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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have seen photos of the cable above and below the shock bridge.

I understand the better position is below the bridge. Idiot me has them running on top. Never even noticed before:D .

If there is no objection I will move them under;). Correct ?~?
 

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I don't think it really makes a big difference really....

I run both my F & R der. cables below the top-tube but above the shock linkage x-brace. I think I may be the only one who runs my f. der inside the linkage- I've never had any problems with it and it looks sano. Haven't even needed to change my F. der. cable or housing yet, in the year I've owned the bike.

I run the rear brake hose and gravity dropper cable housing below the shock linkage x-brace, above the shock. This is just so I can swap brakes/ seatposts without having to disassemble the linkage or brakes if I want to swap parts with my other bike.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
FM said:
I don't think it really makes a big difference really....

I run both my F & R der. cables below the top-tube but above the shock linkage x-brace. I think I may be the only one who runs my f. der inside the linkage- I've never had any problems with it and it looks sano. Haven't even needed to change my F. der. cable or housing yet, in the year I've owned the bike.

I run the rear brake hose and gravity dropper cable housing below the shock linkage x-brace, above the shock. This is just so I can swap brakes/ seatposts without having to disassemble the linkage or brakes if I want to swap parts with my other bike.
Thanks mate.

I also run my front D cable inside the linkage as well to keep it clean. It's a bit squishy but my fronts shift so nice.
 

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Cable Routing Issues

I ran them under due to the shifting problems that occurred due to the suss going into action. I'm glad to hear that others have run them above and have had no issues. Do you have any pics of the FD running internally?
 

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Dominator,

Where did you get the cable guides shown on in your photos? That appears to be a good way to route the cables. FWIW Titus literature shows the cables over the shock and under the bridge. I have tried it both ways and don't see much difference in performance but do have a little more slack in the cable/hoses than is really necessary for a clean mounting.
 

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MM,
The cable guides are actually Full Metal Jacket Guides from Sram. Dulyber did it with an older model FMJ and the direction of the guide holes were parallel to the ziptie slots. The newer models are perpindicular so I had to modify them. Luckily, FOX left the perfect slot on the bottom of the shock for this. I trimmed the FMJ Guides to fit together, they are made of a soft plastic compound, and sliced them so I didn't have to remove cables or lines and BAM it worked perfectly. No more shifting problems and or slack problems.
 

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I rigged up something similar...

I rigged up something similar...

While dominator's set-up is slicker than mine, you can do something similar if you get some of those black plastic clips that come on Shimano brakes (they came on some XT brakes) These clips are supposed to be clamped on the bolts that hold the caliper or caliper adapter bracket to the frame/shock. Anyway I had a coupe of extra ones, zip-tied two of them together and then put a zip tie on each to the middle swing link piece. The nice thing about them is that you can pry them open to pop the cables in but they don't pop out (well I don't know for sure because I have not ridden it yet). I will have to smooth the internals of the piece because it is notched to grap the head of the caliper bolts.
I will try to get a picture that will explain what I am blabbing about.
 

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Mountain_Man said:
FWIW Titus literature shows the cables over the shock and under the bridge.
That seems to be how most people do it, but I have to say that I don't find it ideal. Although perfect when the shock is extended, it bows out like crazy at full compression. It's going to rub. I would like to run those two outside the linkage.
 

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I used to get all sorts of horrible cable bowing when the shock was compressed and the cables ran over the swing link bridge. I think I may have even got some ghost shifting

Now I run cables zip tied to the bridge by using two zip ties, one tied to the bridge the other running 90 degrees through the first tie, which holds the cable.

I thought the cables would rub on the shock but they don't and the cables don't bow.

I also notice that the new ML2s have a couple of extra cable guides at the top of the swingarm, so they don't need to zip tie on extra hose guides like us ML owners.
 

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Compressed Shock Picture

This isn't the best picture but for some reason when the shock is compressed the cables crossand stay within the frame!? :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Dominator13 said:
This isn't the best picture but for some reason when the shock is compressed the cables crossand stay within the frame!? :thumbsup:
and the bowing doesn't look bad at all. Any significant rubbing from the cable on the edges of the chainstay on derailleur side ?~? What would happen if you tied the D cable at the location right at the edge in the photos ?~?
 

