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Recovering couch patato
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Would an otherwise identical Mag brake be better than Al? Stiffer perhaps?
 

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No Justice = No Peace
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Damn those are ugly.

The Mrazeks look like some kid made em in his gargage.

I'm sure they will look cool on your bike, though......
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Do you know if they use a linear spring like Avid or Shimano and what their length is (the aluminum version anyways)?
 

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detailed pic....

eurorider said:
Do you know if they use a linear spring like Avid or Shimano and what their length is (the aluminum version anyways)?
setup is a mess and just like back in the old days of cantilever brakes....
 

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I'm gonna have to disagree with Nino here... I currently use these brakes and absolutely love them! They are easy to set up and even easier to dial-in. Unclamping for tire removal is a cinch too. The brakes are very stiff and measure 100mm from center of canti stud. I've used many of today's v-brakes including Vueltas, FRM, and Avid MAG's and can honestly say that I prefer the Mrazek's to any of 'em.
 

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well...

jakeplazma said:
I'm gonna have to disagree with Nino here... I currently use these brakes and absolutely love them! They are easy to set up and even easier to dial-in. Unclamping for tire removal is a cinch too. The brakes are very stiff and measure 100mm from center of canti stud. I've used many of today's v-brakes including Vueltas, FRM, and Avid MAG's and can honestly say that I prefer the Mrazek's to any of 'em.
well - you have to use 2 different tools to adjust spring tension. just like in the old days of canti-brakes. to me that's no easy setup.
tire removal is a pain with tires measuring 2.1" and up because they need to be deflated to get the wheel out. at least that's what other Mrazek users tell.
100mm is 2mm shorter than XTR and AVID, 9mm shorter than the Vueltas.
 

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winner !

We have a winner!
Buyed this brake today, very nice machined Tune brake. Very rare item. I thought Tune has made this model for only one year. Don't know why they stopped making it.

 

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Nino

I'm not sure what you mean when you say there are two different tools to adjust the spring tension... There's one adjustment per arm just like any other v-brake. The only difference is that you use a socket or crescent wrench for the adjusting. Also, my RR's are 2.1 and I never have to deflate them for removal (used a RR 2.25 too with absolutely no issues). In fact, once you release the cable the arms seem to open wider than most V's because when spreading the arms outward they aren't limited by the springs lack of movement... They actually spread out much further than the springs do. I hope that makes sense! :p

Someone brought up a good point in another forum though... No bushing or bearings which means you'll have to clean them more often than other V's.
 

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jakeplazma said:
I'm not sure what you mean when you say there are two different tools to adjust the spring tension... There's one adjustment per arm just like any other v-brake. The only difference is that you use a socket or crescent wrench for the adjusting.
...but you also need to release the allen key brake fixing bolt and do it up again when you have set the tension with your spanner, hence two tools as opposed to the single allen key adjustment of a normal V. Not that I can ever remember this being a major problem, compared to the faff involved in aligning studded pads!
 

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I like the look. Kind of a utilitarian/industrial look. I'm still holding out for the Extralites though. They will be available next month and will make all other V's obsolete IMO.
 

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chris m said:
...but you also need to release the allen key brake fixing bolt and do it up again when you have set the tension with your spanner, hence two tools as opposed to the single allen key adjustment of a normal V. Not that I can ever remember this being a major problem, compared to the faff involved in aligning studded pads!
Actually, if i'm understanding you clearly that's not correct. You don't have to loosen the cani-bolt first... Just the opposite! You tighten the canti-bolt first then you adjust the spring tensioner. Works for me... But, don't take my word for it, just read Mrazek's install instructions.

I do have a question though. Most v-brakes have bushings or bearings but these don't. Now I haven't had any issues due to the lack of them but, what are the benefits of having bushings/bearings? After running the Mrazeks for a while I can't see any reason for even having bushings/bearings.
 

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jakeplazma said:
Actually, if i'm understanding you clearly that's not correct. You don't have to loosen the cani-bolt first... Just the opposite! You tighten the canti-bolt first then you adjust the spring tensioner. Works for me... But, don't take my word for it, just read Mrazek's install instructions.

I do have a question though. Most v-brakes have bushings or bearings but these don't. Now I haven't had any issues due to the lack of them but, what are the benefits of having bushings/bearings? After running the Mrazeks for a while I can't see any reason for even having bushings/bearings.
If I understand you correctly, the Mrazeks pivot sans bushing/bearing on the canti stud. Do they have a seal to keep out water and dirt from infiltrating the canti stud/arm interface? As I understand it, with the bushing system the arms don't actually pivot on the studs. The pivoting happens in the bushing/bearing/arm itself. It really doesn't matter that the studs get gunked up on this system 'cause all the movement happens in the sealed bearing/bushing within the arm.
 

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does anyone know a mrazek dealer in EU?
i know i can buy them directly from mrazek and i have it as an last way to get them. I prefer to buy in EU 'cause i don't have to pay duty and extra taxes as i have to with everything i buy from US.
 
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