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Mongoose Jasper 24 inch fat bike at Costco Canada

7855 Views 29 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  brentos
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It seems I forgot to cross post the breakdown review of the Mongoose Jasper 24 inch wheel fat bikes being sold at Costco this year which I wrote 3 weeks ago in the Ottawa Moutain Bike Association page. How silly of me...

You can find the geometry info on the Mongoose USA website (look for the Argus Trail 24 under kids fat bikes, its basically the same bike aside from significant component and drivetrain differences meant to drop the price by more than half). Alloy frame/steel fork, drilled single-wall alloy 95mm internal width rims, 24 x 4.0 chaoyang tires, 1x7 FW drivetrain with too big a chainring so like the Northrock XC00's needs a drivetrain improvement but there's basically no alternatives in Canada at the moment for short adults and youths for economical fat bike options. Hub dropout spacing is 190/135 so the wheels could always be rebuilt with a cassette rear hub for better gearing options, and alloy 24inch fat forks can be ordered from aliexpress.

Edit with extra info from after it arrived....

- Okay, out of the box with all the stock parts/accessories its just under 38 pounds. Frame size is 12 inches and the effective horizontal toptube length is 21.2 inches, with a 25.75 inch standover height so probably ideal for someone with an inseam around 28 inches. .

- the 24 inch drilled alloy rims are the same 95mm internal width that the 26 inch Mongoose Argus Trail, Argus Sport and Dolomite ALX get and any tire inflated on them is likely to measure greater than the claimed size (not that there are a lot of tire options in 24 inch fats).

- The stock fork is 3.5 pounds of steel, and has clearance for tires up to about 4.5 inches wide, and frame will clear that also. Not that any brands that I can think of offer such a thing, though there is the option if you have another front wheel to put a 26 inch fat fork on it, to turn it into a sorta fat mullet bike. Steerer tube is a straight 1 1/8 diameter and the frame is 44mm headset cups top and bottom.

- The handlebar, seatpost and crankset are steel. The 152mm length crankset weighs 1098 grams including crank bolts and dust caps and has a 36T ring, the 31.6 x 300mm post is 430 grams, and the 650mm width handlebar is 628 grams. I intended to replace all these parts with among other things, the stock alloy 650mm bar from a Northrock XCF, the 34T narrow-wide ring 155mm arm prowheel SqTaper crankset from the same XCF, and a 300 x 31.6 alloy seatpost from one of the 26er Mongoose fats I've been upgrading. Right there I'm saving about 750 grams off the bike.

- The tires ARE ChaoYang BigDaddy 24x4.0 and I haven't as yet bothered to weigh them since its not as if i have anything different to replace them with to even need to know that information (but the CY website claims 1400 grams for the 30TPI 24 x 4.0 wire-bead).

- The stock BB is caged ball bearings and steel cups with a steel axle. The BB shell of the frame is a non-standard 112mm so its not easily upgraded to a cartridge BB or anything external (you might make a 100mm BSA external bearing crankset for 190/197 chainline fit but you'd need 8mm of extra axle spacers to do it). Worse though is the fact the stock BB cups are unsealed where the axle sticks thru so a few good puddles, rainstorms or one garden hose and the little grease inside is coming right out. Easiest solution is to replace the stock cups with a set that have sealed ends and then pack in enough grease to not need to worry about it for at least a year (the ones I've got are even a half ounce lighter than the stock ones).

- The headset is a sealed caged ball bearing unit, but the bikes are assembled with barely any grease on their bearings. Same goes with the stock BB, no grease and the threads of the cups/BB shell weren't greased either. Hubs have the usual factory dollop of grease inside and are a bit better in that regard. I suggest dropping the fork out and then adding a healthy amount of waterproof bearing grease.

- Stock stem is a 70mm x 7 degree extension, alloy, and quite light (119 grams) with a 31.8 bar clamp. For a youth this might be too long and you might want to use a 50 or 60mm stem.