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Dominator13, that's a really neat way of sorting the cable routing issue out. Might give that one a go myself.

If you try mounting a couple of hose guides at the top of the swingarm it might help. It looks like you might get a bit of rub on the seat tube otherwise?
 

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Sweet, I'll try your method out. I still have some FMJ guides around somewhere. . .

I've been looking for the Jagwire CC115-9, which is just a simple S-shape housing holder which might also work without attaching to anything but two housings.

Jagwire also has some alloy stick-on guides that look interesting, but they'd probably be too tight for this location.
 

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I looked into all of them...

The Jagwire CC115-9 doesn't work very well due to the attachment issues. The other Jagwire clips would attach nicely, if trimmed down, but they are too close to the shock for me. The Zipties on the bridge is the easiest and quickest way and seem to work just fine. The nice thing about the routing that I use is that the freedom of the cable allows it to expand inside the frame, as shown. As far as fastening down the RD cable, I tried it and didn't like the action that happened when the shock compressed. It would do the "bow out" thing. Once again, I had to modify the FMJ cable guides. They are easy to cut with a razor knife. I trimmed the sides to fit in the slot and then cut the tabs so they would fit together. Finally, I sliced the (2) holes on the inner side and slipped the cables in and whala a fix.
 

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A picture is worth a thousand words...

I finally got some pics to show what I was trying to describe below.

eman2 said:
I rigged up something similar...

While dominator's set-up is slicker than mine, you can do something similar if you get some of those black plastic clips that come on Shimano brakes (they came on some XT brakes) These clips are supposed to be clamped on the bolts that hold the caliper or caliper adapter bracket to the frame/shock. Anyway I had a coupe of extra ones, zip-tied two of them together and then put a zip tie on each to the middle swing link piece. The nice thing about them is that you can pry them open to pop the cables in but they don't pop out (well I don't know for sure because I have not ridden it yet). I will have to smooth the internals of the piece because it is notched to grap the head of the caliper bolts.
I will try to get a picture that will explain what I am blabbing about.
 

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how long is the length of the cable housing in the middle (running from shock pivot till the connector at seatstay)? is there any standard length?

as my RD cable in the middle is quite long now, and bowing out when the shock is compressed.

i think routing under the bridge will eliminate the cable rubbing / grinding on the frame, which i read on the other thread.
 

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I am watching the mechanic routing my rear derailleur. Although I showed him the cable routing from Titus catalog (this is not the Titus dealer), he purposely routed it out of the bridge & explained to me his technical reasoning (mid cage r/d, bend, shock compression, etc, etc). In short: safety goes first (tho I have no idea what safety hes talking about)
As for the rubbing, there will be some protector tape.
Enlightenment, please?..
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
paneristi said:
I am watching the mechanic routing my rear derailleur. Although I showed him the cable routing from Titus catalog (this is not the Titus dealer), he purposely routed it out of the bridge & explained to me his technical reasoning (mid cage r/d, bend, shock compression, etc, etc). In short: safety goes first (tho I have no idea what safety hes talking about)
As for the rubbing, there will be some protector tape.
Enlightenment, please?..
I like the mid-cage D !~! I had mine over the bridge and ended up putting it under. I like it there best. Out of the bridge... photo please :) But, I just put on a coil shock and left it under but it's tight there now !~! All I learned is to use lots of frame protection as I'm a second class twit at cable routing (I have more than a few shiny patches:D on my frame). Keeping cables short helps the flex but I run full length housings and it always seems to bring extra length back when it flexes....

want Enlightenment eh ?~? ....

 

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All Mountain said:
I like the mid-cage D !~! I had mine over the bridge and ended up putting it under. I like it there best. Out of the bridge... photo please :) But, I just put on a coil shock and left it under but it's tight there now !~! All I learned is to use lots of frame protection as I'm a second class twit at cable routing (I have more than a few shiny patches:D on my frame). Keeping cables short helps the flex but I run full length housings and it always seems to bring extra length back when it flexes....

want Enlightenment eh ?~? ....
Just now he said something like "live cable" (whatever it is), the shock during compression will let no room for the cable, etc, etc.
Unfortunately my phone has no camera
Will take picture if possible tonite :)
 
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