I think that different types of bodies tend toward different cadences.
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I've been spinning higher cadences for years. Yes your legs work more at lower RPM and that is why I've been doing a lot of force workouts since starting this season. At first I couldn't stand 80 RPM for 10 minutes, now I can go for much longer, probably around 40 minutes at around 105% FTP non-stop.LightMiner said:
I wonder why you think it takes time to adapt to higher cadences but you beleive one doesn't adapt to lower cadences...
With that said I'm pretty sure I'll set myself on a higher cadence for technical sections & climbs while going for a lower cadence on the flats.
One must also keep in mind that at 95 RPM, when time comes to bridge or keep up with an attack, you will need to shift to keep up. If you are at a lower cadence, you can simply raise your cadence. The bigger the gear, the bigger the difference in power output when you raise cadence. Personally this is a weakness. As I said, I spin a higher cadence climbing so when I reach the top of the hill I outspin my gear and must shift, often losing ground. I'll see if I cannot shift earlier to get a better acceleration over the hill top.
So, no, high cadence isn't the holy grail... nothing is except versatility and even then I'm not sure.
P.S. You need to work on force if you can't keep a lower cadence for more than 10 minutes
I agree with lightminer...of course your going to make better power at a lower cadence and lower heart rate but the problem is at the end of the race your legs will be dead..Our bodies are built to push those high cadences for much longer than low onesPissedOffCil said:I've been spinning higher cadences for years. Yes your legs work more at lower RPM and that is why I've been doing a lot of force workouts since starting this season. At first I couldn't stand 80 RPM for 10 minutes, now I can go for much longer, probably around 40 minutes at around 105% FTP non-stop.
I wonder why you think it takes time to adapt to higher cadences but you beleive one doesn't adapt to lower cadences...
With that said I'm pretty sure I'll set myself on a higher cadence for technical sections & climbs while going for a lower cadence on the flats.
One must also keep in mind that at 95 RPM, when time comes to bridge or keep up with an attack, you will need to shift to keep up. If you are at a lower cadence, you can simply raise your cadence. The bigger the gear, the bigger the difference in power output when you raise cadence. Personally this is a weakness. As I said, I spin a higher cadence climbing so when I reach the top of the hill I outspin my gear and must shift, often losing ground. I'll see if I cannot shift earlier to get a better acceleration over the hill top.
So, no, high cadence isn't the holy grail... nothing is except versatility and even then I'm not sure.
P.S. You need to work on force if you can't keep a lower cadence for more than 10 minutes
Also depending on gearing you should be able to spin up another 10-20 rpm before shifting to answer an attack...do what you want but for most high cadence is much more efficient
Different people tend to have their own optimal pedalling cadence and climbing style. Typically you'll find that you're more likely to pedal at a higher cadence on the flat than when climbing where pedalling cadence often drops.
Pedalling cadence isn't really a one size fits all thing where you should aim for one optimal cadence. There's a lot of individual variation. To an extent you'll find that you "self select" your own optimal pedalling cadence automatically based on feel.
If you're doing long climbs then maintaining a higher cadence in a lower gear is often worthwhile because it's less taxing over extended periods than grinding up in a big gear. If you're doing short sharp climbs then staying on top of a big gear at lower cadence may be the best option. Lots of downshifts (especially between front chainrings) can cause you to lose all your momentum at the base of the climb, slowing you down significantly compared to if you had stayed in a higher gear.
Pedalling cadence isn't really a one size fits all thing where you should aim for one optimal cadence. There's a lot of individual variation. To an extent you'll find that you "self select" your own optimal pedalling cadence automatically based on feel.
If you're doing long climbs then maintaining a higher cadence in a lower gear is often worthwhile because it's less taxing over extended periods than grinding up in a big gear. If you're doing short sharp climbs then staying on top of a big gear at lower cadence may be the best option. Lots of downshifts (especially between front chainrings) can cause you to lose all your momentum at the base of the climb, slowing you down significantly compared to if you had stayed in a higher gear.
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