[EddieAAAA]

My Moment has developed a squeak similar to a cheap bed in a mexican [email protected]&^*$%. The squeak is louder than my ipod turned up 3/4. The squeek seems to be cadence related and more pronounced on small bump trails. The noise seems to be coming the big red bearing near the crank, but I have now replaced this twice. Could the crank be the problem, it is a Race Face Atlas ?

The squeak will go away for a mile or so after I ride through a 4" deep stream, then it comes back. This kills my idea that the noise was coming from the chain stays.

I just went through a total rebuild with new bearings, sexpins ect. $ 500.00 in labor alone and the problem is still there. The bearings seem to be fine, I have lubed everything that I can think of.

Any help or advice will be appreciated.

EddieAAAA

 

[ChunkersEllsworth]

Are you sure it's not coming from the DU bearings on in the shock? As we all know these noises are notorious to locate.

 

[Lobbydosser]

I had the same problem on my Moment. I too have Atlas cranks and discovered it was a worn plastic spacer on the bearing. For some reason the spacer on the non-drive side became worn and developed a sqeal. Raceface do not supply these spacers on their own and so I replaced the x-type bottom bracket and no more problems.

Cheers,

Lobby.

 

[coldsteele]

What kind a pedals do you have? When I had Time ATAC Z's when the going got real dry the rubber seal for the spindle would squeek. I started to carry WL lube with my and put a couple of drops on them during the ride.

If it is in the piviots you should be ableto make the squeek even while not pedaling.

 

[chad1433]

I've had creaks from my shock mounting bolts, but nothing too annoying. I'd check out that bottom bracket - seems like the water is reducing the squeak after you submerge it.

Other things that creak - seat, seatpost, shoes on the pedals, pivot bearings. Also, I hate to say this...check for cracks.

 

[EddieAAAA]

Thanks everyone for your comments. These are good ideas, hopefully the chainstay is not cracked from the inside.

I have checked the pedals by installing 3 types, including Mag Mallets, NYC shin burglers and Candy Ti's from my cross bike.

I have ordered another bb, this was the only thing that I did not replace during my recent overhaul. I can see a small gap where I believe something should be. My LBS always tells me that there is a lot of water down there, I hope that this is the answer.

I will also remove the shock and install new bolts, lube & torque everything up.

The seat always squeels a little, WTB Lazer Ti, but I bought a new one and it seems to be OK. To check the seat post, I dropped it almost all the way down and it is good, however the squeak is less when I am not sitting. The weight distribution does change the frequency of the squeak.

 

[coldsteele]

Then it is definitely your gloves :thumbsup:

 

[Tarbaby4Ever]

My Moment has developed a squeak similar to a cheap bed in a mexican [email protected]&^*$%. The squeak is louder than my ipod turned up 3/4. The squeek seems to be cadence related and more pronounced on small bump trails. The noise seems to be coming the big red bearing near the crank, but I have now replaced this twice. Could the crank be the problem, it is a Race Face Atlas ?

The squeak will go away for a mile or so after I ride through a 4" deep stream, then it comes back. This kills my idea that the noise was coming from the chain stays.

I just went through a total rebuild with new bearings, sexpins ect. $ 500.00 in labor alone and the problem is still there. The bearings seem to be fine, I have lubed everything that I can think of.

Any help or advice will be appreciated.

EddieAAAA

500 !!!?!! for labor ?? I just had a complete overhaul of my entire bike including replacing the bushings,completely rebuilding the drivetrain and BB,truing the wheels,replacing the headset,and all new cabling for breaks and shifters/derailers,and top it off had the shock on my old 2k Truth completely rebuilt as well.Then had the front Zokes Z2 rebuilt and cleaned,and the whole thing cost 105 dollars in labor in Cdn funds,taxes included.Is labor at LBS's in the US that $$$ normally !? The headset (S-3 CaneCreek) was an extra 37 cdn,not the best,but its light and works.I hope this noise youre hearing gets diagnosed and fixed,but my god thats crazy for just labor...

 

[EddieAAAA]

Man, I don't need no stinking gloves.