- stock pedals are adult foot sized plastic cheapos and I'm putting on some youth foot sized alloy flat pedals instead.

- Stock 7sp 14-28T freewheel is unbranded and weighs 497 grams. A Falcon Saker 14-42 9sp FW FITS inside the frame, and is only about 270 grams heavier (which it can afford after changing the bar/post/crankset/bb cups) for a whole lot better gear range. The Falcon 8 speed 13-40 FW will NOT fit though.

- Stock shifter and derailleur are from Microshift. The twist-shifter is much too large a barrel diameter for small hands to grip properly, especially wearing winter gloves and should be replaced with a thumb or trigger shifter. The rear derailleur is a short cage unit incapable of working with much larger than a 34T cog.

- The brake levers the bike comes with are fairly light but I would judge the reach to be a bit far for small hands (even after adjusting) so I will be replacing those with some tektro levers taken off the same XCFs.

- The saddle is an adult unisex 270mm length narrow racing type and should be replaced with something overall shorter in length for small riders.

Photos below are from the first one I upgraded.






Bicycle Tire Wheel Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Crankset
Tire Wheel Land vehicle Automotive tire Light
Bicycle Bicycle tire Automotive tire Light Automotive lighting
Land vehicle Bicycle Bicycle frame Bicycle handlebar Bicycle tire
Bicycle Wheel Bicycle wheel Tire Bicycle handlebar
Wheel Tire Bicycle Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Crankset
Bicycle Wheel Bicycle frame Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Bicycle tire
Tire Wheel Crankset Bicycle tire Bicycles--Equipment and supplies
Tire Wheel Bicycles--Equipment and supplies Bicycle Bicycle wheel
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Yawn.

Wake me up when a real, actual, brand, makes one that isn't designed to fail in 50 hours ride time....
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Yawn.

Wake me up when a real, actual, brand, makes one that isn't designed to fail in 50 hours ride time....
And yet you won't pass up an opportunity to show how much of an asshole you are to brands offering alternatives to overpriced garbage like Cannondale does eh?
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Cannondale IS overpriced garbage, so you'll have to do better than that.

Ditto for most of the brands now. Prices are insane, and what you get for it, hasn't truly improved in 15 years in any appreciable way that viscerally impacts rider enjoyment, safety or pleasure, it just makes the cash flow more heavily to the brands investors.

Yet, just because one end of the spectrum is at fault for something, doesn't give the opposite end of the spectrum, an excuse to run free without critique, and junk brands that make and sell garbage designed to be thrown out after short term use, are a wasteful affront to common sense, functional value, and mother earth.

They do not respresent value for those without deep pockets (as they try to position themselves as doing), they make said customer spend more money, more often, on repairs, and outright replacements, than buying a basic, solid, well engineered bike.

Though, why you're wasting your personal time, shilling the industries excrement, is beyond me, seems with your hyper analytical mind (meant as a compliment), you could find more interesting things to write novellas about....
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Cannondale IS overpriced garbage, so you'll have to do better than that.

Ditto for most of the brands now. Prices are insane, and what you get for it, hasn't truly improved in 15 years in any appreciable way that viscerally impacts rider enjoyment, safety or pleasure, it just makes the cash flow more heavily to the brands investors.

Yet, just because one end of the spectrum is at fault for something, doesn't give the opposite end of the spectrum, an excuse to run free without critique, and junk brands that make and sell garbage designed to be thrown out after short term use, are a wasteful affront to common sense, functional value, and mother earth.

They do not respresent value for those without deep pockets (as they try to position themselves as doing), they make said customer spend more money, more often, on repairs, and outright replacements, than buying a basic, solid, well engineered bike.

