Mountain Bike Reviews Forum banner
1 - 20 of 61 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
This is my first light build. I've snooped around these forums for months now learning from what you guys have posted and this is my version. I took a Mag D light I picked up from Walmart and chopped it up with a hacksaw to get what I wanted from it. I made a chuck for the head and put it in my drill press and spun the heck out of it to make the cooling finns then buffed it with steel wool. I don't have a lathe yet. I got three Cree Q4's to drop in it with a BFlex driver. I got one of those fancy heatsinks from The Sandwich Shoppe. I fabricated the bayonet mount with the dremel tool for the bar mount which came from Planet Bike's website. I have a 14.8v Li-Ion battery pack from Battery Space. The lense is from Khatod's USA distributor. And the rest is general assembly stuff I've had around. I'm not so sure I'm going to keep this optic lense in there. I have some other Khatod tripple lenses I can fit right in. Also I had to cut down the bezel by 2mm so it would hold the lense in tight. In my opion it's not a bad looking build for someone with the lack of the right tools.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
Impressive work, especially for the tools you (didn't) have to work with! I'm really impressed with the way you integrated the mount in. Looks very professional. I wouldn't even take a second look at a light like that and think homebrew. Where/how are you going to set up the B-flex switch?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
These things keep getting cooler and cooler. Great idea and execution.
I'm trying to do a similar thing with a piece of aluminum I have. Would you mind explaining your drill press chuck lathe-like set-up? What did you use to cut the fins?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I am still thinking about the bFlex switch Not sure how far away from the board it can be mounted but I thought about remoting it.There is a thread here where the guy fabricated a housing for a mouse switch and dipped the whole thing in plastic cote. I like having my controls on the bar as close to the grips as possible.

The chuck to hold the head in the drill press was really hokkie. I used some aluminum pulleys with close diameters to the ends of the head and all-thread and sandwiched it. While it spun at high speed I carefully pushed a large hacksaw blade into it. Then used some emery cloth to clean up the ruff stuff and then fine steel wool to make it shine. The hacksaw blade really worked fast, there was metal shavings flying all over the place. Wear googles if you attempt to do it this way. A lathe would have made for a more perfect gap between the finns but it's close enough for gov't work. I think I will get a lathe one of these days, I'm keeping my eye open for a bargain.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
I love it!

mofoki said:
The chuck to hold the head in the drill press was really hokkie. I used some aluminum pulleys with close diameters to the ends of the head and all-thread and sandwiched it. While it spun at high speed I carefully pushed a large hacksaw blade into it. Then used some emery cloth to clean up the ruff stuff and then fine steel wool to make it shine. The hacksaw blade really worked fast, there was metal shavings flying all over the place. Wear googles if you attempt to do it this way. A lathe would have made for a more perfect gap between the finns but it's close enough for gov't work. I think I will get a lathe one of these days, I'm keeping my eye open for a bargain.
That is great. I guess that drill press must have a pretty good amount of torque.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
346 Posts
I've thought about the remote thing, too. Seems like it would be easy enough with the bFlex since any momentary switch will work to send the signal. You might even think about having your driver in your battery case.

I've thought about making a wireless remote for my helmet with a switch on the bars, but really need to find the right person help me with some switching circuits to make it happen.

Seriously nice work. I started with similar insanity, trying to use a compound slide miter saw and a drill press with a 4-way vice on it as a mill when I first started playing. Now I've picked up a cheap mill from Harbor Freight, but even after a year of using it, don't have half the skills I need to get the precision I need to make stuff look good. Keep an eye out on e-bay. Machining hobbiests are always upgrading their mills and lathes. I'd hate to see what you could do with the right tools!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
How did you dremel that mount?????

I need to pull out my dremel from the closet!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Kind of like a beaver carves the pieces for his dam. No, it took some time to scalpt the mount out of a piece of aluminum. Most people wouldn't screw around with anything that much. I like playing around with my dremel. I use to build RC airplanes and probably accquired my skills from that.

I made the switch today but I can't get the pics posted until tomarrow. Wait until you all see it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
914 Posts
dam that looks really nice for a drill press.

I am using a kill switch off a honda CR250 for my bflex. It mounts next to my grips. I haven't mounted it yet but a switch is a switch right? Post pics of the switch you made.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
41 Posts
Do you have a link for the heat sink I went to sandwich shop and couldnt find that sink, been looking for a screw in one. Thanks Good job btw
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
520 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Since I liked the idea of using the micro switch from a computer mouse and the fact it's readily available and FREE, I canibalized an old mouse. Turns out there was three switches in there. Yupeee! Spares for my next project.
I soldered some wires to the pins on the switch and used some small pieces of heatshrink tubing to cover the solder.
I have some plastic spacers that are about 1 inch in diameter and .25 inch thick with a hole in the middle, kind of like a big fat washer. I cut out a gap big enough for the switch to fit then drilled a 1/16th in hole to pin the switch in the washer. The actuating button of the switch is centered in the circumference of the spacer.
The spacer assembly fits perfectly in the inside of a plastic beauty end-cap for standard 2 in.aluminum tubing which happens to be the same size as the back end of my light. I cut a 1/2 inch hole in the cap and took a rubber patch from a tire patch kit to make a membrane button cover for the switch. It works great. I am so proud of myself.
Building the back like this will allow me to close up the back end without twisting the wires by screwing on a cap. It will aslo be water resistant and won't come off unless I want to remove it.
I will get some pics tomarrow.
 

·
Crunchatize me Capn'
Joined
·
2,898 Posts
Wow, I had no idea that the thickness of a Mag head was that thick. I wish I could solder to try my own. Unfortunately I suck at it (not that I've ever done that much anyway). Nice job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
550 Posts
At the risk of sounding like some of my physicist and engineer collegues, you have come up with a truly elegant solution. Its making my efforts seem primitive (and violent) by comparison. I love the way it all fits together so smoothly, has nice design lines, utilizes simplicity, and above all, totally makes sense in the "common sense" approach. Thanks for the pics and explanations. GOOD WORK.
Where does the power connect?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,152 Posts
how in the world did you manage to make that bayonet mount with a dremel tool? Can you post close up pics of that? Overall, it's real slick, makes me want to hack up my D-cell mag light...

BM
 
1 - 20 of 61 Posts
Top