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Head Tube Angle

I measured the hta
at 71.5, maybe 72 degrees. According to Espen's geometry chart it should be 69.5. I will be really dissapointed if the angle is close to what I measured. My method is far from perfect, but side by side with my 69.5 degree Tallboy this is much steeper. I used an angle finding app.
 

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My comp came in as well today. Got it assembled with no issues. Mid Atlantic is kinda have a mini monsoon at the moment so I only got about 10min of riding in but that was enough to test the basics. Cant get it to shift onto the 44t crank. Played with adjustments for about 20min and still no luck. It will shift fine when on the stand but stops working when im riding it. Rear break is kinda spongy and pulls all the way back to the grip. Thinking it needs to be bleed but i dont have the stuff to bleed it at home so I may have to the let LBS do that one for me. 17" Comp weighed in at about 36.4ish lbs on a bathroom scale. Weighed my Walgoose that ive been riding for the past 6ish years while I was at it. 34.2 lbs for the walgoose so at least the new bike isnt really a weight difference for me. Ride was a little bit rough during the quick trip i took. Thinking I need to play with tire pressure some as there was very little squish to the tires out of the box. Handling is def different. Low speed balance is def awesome but i need to get used to the pull back from the front tire when turning at higher speeds. I am def very happy with my purchase. Cant remember the last time i had a giant smile on my face riding around in 60 degree rainy weather. Got a few more things to pick up for it this weekend and then I will try to get some pics posted and hopefully this damn rain will stop so I can get some riding in.
 

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More on the Elite- I'm helping ApexRider put his together.

Some additional weights:

Rear wheel sans tire/ tube- this is with the boat anchor of a cassette (an easy place to lose some additional weight): 5lbs 6oz
View attachment 838305

Front wheel sans tire/ tube: 4lbs 7oz
View attachment 838306

Stock VeeRubber Mission Tires: 1520 gr. (Both weighed exactly the same- I can't imagine the tread pattern on these tires being good for much of anything other than concrete/ commuting- maybe hard pack sand?)
View attachment 838307

Stock Tubes: 460 gr.
View attachment 838308

On-One Floaters: 1450 gr.
View attachment 838309

QTubes Superlight 26x2.4-2.75 tubes: 230 gr.
View attachment 838310

I worked in bike shops for over 10 years starting in the late 80's and have been consistently been working on all kinds of bikes since- some 20+ years overall and have probably changed thousands upon thousands of tires/ tubes. Getting tires on and off of this front rim ranks among the most difficult I've ever encountered- even compared to some of the old British standards (that were far from standardized). I HIGHLY recommend trying to set this front rim up tubeless. There is no deep center channel, and with the tight fit, any tire should air up/ seat pretty quickly/ easily as long as you do a good job sealing up over those holes. Trying to replace a tube on the trail (even worse, in the snow) would SUUUUUCK.

View attachment 838311

Brakes didn't need a bleed and just a quick adjustment on the calipers to have them dialed. Front rotor was a bit out of true, I assume from shipping, but an easy fix. Rear derailleur's limit screws were off, but nothing major and an easy/ quick fix.

That's it for now. Tonight, I'll be pulling the BB and headset to make sure they're well greased for inclement weather. I'll post again if there's anything pertinent that comes up.

Congratulations to everyone who pulled the trigger on these. You could put $500 into one of these bikes (carbon fork, lighter cassette...) and have something that competes nicely with a beargrease for still less than half the cost. Or just ride the crap out of them as they are :)
Alshead, what's up with that old Burton snowboard?
 

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Now, can anybody confirm the seatpost size on the black one?
The marking on the seatpost of my Elite says 30.9. I don't have a caliper, but by measuring the circumference and dividing by pi, that seems very close to the correct diameter. It is a FSA SL-280, which appears to come in 27.2, 30.9 or 31.6 diameter. Easy mistake, I guess?
Other than that, has anyone else noticed the handlebars are ridiculously wide? I didn't really think much about it until I tried to carry the assembled bike up my stairs and I realized that 740mm is longer than the outer diameter of the tires! Maybe I've just been hiding under a rock for too long, but the bars on my MTB are 5" narrower.
I think that I will be replacing the seat (this one says nothing but "Velo"), handlebars and grips very soon. I also have some lighter tubes on order, and we'll see about the tires come winter. As it is, though, this is a very good bike for the money. I managed to take one loop around the trails near my house before closing time, and it was quite enjoyable. Seems like a solid build, and at 5'11" I'm glad I got the 19" frame. It has a taller standover than my 26" MTB which is just fine, and the reach is nearly identical. It feels very comfortable.
 

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The front brake caliper hits the spokes when turning to the right. Espen mentioned this earlier in the thread and said all you have to do is shim the rotor out a little bit.
I had the same issue with my 17" Comp. The true is a bit off.

Other than that, somebody screwed up with running the shifters and brake levers. They were twisted fierce, and I need to take them off and run them myself, but the handlebars need some lubricant to get off, which I'll get to at a later date.
 

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Other than that, has anyone else noticed the handlebars are ridiculously wide? I didn't really think much about it until I tried to carry the assembled bike up my stairs and I realized that 740mm is longer than the outer diameter of the tires! Maybe I've just been hiding under a rock for too long, but the bars on my MTB are 5" narrower.
Its a common thing with fat bikes and most new FS trail bikes are going wider. I put 780 bars on my moonlander. The wider bars help with leverage to wrestle the big tires around taking into consideration you actually use them where they were built for - mud, sand, and snow.
 

