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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Looking for some feedback on the best way to route the cables. I am trying to minimize frame cable rub. I am running Avid BB7's. The brake levers and derailleurs are the regular setup - front derailleur/front brake on the left and rear brake/rear derailleur on the right. I realize the rear brake cable is way too long.

I am going to be changing the cables so that is why I am asking. Show pics if you can.
Should the cables be crossed?

Also, the current way the rear brake cable is routed through the linkage which I have not had a problem with. The rear derailleur cable is currently not routed through the linkage.

Thanks for input
 

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Nice looking bike! I have one on the way, I don't own a ML currently so I can't offer much insight yet. I do notice that people run cables in a variety of ways on the ML, and I'm not quite sure why titus didn't make the cable stops farther apart, but I can live with that.

I am curious, why not run all housing through the links? Does that make for too tight a bend for the front. der. housing? Or cramp the housing at full compression? Does it make a difference if you run them through the upper linkage opening as opposed to the lower? I've been wondering about all this.

Otherwise, my general cable-routing rules (Ex mechanic)
when possible, run the f.der. housing around the r side of the head tube, and use the stops on the right side.
run the rear der. housing around the left side, and use the left stops. cross the housing back over to the right behind the seat tube. Run the brakes in the center.

The idea behind this is to maximize the radius of all bends in der. cable housing, to reduce friction. It also gets you around having to cross exposed cables.

I generally swing my bars in the opposite direction when running my housing, then add 2" or so, so that the cables are as short as possible but still allow rthe bars to do almost a full 180 in even of a crash.

Hope that helps!

eman2 said:
Looking for some feedback on the best way to route the cables. I am trying to minimize frame cable rub. I am running Avid BB7's. The brake levers and derailleurs are the regular setup - front derailleur/front brake on the left and rear brake/rear derailleur on the right. I realize the rear brake cable is way too long.

I am going to be changing the cables so that is why I am asking. Show pics if you can.
Should the cables be crossed?

Also, the current way the rear brake cable is routed through the linkage which I have not had a problem with. The rear derailleur cable is currently not routed through the linkage.

Thanks for input
 

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JagWire

I routed my cables exactly like the picture on the Titusti.com site. I used Jagwire tubetops (3G version) by the headtube, one right under the top tube where the fd cable needs to come out and then again just before the fd cable stop on the seat tube.

It was working fine, but I noticed that under my weight, the cables would bow out and rub the linkage so I got a pack of these. They were actually from YPK not Jagwire, but it was great because they came in a pack of 3. I used one on my fork for the brake hose, and the other two near the top of the seatstays. This keeps the cables straight even when I'm bouncing around on the bike keeping the cables off the powder coat and linkage.
 

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Ditto what FM says, get those shifter housings around the headtube. You can also zip tie the rear brake and Front Der housings together - makes it nice and tidy.
Also shorten the loop on your FD housing where it goes to the seat tube stop. With the FD you can get away with tighter turns.
I run everything except the FD through the linkage, it will rub through the ano though so I used a couple of pre glued patches on the link.
 

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Alternative cable routing for ML '05

I was wondering whether it would be better to route the rear der. and rear brake housings above the cylindrical cross-brace inside the swing link, rather than below it as per titusti.com.
My Goodridge rear brake housing sometimes gets pinched between the seat tube and the seatstay (my brake and rear der. housings are run below the swing link cross-brace)
I've fixed that by fixing the brake housing with two zip-ties on the left seatstay just behind the seat tube but will probably move the housings above the cross brace and/or glue/ziptie a hose guide onto the seatstay just behind the downtube.
I find that the rear der. and rear brake housings bow out a lot to to one side too as the rear shock compresses. I've zip tied the housings together above the shock shaft before but that didn't seem to work that well.

My LBS initially routed my rear der. and rear brake housings on the outside of the swing link (on either side) using zip ties but this was not ideal. My housings are probably too long, but not keen to bleed my brakes...

The attached pics are courtesy of Red Barn bicycles www.redbarnbicycles.com and Titus www.titusti.com
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Thanks for the info and pics

Thanks for the info. I did not even think to check out chad's website for pics. I have experienced a bit of ghostshifting with the current rear derailleur cable routing - so I will definately shorten that up and go through the upper part of the link as shown in the bike build pics from chad. I will do the rear brake through the upper link as well. I also think I will re-route the front brake line to the front of the fork crown instead of behind it -- that should help to almost elimate any front brake cable rub on the headtube.

So with the rear derailleur and rear brake - run them on the left side, run the rear derailleur on the left outside and the rear brake in the middle and then after the rear-most stop under the top tube cross the housings so to get the rear derailleur housing back on the right side of the bike and the brake back on the left. Maybe I should just flip the two so I don't have to cross the housings? I'll have to play with it a bit before I cut anything final.

Thanks for the input.

Ed
 
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