Though, why you're wasting your personal time, shilling the industries excrement, is beyond me, seems with your hyper analytical mind (meant as a compliment), you could find more interesting things to write novellas about....
You yourself could just keep your trap shut and ignore posts that don't interest you. But no....
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Came here thinking this would be 1 thread with nothing to fight about. Silly me. Good write up. WTF on that 36t ring and dayum! @ 38lbs. Anyone have firsthand knowledge of a kid actually riding one of these?
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Came here thinking this would be 1 thread with nothing to fight about. Silly me. Good write up. WTF on that 36t ring and dayum! @ 38lbs. Anyone have firsthand knowledge of a kid actually riding one of these?
I didn't have any problems with my 39# Schwinn Sting-Ray back in the day...
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I just want to say thanks @DeeEight for doing this. One of my friends was looking at the 24" Mongoose for his kid after I saw your post. He thought this would be a good choice for him as he also is a tinkerer and could do something that works well, is safe and that he could afford.

Last year, I bought a CCM Brut 4.0 fat bike (530$cdn at Canadian Tire) after reading your posts and upgraded it. Got some CST Toboggan tires (which are awesome), a TranzX dropper, replaced the drivetrain for an 11 speed SLX 11-46 I had in my spare parts bin, new Avid brake levers, etc. After a good regrease and tune, it ended up costing me 800$ cdn all included, and I did 40 rides on it last winter without a single issue. In fact, it is probably my most fun/dollar bike ever. I wouldn't have bought a 1300$-1500$ fat bike since I wasn't sure I'd use it, and at that price, the other options didn't have good pedals, a dropper, or other things I've swapped. Maybe a beginner wouldn't have done all the upgrades I did, but for some people it can be a great option.

If it was ****, I would say it, but what I kept (the frame, wheels, brakes, rotors, crankset, chainring and stem basically) were all good quality (and the frame is straighter than my 2K mtb frame!). Try finding those parts on themselves to build a fat bike... good luck!

You posts are very valuable and contribute positively to the community. In my opinion, it is well spent free time that helps others and it objectively shows what the possibilities are with the bike. If one judges that it's not worth it, then so be it. If only more people would use their free time to do that instead of bitching, the world would be a better place. Thanks again.
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Thank you for keeping us informed of the big "bike shaped objects". I wanna dip my toe in fatter waters, and "boutique bikes" are too much excess for something that will get blasted with salt for half of the year, and ignored for the other half.
I considered one of these for my 8 year old son but decided against it based on the sheer weight of it, gearing, heavy wheels and tires and disposable parts.

I also don't have the spare parts to upgrade it for him either.

38 pound bike for my 80 pound son, I weigh 220 and ride a 32'ish pound Yukon
I considered one of these for my 8 year old son but decided against it based on the sheer weight of it, gearing, heavy wheels and tires and disposable parts.

I also don't have the spare parts to upgrade it for him either.

38 pound bike for my 80 pound son, I weigh 220 and ride a 32'ish pound Yukon
The only "disposable" parts in the stock build are the reflectors and the handlebar (although it does a good job as a lug wrench breaker bar extension for a car). Nothing on the bike is going to just magically fail in 50 hours as MoronCycleSmith seems to believe. Pretty much all the parts you'd need to upgrade on one can be bought from Amazon or AliExpress, or even FB marketplace and pinkbike. Except for a couple bits I had already from having upgraded so many Northrock XCFs everything else in the one I upgraded I got in under 48hrs from local shops and Amazon. The wheels aren't heavy. They're lighter than the wheels on many 26er fat bikes that sell for close to 2k. Tires weights are competitive to some of the best folding bead 26 x 4.0 tires. The stock steel fork is still lighter than the one on the CCM Brut and Northrock XCF. The one I upgraded lost over a pound AND improved the gearing to a 34T ring and 14-42 cogset which is plenty low enough for the typical rolling terrain of most of Ontario.
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I'm not going to get into a debate with you on this, I realize you resell these things so you're not going to be very objective anyway.

You mentioned the lack of seals and grease on the BB and headset, one would expect the parts to fail without proper grease.

Steel bars, post and cranks...you said yourself to use it as a prybar...so disposable. What could I resell it for? $5?

A 3.5 pound steel fork on a 24 inch wheeled bike is an anchor any way you slice it.

