I haven’t narrowed it down to exactly the cinch, is that if it goes to sleep while I’m still tracking (like stopping at a cafe), then it does this weird linear ramp power spike up to some arbitrary power, and then goes back to normal upon waling up. So sometimes in my workout file I’ll have a spike that goes from 0 to 2,000 watts, going up by like 6w each second.
My Cinch relatively recently started going to sleep, and not waking up. I was having to plug it in before every ride to turn it on (charge was fine, just turn on). It was getting annoying, but not enough for me to do anything about. But it just started to not report power, or nearly none, just cadence. I am hoping I get a warranty replacement. It is my favorite PM out of the four I have. Next closest is the Garmin Vector. Perfect on my enduro with Turbine cranks, but also worked great on my F-Si as Cannondale used the same interface.
 

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Left arm 4iiii Precision XT on the MTB (swapped between single speed, gravel and full suss) and Precision 105 on the road bike.
No issues so far although auto zero would be nice...
 

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I would recommend against left side-only power meters. It is not uncommon to have a left/right leg imbalance and so that theoretical 2% margin of error becomes a lot bigger.

Had no problems with multiple generations of Quarq over the years. The Stages I've used were pretty reliable too although older generations tended to have a bug that caused them to consume battery life very quickly.

You're worried about pedal strikes, but I'd really recommend the Assioma Favero with Xpedo hack--it's just about as accurate as an SRM for a fraction of the cost.

Having a dual-sided power meter also allows you to see your L/R imbalance and potentially do something about it, like 1-legged drills. If you're going to have a power meter, it might as well be accurate, you'll want to rely upon the numbers to guage your hard work.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I would recommend against left side-only power meters. It is not uncommon to have a left/right leg imbalance and so that theoretical 2% margin of error becomes a lot bigger.

Had no problems with multiple generations of Quarq over the years. The Stages I've used were pretty reliable too although older generations tended to have a bug that caused them to consume battery life very quickly.

You're worried about pedal strikes, but I'd really recommend the Assioma Favero with Xpedo hack--it's just about as accurate as an SRM for a fraction of the cost.

Having a dual-sided power meter also allows you to see your L/R imbalance and potentially do something about it, like 1-legged drills. If you're going to have a power meter, it might as well be accurate, you'll want to rely upon the numbers to guage your hard work.
Yeah, I am a little hesitant about the left-only power meters. I've got a history of knee issues on my left side and my latest bike fit put my cleats in an assymetrical configuration to address it. With that said, I've got a power2max on my road/gravel bike right now and its fairly even per that power meter's analysis. If I'm going to do drills though, it'll be with that bike and not my mtb.

And no way I'm going with pedal based power for the mtb. I smack my pedals just about every ride. I haven't hit my chainring in a month or two, but I do live right outside Pisgah so downed trees and rock drops are a thing. As long as a quarq or a P2M can take me knocking it every now and then, I think I'll be okay.
 

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Yeah, I am a little hesitant about the left-only power meters. I've got a history of knee issues on my left side and my latest bike fit put my cleats in an assymetrical configuration to address it. With that said, I've got a power2max on my road/gravel bike right now and its fairly even per that power meter's analysis. If I'm going to do drills though, it'll be with that bike and not my mtb.
Single sided power meter work great as long as that is all you use. The problem is when you use different power meters on different bikes. On my gravel bike I have dual sided Rotor PM and on my road and MTBs I have stages. The numbers on the Rotor are significantly higher, makes me think I have made some serious gains every time I hop on my gravel bike.

Interestingly, my right and left balance depends on the my shoes. With mountain bike shoes I am left leg dominant, with road shoes I am right leg dominant. I think it has to do with cleat placement, because of some Achilles issues I run my MTB cleats really far back, but I am neutral on the road bike.
 
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