I took the bike to a "good" bike shop and the wrench found that that one of the rocker bearings was sticking out 2 mm and the result was metal on metal. Bike sounds better than when it was brand new. I am a satisfied Ellsworth owner again.

 

[coldsteele]

Man, I don't need no stinking gloves.

I took the bike to a "good" bike shop and the wrench found that that one of the rocker bearings was sticking out 2 mm and the result was metal on metal. Bike sounds better than when it was brand new. I am a satisfied Ellsworth owner again.

Good to hear it.

Was the said bearing bad? Or do you think it was not put in properly to begin with?

Oh I forgot you went to a shop to get them replaced. You should present this to them and get somewhat of a refund!! With the amount of money they charged they should have gotten it right!

 

[EddieAAAA]

Good to hear it.

Was the said bearing bad? Or do you think it was not put in properly to begin with?

Oh I forgot you went to a shop to get them replaced. You should present this to them and get somewhat of a refund!! With the amount of money they charged they should have gotten it right!

Bearing was good, I am guessing that the wrench did not have much experience working on Ellsworth bikes. The lbs is a Specialized and Gary Fisher dealer. With all of the bad vibes I received at West End, it is not worth the money to back to the shop. Things would probably get ugly. Had such a good time this weekend riding a properly working bike, I want to keep the good Karma going.

 

[6 SPOT]

industrial grade enginering!

Take it to your LBS

 

[coldsteele]

The bushing / bearing thing can go back and forth for a long long long time.

I have a few friends, yes I do pay them , that have had bushing problems on Treks, Turners, and EWs. I have had bad bearings on my EW's but I just pulled them, popped the seals and repacked them.

So if you ask me, I think it comes down to maintenance and the abilities of the mechanic, working on your rig, that determines the life and function of the bushing or bearing.

 

[chad1433]

Yeah, that's a leap, based on the fact that it wasn't the bearing that failed, but the tech who installed it...

 

[UP Dude]

A debate for the ages

In theory, bushings are supposed to have less friction since the metal is never supposed to be in contact, which you might expect to lead to a smoothing action. But we all know the real world and the theoretical world don't always agree. The perfectly lubricated environment is hard to come by on a mountain bike.

For my money, I think bearings are the way to go. They are better suited for the riggors of off road cycling. Grime is abundant and a necessary evil, so I feel the easier it is to maintain the better. I think bearings are easier. Press out, press in. However, as seen in this case, it may not be so easy to all walks of life.

This topic reminds of a debate I've have had before between traditional cup and cone and sealed cartridge hubs. I find cone and cup extremely frustrating and completely out of place on a mountain bike. They were originally designed for road bikes where the environment is much less harsh. I had an XT rear hub (never, ever again) that came loose on a weekly basis. Which of course leads to more grime getting in and having to repack the hub more often. Blah, I get angry just thinking about it. But, it has been said (and I can believe it) that a properly adjusted cone and cup hub has less rolling resistance and can run smoother than a seal cartridge hub. Just not on the trail.

I guess my point is that different applications have different requirements. Thats the beauty of engineering, finding the best comprimise for the best solution. Mr.Turner feels bushings are the way to go. And his incorporation of the grease fittings are really cool. Bearings are easier from a manufacturing and maintenence standpoint, and are just as smooth to most people. So build my mousetrap with bearings :thumbsup:

 

[chad1433]

Sure...it just gives a Homer a reason to come thru with a "drive by"...weaksauce, as they might say...:rant:

 

[MT Road]

Cup and Cone

This topic reminds of a debate I've have had before between traditional cup and cone and sealed cartridge hubs. I find cone and cup extremely frustrating and completely out of place on a mountain bike. They were originally designed for road bikes where the environment is much less harsh.:thumbsup:

No doubt.. I worked in a shop for over twn years, and I prefer a cup and cone for a raod bike, when set up correctley they fly but they need maintenance.. Back in the day track riders would only use light oil in a cupe and cone to reduce friction.. but would have to re due them after each race..

For a MTB Cartridge is the only way to play.. and if maintaned corectley they will last a long time..

C