95 mm inner width wheels with 36 spokes for a 24 x 4 inch tire are overkill and needlessly added weight for an 80 pound kid to ride in the snow. Plenty of people are running 27.5 x 3.8 on 50-60 mm rims. Probably impossible to go tubeless too.

Likewise steel bars, post, cranks, tubes etc. 38 pounds is 38 pounds. Bad gearing etc makes it even worse and that's before you even try to ride it on snow.

So basically, most of the parts need to be replaced, then you get the Costco "build quality", which I posted a pic of on FB as well (fork installed backwards)

The fact you have a garage full of parts makes it easily upgradeable. For me, not worth the $ or time, plus I admit I would need a shop to do some of the work.

So while the $389 might seem appealing....it would really be $700+ to get it setup properly, which is what you sold your built one for right?

So yeah, it was a pass for me.

Cool to see bikes in that size....but if it were better spec'd for more $ i likely would have grabbed one.. If it was more like the Northrock XCF vs the XC00.

Heck if they had brought the standard Argus Trail and priced it at about $550 ($529 USD) it might have been worth it. 2 x 8 gearing, aluminum fork, bars, post etc.


I'm still on the lookout for a plus tire bike for my son that could do some double duty as a fat bike for groomed days.

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I appreciate the write up.

Based on the review and needed upgrades, seems a better option would be a used Specialized Fat Boy 24 They pop used on Marketplace pretty often for $600-$1000.
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I'm not going to get into a debate with you on this, I realize you resell these things so you're not going to be very objective anyway.
RIGHT...and the fact you wouldn't fucking know any of these details if i hadn't objectively disected one in the first place ?! ..

You mentioned the lack of seals and grease on the BB and headset, one would expect the parts to fail without proper grease.

Steel bars, post and cranks...you said yourself to use it as a prybar...so disposable. What could I resell it for? $5?

A 3.5 pound steel fork on a 24 inch wheeled bike is an anchor any way you slice it.

95 mm inner width wheels with 36 spokes for a 24 x 4 inch tire are overkill and needlessly added weight for an 80 pound kid to ride in the snow. Plenty of people are running 27.5 x 3.8 on 50-60 mm rims. Probably impossible to go tubeless too.
Only the BB is lacking in seals on the cup ends, and if you own a grease gun...this also makes it easy to stuff grease into the cups without even removing them. The headset is sealed fine it just needs more grease in it. But as I said in the writeup...new BB cups with seals are available and easily solves that problem (for under $10 no less). If you're incapable of servicing hub, headset and bottom bracket bearings you probably shouldn't be buying bikes from anywhere but a bicycle store which will do the proper service and assembly for you. Most bike stores are all too happy to take money from mechanically inept people.

The steel parts are heavy...they're not going to break though and aren't disposable unless you choose to replace them. I use the bars as leverage devices for other tools or donate them to the local bike co-op, but the post and cranks will sell just fine to other people looking for spares to do repairs of other bikes. If you think a 3.5 pound fork is heavy for a 24 inch fat wheel you clearly don't know what most 24 inch kids bike forks actually weigh, nor what most steel fat bike forks weigh for 26 inch wheels. As to the rim width.. more floatation is actually a good thing with fat bikes. That some people are willing to put up with shrinking their tires below the claimed sizes stuffing them onto narrow rims doesn't mean its actually the most efficient way to build a fat bike. And to tubeless... I don't know where you live in the country, but Ottawa routinely sees temperatures below -25C and most sealants don't really like that temperature, but no its not impossible to go tubeless on these rims. Its just impractical given the cost of valves, tape and sealant today compared to just buying some lighter tubes.

Likewise steel bars, post, cranks, tubes etc. 38 pounds is 38 pounds. Bad gearing etc makes it even worse and that's before you even try to ride it on snow.
Again with repeating information you didn't have until I reviewed the bike. Do you even have an undestanding of just what kids fat and plus tires bikes from other brands actually weigh. Because under 38 pounds is reasonable for this price point ($380 in store) of a fat bike. The next cheapest alternative available in Canada is $900 (before tax) for the 24 inch Moose which is about 36 pounds with worse tires and tubes and only marginally better gearing (a 11-34 cogset and 28T ring).

