B-man, some have reported seat tube rub issues bottoming the Mojo C or SL with a 2.3 Neo-moto 650b tire. With this tire there is 4 - 5 mm clearance at the stays, enough. Shimming the bottom travel with home made split plastic washers is very easy, without removing the shock from the bike. The HD I tried my rear 650b 2.3 Neo-moto had plenty of clearance in every way. Most 6+ inch travel bikes clear any 650b tire.doismellbacon said:Search the Ibis forum and the 650b forum and you'll find a lot of posts on the subject, many of which are by Derby.
Derby,derby said:I'm a little concerned that raising the BB 1/2" on the HD using 650b may be getting into an awkward BB height, from 13.75 with 26 inch wheels to 14.25 inch with 650b. Using deeper recommended sag would reduce the weighted BB height more than 650b on the Mojo so it should be OK. If still to tall feeling, then using 5mm longer cranks could lower seat height, and help compensate for the reduced torque and higher gearing of bigger wheels.
The WTB Mutanoraptors are unusually tall for their width, the Race version I used on California trails measured only 3/8 inch less in diameter compared to your excellent 650b x 2.3 Pacenti neo-moto tires. The UST AM Mutanoraptors appear even taller, but the thicker AM tread may be deceiving.Kirk Pacenti said:Derby,
I am not sure this is the case... According to the frame drawing / geometry chart on the Ibis web site, both the Mojo and HD are designed with 0mm of BB drop. That means the static BB height will always be equal to the wheel radius.
The HD was obviously designed for large (2.4"+???) 26" tires. If the drawing is accurate, the wheel radius is almost exactly the same as a 2.3" 650b tire, resulting in a 352mm BB height. There should be very little if any rise in the BB.
This is the very reason I am so excited to pick up an HD frame. It seems perfectly suited for a "Plus 1" type 650b conversion
It's been over 2.5 years since I went to 650b and measured my old mutanoraptor 2.4 against the 650b neomoto 2.3. It may have been 5/8 inch difference, either way not a lot of difference. The ride feel is different, less side wall flex and wallow with lower pressure slower trail conditions, and the neo-moto 2.3 rolls very easily with a big step up in corner grip.doismellbacon said:I can't speak to those tires, but I went from a 26" Nevegal 2.35 to 650B Nevegal 2.35, and the difference was quite noticeable.
It's a no brainer! For wet NH roots 650-b front 26 rear.You need some mud clearance for the rear.You'll love your HD it's an amazing bike.Are you going tubeless so you can run low pressure? Nothing like floating up a slick rooty trail on 17 psi.rshalit said:a. I don't know what "plus 1" 650b conversion means.
b. I just posted a question about HD 650b before I saw this thread.
--So it sounds like 650b on the rear of HD 160 does NOT require a modification to RP23 shock?
I was thinking of HD 160/160 with 650b front and 26 rear, but it sounds like now I can go with 650b front AND rear?
I'll be building a Small HD 160 with a Talas 160/32; I ride mostly XC/AM technical singletrack, from the roots and rocks of NH, to National on South Mountain in Phoenix, to Mr. Toad's in Tahoe, etc.; I travel a lot and cannot bring another wheelset.... I've been riding my classic Mojo for 4.3 years, and the past 8 months I've loved the 650b front/26 rear with 150/32 Talas fork. I ride Nevegal 2.35's.
Which would be the best for me:
1. 26 f / 26 r
2. 650b f / 26 r
3. 650b f / 650b r
? I know this is a difficult question, but I'm struggling here as I prepare to build my HD 160, but thanks in advance!
Nevegal single ply 2.5. That was when I lived on Maui.The Redwoods trail wasdoismellbacon said:17psi? Really??? I don't think I could pull that off in Austin... I bet it is smooth and grippy on the climbs though. What tires are you running at those pressures?
For what it's worth (I have not ridden the HD yet... local Ibis dealer isn't stocking them ) I'd vote for 140 mode, 650b front and rear for your main rocky singletrack riding.