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I received my Fantom FB4 Elite yesterday. I'm new to fatbikes, but a long time cyclist. I was aware of the risks of BD and mail order (though have never ordered a BD or mail order bike before). I give BD kudos on a number of fronts:

- packing was excellent - really secure
- pre-assembly was reasonably well done - per other posters, the handlebars were inverted, but part of me thinks it was intentional to keep the stem from scratching the frame
- communication was really well done - followed the link to the tracking number, knew my wife missed the pickup, folllowed the link to redirect and picked it up at UPS.
- fit and finish is pretty damn good. If I could rewind I'd probably do the comp - not sure the $200 upgrade really mattered much, but I liked the black on green...
- brakes, shifting - everything was pretty much perfect out of the box - shifts very clean, braking is amazing.

So - riding a fat bike. Wasn't really sure what to expect as I had not ridden one. Notable feelings:

1) tire pressure it came with (~12 lbs?) was too high for my tastes. I lowered to about 6 lbs and now it rides like the bouncy, shock absorbing bike I wanted.
2) It doesn't "feel" heavy despite weighing approx 35.8 lbs on my bathroom scale.
3) at 6 lbs pressure it floats over trail nuisances that annoy me on my cross bike - rocks, roots, twigs virtually disappear. I rolled over a 2" diameter branch and didn't even feel it. My bumpy trail ride now feels like a smooth cruise. It is sort of like a big old cadillac - you lose some sensitivity, but gain comfort
4) It keeps momentum: on loose gravel and grass it doesn't bog down like my cross bike
5) it handles well on the loose stuff - can take corners in gravel better than my cross bike
6) It oversteers - probably due to A) longer frame and B) low tire pressure and C) large wide front rim leaving a low pressure tire "square" it definitely pulls when you set it on edge. I suspect a snowshovel or Lou 4.7 or 4.8 tire would help. Its not a big deal though

Upgrades.... It is pretty complete. Like others though I ordered Q tubes because 1lb of rotational energy for a few bucks is worth it. I'm also probably going to get a pair of carbon bars - the 740MM bars seem absurdly wide to me and I can probably save almost a 1/2 lb for a pair of china carbons at $23 on ebay. Only other change I read about was the cassette - I'm not certain but it appears this cassette weighs in at about 450 grams, and could be replaced with a 260 gram cog for relatively low cost.

Oh, one watch out... I'm 5'11 and I have the seat post about 1/4" past "max" and could probably use another 1/4 inch on the 17" bike - wish I had bought the 19" in hindsight.

Hope that helps, and Oh, and many thanks to Espen W whose insider knowledge has been a pleasure to read.
 

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Bicycle tire Wheel Bicycle wheel Bicycle wheel rim Bicycle frame


First ever post (if done right it has a pic attached). I am wondering about the oversteer along with a couple of other folks. Seems more than it should be.... but this is my first fat bike, so I might be 'up in the night'. Nevertheless I would appreciate comments from anyone who figures out how to reduce oversteer on the bike.

I am no expert but I get the feeling the front tire is further forward decreasing the trail and making the bike want to climb/pull/oversteer into the corners or unlevel ground. With that thought I looked at some pictures on the internet and it seems the Moto front wheel axel is more forward than the bikes Espen W is building.... Might be nothing but wanted to hear if anyone had some insight.

Thanks again to Espen W - information has been top rate.

Cheers
 

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On the oversteer thing, I have very limited time on fatbikes, but I have a loaner Pugsley I have been using this week. I'm not sure I'd call it oversteer, but on the Pugs, I definitely feel like the wheel grabs more into turns and when you have it up to speed it resists handlebar input due to all that weight and the gyroscopic effect. The strange thing is that when you lean into the bike it turns really nicely. To me its about using that gyro to your benefit by leaning rather than fighting it with the handlebars.

I don't think you can expect a fat bike to react the same as a skinny tired bike, there's way more weight in the wheels and way more traction too.
 

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I agree oversteer may not be the correct term.... the bike pulls into the turn or uphill on when on unlevel ground (side hilling). I hope it is the tire - has anyone else tried the bike with other front tires and improved handling characteristics?
 

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Did we ever get confirmation on the seatpost diameter? Hopefully its 30.9.
As best I could, yes. 30.9 is one of the diameters listed for this model, and it is what is marked on the post. My best circumference measurement calculates to very close to 31mm diameter, so without someone with a caliper chiming in, that's the best you'll probably get.
 

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the bike pulls into the turn or uphill on when on unlevel ground (side hilling).
Interesting. The way you describe it, that does sound like oversteer. I actually experienced understeer in that when going into turns at what seemed like an appropriate speed I had to slow down and correct to keep from going off the outside of the turn. This is my first fatbike, though, so I attributed it to the bike being bigger and heavier than what I'm used to. I did just go with the 12psi in my tires to experiment down to what feels good, though. I'll go with less next time.
 

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Thanks for the recap. I'm supposed to get my Elite in November. I'm glad I got the Large now, I'm on the borderline too, but with long legs. I have a longer post if I need it. Did we ever get confirmation on the seatpost diameter? Hopefully its 30.9.
Definitely 30.9 x 350. Confirmed with caliper measurement.

I got the 17" (Medium). I'm 5'10"+ with long legs and short torso. The max mark leaves 100mm to the end of the post. At max extension on the post, I am 25-30mm short from my road bike extension.

I did a similar fit on my FS bike. With my short torso, I don't like the extra stretch in the top tube if I up-size to a 19". I think sizing for top tube is more important since you have a wider range of adjustment in the seat height.

I also like the extra standover height I get from the smaller frame. I will just get a 400mm post to gain some seat height and be right where I need to be for leg extension.
 
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