So basically, most of the parts need to be replaced

The fact you have a garage full of parts makes it easily upgradeable.

So while the $389 might seem appealing....it would really be $700+ to get it setup properly, which is what you sold your built one for right?
I had the handlebar, brake levers ,crankset and chain that I used in my parts already but as I said, everything else I sourced in 2 days from local shops or Amazon. Now because I was in a hurry to finish the upgrades and get it out into the world in some new owners hands, I paid more for bits than if I'd taken my time with it. Also what I pay for parts isn't going to be what others pay for them, nor does what I did need to be as extensive to improve the bike. But I sold the one above in the photos for $750 and made enough of a profit to pay myself for my labour time spent on it. If I had nothing at all, and wasn't in a hurry, then everything can be gotten from AliExpress in a month and for less money than I paid on Amazon or locally.


So yeah, it was a pass for me.
Then JUST PASS on the whole thread without commenting. Don't be a nimrod like Moroncyclesmith spewing nonsense. As to the reverse fork... I've seen that happen at local bike stores also. Bad bike mechanics aren't exclusive to box stores.
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I appreciate the write up.

Based on the review and needed upgrades, seems a better option would be a used Specialized Fat Boy 24 They pop used on Marketplace pretty often for $600-$1000.
I don't know what a Jasper would be in the USA besides "cheaper" given the different dollar values. Costco USA's website doesn't even show the bike as available while Costco Canada's website does. Its possible Costco USA doesn't even stock the model at all. Maybe Mongoose won't make it available to them since it would take sales away from the Argus Trail 24. Mongoose's international website doesn't show the same fat bike options their USA website offers.
RIGHT...and the fact you wouldn't fucking know any of these details if i hadn't objectively disected one in the first place ?! ..

Only the BB is lacking in seals on the cup ends, and if you own a grease gun...this also makes it easy to stuff grease into the cups without even removing them. The headset is sealed fine it just needs more grease in it. But as I said in the writeup...new BB cups with seals are available and easily solves that problem (for under $10 no less). If you're incapable of servicing hub, headset and bottom bracket bearings you probably shouldn't be buying bikes from anywhere but a bicycle store which will do the proper service and assembly for you. Most bike stores are all too happy to take money from mechanically inept people.

The steel parts are heavy...they're not going to break though and aren't disposable unless you choose to replace them. I use the bars as leverage devices for other tools or donate them to the local bike co-op, but the post and cranks will sell just fine to other people looking for spares to do repairs of other bikes. If you think a 3.5 pound fork is heavy for a 24 inch fat wheel you clearly don't know what most 24 inch kids bike forks actually weigh, nor what most steel fat bike forks weigh for 26 inch wheels. As to the rim width.. more floatation is actually a good thing with fat bikes. That some people are willing to put up with shrinking their tires below the claimed sizes stuffing them onto narrow rims doesn't mean its actually the most efficient way to build a fat bike. And to tubeless... I don't know where you live in the country, but Ottawa routinely sees temperatures below -25C and most sealants don't really like that temperature, but no its not impossible to go tubeless on these rims. Its just impractical given the cost of valves, tape and sealant today compared to just buying some lighter tubes.

Again with repeating information you didn't have until I reviewed the bike. Do you even have an undestanding of just what kids fat and plus tires bikes from other brands actually weigh. Because under 38 pounds is reasonable for this price point ($380 in store) of a fat bike. The next cheapest alternative available in Canada is $900 (before tax) for the 24 inch Moose which is about 36 pounds with worse tires and tubes and only marginally better gearing (a 11-34 cogset and 28T ring).

