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The Duuude, man...
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3,537 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Only 2 things stand in the way of glory:

1) LBS taking now over 3 weeks to build wheels
2) Moots Seatpost -- worked for 45 minutes trying to get saddle on post, but to no avail, apparently they made it freakin' impossible to get it on there, very pissed off at post.

Here's the progress I made today:

















 

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Appalachian Singletrack'n
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1,444 Posts
2 Cents on the post

There is a hint in the reviews on the Moots post that I found very helpful. Take the bolts out and put them in backwards. Slip pennies between the the top and bottom of the clamp so the backwards screws have something to push on. Screw the crews in about all the way and the clamp will open up real wide and make saddle installation a ton easier.

The frame looks sweet, Ti everywhere!!!! Post a shot of your tire clearance when it's built please.
 

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A hopped on pop.
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1,397 Posts
wow!!!

that's freakin beautiful!!! great parts laying around too!!!

hey, ive got a airborne ti post, it has the same type of clamp. Like Endomaniac said, just thread the bolt in from the opposite end, and place a penny (or nickel or two, depending on how much spread you need) and thread the screws against the coins 'til you get enough spread to get the rails in. once you get it in, forgettaboutit!!!!

you can also use a set of snap ring pliers (these are very useful in alot of fork rebuilds) to spread the clamp.

also, be sure to anti-seize the bolts.

and, get a new shop. 3 weeks to build wheels??? that's nonsense. did you get the frame from the same shop???

sweet frame man...well worth the wait, i'm sure.

cheers!

Endomaniac said:
There is a hint in the reviews on the Moots post that I found very helpful. Take the bolts out and put them in backwards. Slip pennies between the the top and bottom of the clamp so the backwards screws have something to push on. Screw the crews in about all the way and the clamp will open up real wide and make saddle installation a ton easier.

The frame looks sweet, Ti everywhere!!!! Post a shot of your tire clearance when it's built please.
 

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ncj01 said:
Only 2 things stand in the way of glory:

2) Moots Seatpost -- worked for 45 minutes trying to get saddle on post, but to no avail, apparently they made it freakin' impossible to get it on there, very pissed off at post.
Just pry that sucka open... it won't hurt it. I have that post on my road bike and it's a PITA to change the seat out, but just crank it open and don't worry cuz you won't break it.
 

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Uhhhhh...
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2,894 Posts
ncj01 said:
Only 2 things stand in the way of glory:

1) LBS taking now over 3 weeks to build wheels
Dude, sorry about the wheels. I have no idea why it's taking so damn long, but if you want or don't know i'll find out tomorrow for you. If i could build wheels i'd do it for you for free when i wasn't working.

-TS
 

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The Duuude, man...
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3,537 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
TheSherpa said:
Dude, sorry about the wheels. I have no idea why it's taking so damn long, but if you want or don't know i'll find out tomorrow for you. If i could build wheels i'd do it for you for free when i wasn't working.

-TS
Don't worry about it, don't say anything....I didn't buy the hubs there, nor the frame, so I don't want to go in there comando....

RE: bending that clamp open: I thought about going ahead and doing that, but was worried I'd hurt it or something...I about lost control and went TNT/Marcelus Wallace with a pair pliars and a blow torch, but thought better of it and settled down at the last minute...I'll try the opposite direction bolt thread in against a penny approach...should open it up gently and in a controled fashion....it's a puzzle, like trying to get a ring offf of welded together horseshoes...if'n ya know what I mean...
 

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A hopped on pop.
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1,397 Posts
hmmmm....

ncj01 said:
like trying to get a ring offf of welded together horseshoes...if'n ya know what I mean...
must be an arkansas thing. :D

be patient, you'll get that saddle in.
 

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Uhhhhh...
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2,894 Posts
Oh i thought i saw the hubs come in cuz i was drooling all over em but i guess not. We've been swamped lately too, damn little kids come in and buy BMX bikes like M&Ms, built 4 the other day. Did you just get the frame direct from Moots?

-TS
 

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Premium Member
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518 Posts
Finished yet??....

Curious if you've had a chance to install a rear wheel w/ rubber on it. And if so, how's the tire clearance look? Thinking long and hard about a Mooto-X especially if I could squeeze one of the new 2.3 WTB's later this fall/winter when they come out. Thanks for the reply.
 

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The Duuude, man...
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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Alta825 said:
Curious if you've had a chance to install a rear wheel w/ rubber on it. And if so, how's the tire clearance look? Thinking long and hard about a Mooto-X especially if I could squeeze one of the new 2.3 WTB's later this fall/winter when they come out. Thanks for the reply.
I did go ahead and put my disc wheels with cyclocross tires on there just to get the bike standing up. I am quite certain there won't be any clearance issues. Thier early pre-production prototype (circa 2001) model had trouble with clearance, but the new production ones are issue free...of course I don't know if that means you can run not-yet-produced-big-DH tires on there or not....personally, I'm a hold-out that beleives large meats have no place on a 29er, so it's kindof a wash for me...I'll not run anything larger than a Nanoraptor.

I'm literally just waiting on the V-brake wheels. Which by the way, I spent a few hrs in the shop the other day and laced them up myself, which was my first time, and I have to admit rather satisfying. I cut my own spokes, etc.etc. I needed some pretty detailed instruction on the first wheel, but the 2nd I did by myself. Now I'm literally waiting for them to be tensioned and trued, which I don't think I can just "learn" in an hour at the shop. I went 15g straight DT spokes, brass nips, 3 cross, and it's a 32H wheelset. Finaly weight on the digital gram scales (no skewers or rim tape):

Front: 956
Rear: 1095

Pretty hefty, but hopefully strong, stiff, and true.
 

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interseted in your eval of the rear sus.

nate, that looks real nice as do most all of your pics!

i may be all wet here but i heard tell that the X-YBB's rear tends to boing back at the rider to the point of throwing them over the bars, apparently no damping is the issue.

also heard the ybb sleeve can plain wear out.

interested in others comments and especially your ride assesment.

that's why I went with the dean duke design even though it meant making a freakish looking frame to fit the freakin shock between the seat tube and wheel!

btw, now have many miles on my dean duke 29er and it is one awesome bike. anyone want to buy a large santa cruz blur kiddie bike?
I never ride the thing anymore!
 

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Are those stickers? Nice bike! But for the $

The best Moots can do is a sticker? Why canti's and disc? Sweet ride and I hope you get your wheels soon.
Wade
 

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What do you weigh?

For some reason I recall you being clyde-esque. The only reason I asked is that when I called Moots re a 29er Mooto X they told me that the soft-tail suspension maxed out just north of 200# leaving it a non-option for a 240# guy like myself.

As for the post - the frame is Ti, and its a softail, just get Thomson bits...I mean, how much smoother ride do you need. I know, sacriligeous.

Sean
 
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