I had the handlebar, brake levers ,crankset and chain that I used in my parts already but as I said, everything else I sourced in 2 days from local shops or Amazon. Now because I was in a hurry to finish the upgrades and get it out into the world in some new owners hands, I paid more for bits than if I'd taken my time with it. Also what I pay for parts isn't going to be what others pay for them, nor does what I did need to be as extensive to improve the bike. But I sold the one above in the photos for $750 and made enough of a profit to pay myself for my labour time spent on it. If I had nothing at all, and wasn't in a hurry, then everything can be gotten from AliExpress in a month and for less money than I paid on Amazon or locally.

Then JUST PASS on the whole thread without commenting. Don't be a nimrod like Moroncyclesmith spewing nonsense. As to the reverse fork... I've seen that happen at local bike stores also. Bad bike mechanics aren't exclusive to box stores.
It's funny your sig says this when the complete opposite is true.

I don't post to generate business for myself or make like I'm better than sliced bread

You posted about a bike, I wrote more than 1 detailed responses that I CONSIDERED BUYING ONE but I eventually didn't (yes largely based on your write up but 38 pounds and inadequate gearing isn't hard to spot) and provided the reasoning for the decision yet you tell me to not post in your thread.

LOL. Sure thing bud.

FYI, I just got back from Costco....they have the same 5 Jaspers on display....including the one with the backwards fork. These aren't flying off the shelves like the Northrock and rightfully so.

Too bad we can't get this deal in Canada, Fatboy 24 for $665, or like I mentioned before, the Argus Trail. The Fatboy 24 weighs 29 pounds.


Amazing that the Fatboy 24 comes with 68 mm internal rims......with the same width (4 inch) tires.....it's amazing the 80 pound kids can manage on such a "narrow" rim. :rolleyes:

As for the rest of your "educational tips" about rim width and Ottawa temps, the bloody Jasper rims are wider than 90% of the stock ADULT sized rims. Mulefut, Jackalope, Turnagain, DT Swiss, Giant etc. Its's overkill full stop, especially for a 4 inch tire. As for sealant freezing, I've had no issues riding in less than -25 degree temps. An aluminum fork (from the Argus trail) would save a pound alone.

SO THANKS FOR POSTING A DETAILED REVIEW OF THE JASPER DEEEIGHT!

And good luck with your BSO reselling business.

p.s. It's still a pass for me.
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Cannondale IS overpriced garbage, so you'll have to do better than that.

Ditto for most of the brands now. Prices are insane, and what you get for it, hasn't truly improved in 15 years in any appreciable way that viscerally impacts rider enjoyment, safety or pleasure, it just makes the cash flow more heavily to the brands investors.

Yet, just because one end of the spectrum is at fault for something, doesn't give the opposite end of the spectrum, an excuse to run free without critique, and junk brands that make and sell garbage designed to be thrown out after short term use, are a wasteful affront to common sense, functional value, and mother earth.


Cannondale IS overpriced garbage, so you'll have to do better than that.



Ditto for most of the brands now. Prices are insane, and what you get for it, hasn't truly improved in 15 years in any appreciable way that viscerally impacts rider enjoyment, safety or pleasure, it just mae cash flow more heavily to the brands investors.

Yet, just because one end of the spectrum is at fault for something, doesn't give the opposite end of the spectrum, an excuse to run free without critique, and junk brands that make and sell garbage designed to be thrown out after short term use, are a wasteful affront to common sense, functional value, and mother earth.

They do not respresent value for those without deep pockets (as they try to position themselves as doing), they make said customer spend more money, more often, on repairs, and outright replacements, than buying a basic, solid, well engineered bike.

Though, why you're wasting your personal time, shilling the industries excrement, is beyond me, seems with your hyper analytical mind (meant as a compliment), you could find more interesting things to write novellas about....
They do not respresent value for those without deep pockets (as they try to position themselves as doing), they make said customer spend more money, more often, on repairs, and outright replacements, than buying a basic, solid, well engineered bike.
I have no clue what happened to that post above, but I'm unable to delete it and/or edit it to make it correct. Perhaps a mod can delete.
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