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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone know how to check preload and make adjustments for bb and rear hub bearings? BB seems like it might be to tight, 7 weeks old so it should be broke in by now. Thanks in advance!
 

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Derailleurless
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Preload tends to be a thing of the past with cartridge bearing cartridges we're using these days. With cranks you have no say -- just crank the cups to the proper torque and run 'em.

With hubs, depending on what you're running, it's usually still a old-school lock nut type deal.

But I believe you stated in a previous post your wheel spins for a long time, indicating your bearings aren't sticking.

You could check something similar with your crank: derail your chain and give 'er a fling.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
Speedub.Nate said:
Preload tends to be a thing of the past with cartridge bearing cartridges we're using these days. With cranks you have no say -- just crank the cups to the proper torque and run 'em.

With hubs, depending on what you're running, it's usually still a old-school lock nut type deal.

But I believe you stated in a previous post your wheel spins for a long time, indicating your bearings aren't sticking.

You could check something similar with your crank: derail your chain and give 'er a fling.
Thanks just found that out at the LBS. Turns out I have a bad bb bearing though so this should solve my lack of speed problem in the XC. LBS also checked out the rear hub bearings, no problem found there. Also followed your instruction out of curiosity for checking the crank, only spins about 4 - 6 revolutions before stopping compared with one of my other MBs (3 piece crank type) which spins 40+ times / don't know if this is and apple to apple comparison but it should spin more than 4-6 times. Thanks again!
 

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Harky
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Bronc...
Before you resign yourself to replacing a "bad" crank bearing, try loosening the the crank bearing arm a little. If your MKIII is like mine, you have a FSA crank set. My LBS assembled the crank set too tight.
Loosen the double pinch bolts on the non-drive side crank arm, then back out the hub bolt. Pull the crank arm out a little. Check for free rotation to make sure that it isn't a bearing problem. Snug the hub bolt down lightly to take up any play in the shaft, then tighten the crank arm pinch bolts. It should spin freely.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
harky said:
Bronc...
Before you resign yourself to replacing a "bad" crank bearing, try loosening the the crank bearing arm a little. If your MKIII is like mine, you have a FSA crank set. My LBS assembled the crank set too tight.
Loosen the double pinch bolts on the non-drive side crank arm, then back out the hub bolt. Pull the crank arm out a little. Check for free rotation to make sure that it isn't a bearing problem. Snug the hub bolt down lightly to take up any play in the shaft, then tighten the crank arm pinch bolts. It should spin freely.
When I took the bike to the LBS yesterday he took out the crank and turning the bearings with your finger you could hear one of them clicking and had more resistance than the other side. I don't relish the idea of having to change out the bearings since it sounds like the threading has to be re-taped before installation and if that is the case I am starting to think maybe I should go with a new higher precision set. But I will definitely give that a try today.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
harky said:
Bronc...
Before you resign yourself to replacing a "bad" crank bearing, try loosening the the crank bearing arm a little. If your MKIII is like mine, you have a FSA crank set. My LBS assembled the crank set too tight.
Loosen the double pinch bolts on the non-drive side crank arm, then back out the hub bolt. Pull the crank arm out a little. Check for free rotation to make sure that it isn't a bearing problem. Snug the hub bolt down lightly to take up any play in the shaft, then tighten the crank arm pinch bolts. It should spin freely.
harky
I tried your recommendation. If I loosen it spins more freely but then has some play if you grab both pedals and pull up on one and push down on the other. Tightening it further eliminates most of the play but still has a very slight amount of play, at this point it spins about 10 revolutions by hand. Tighten to eliminate all the play and I am back where I started. Called the LBS and they said that it should be torqued no play. Can't seem to find the sweet spot where it's snug with reduced resistance and no play. Seems like even a minute amount of play might cause unwanted wear but I don't know what play tolerance are acceptable. Thanks!
 

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Harky
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broncbuster said:
harky
I tried your recommendation. If I loosen it spins more freely but then has some play if you grab both pedals and pull up on one and push down on the other. Tightening it further eliminates most of the play but still has a very slight amount of play, at this point it spins about 10 revolutions by hand. Tighten to eliminate all the play and I am back where I started. Called the LBS and they said that it should be torqued no play. Can't seem to find the sweet spot where it's snug with reduced resistance and no play. Seems like even a minute amount of play might cause unwanted wear but I don't know what play tolerance are acceptable. Thanks!
Bronc...I'm not sure I understand what you did...but I had the same problem you did.
You loosened the crank arm pinch bolts, but did you loosen the special bolt that threads into the end of the crankshaft and holds the crank onto the crankshaft?
If you loosen that a little, it allows a side-to-side play in the bearings.
Lightly snug this hub bolt until there is no play then tighten the crank arm pinch bolts. You MUST have the crank bolts tight! Then tighten the hub bolt so that it won't come out. It's a process very much like tightening your headset...snug the cap screw to eliminate play but minimize binding...tighten the stem bolts, then tighten the cap bolt.
OK??
 

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baggin ho's
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I really dislike this setup. I've blown through 3 sets of bearings it about 16 months on my mk3 expert. and every time I replace them I go through the same thing you're going through. part of the resistance is your new bearings being packed with grease. but if they make noise they are bad. Try to have your LBS warranty a new bb for you through IH. If they can't make it happen, for free if it's where you bought the bike, you can just buy the bearings and replace them in the cups. just remove the plastic cover that says DO NOT REMOVE and tap the old out and the new in. there is no need to rethread anything and if you are being told this you are being lied to. Follow the torque specs on the crank arms and top nut and you should be fine. Glad to see you are getting to the bottom of this
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
harky said:
Bronc...I'm not sure I understand what you did...but I had the same problem you did.
You loosened the crank arm pinch bolts, but did you loosen the special bolt that threads into the end of the crankshaft and holds the crank onto the crankshaft?
If you loosen that a little, it allows a side-to-side play in the bearings.
Lightly snug this hub bolt until there is no play then tighten the crank arm pinch bolts. You MUST have the crank bolts tight! Then tighten the hub bolt so that it won't come out. It's a process very much like tightening your headset...snug the cap screw to eliminate play but minimize binding...tighten the stem bolts, then tighten the cap bolt.
OK??
Oh yah I did all that. Do me a favor though and check to see if you have any play by grabbing your pedals the way I described earlier. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
g-funk said:
I really dislike this setup. I've blown through 3 sets of bearings it about 16 months on my mk3 expert. and every time I replace them I go through the same thing you're going through. part of the resistance is your new bearings being packed with grease. but if they make noise they are bad. Try to have your LBS warranty a new bb for you through IH. If they can't make it happen, for free if it's where you bought the bike, you can just buy the bearings and replace them in the cups. just remove the plastic cover that says DO NOT REMOVE and tap the old out and the new in. there is no need to rethread anything and if you are being told this you are being lied to. Follow the torque specs on the crank arms and top nut and you should be fine. Glad to see you are getting to the bottom of this
Not understanding him to say re-thread but clean up existing thread with a tap. Expected the new bearings to be tight but not after this long / I'll see what they can do first but got to get rid of this anchor soon. Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
harky said:
There is also a good photo series at the www.enduroforkseals.com site...although they are selling replacement cartridge bearings...still informative.
Good deal harky. In know where I can get them in the future / lists fitting FSA MegaExo. I think g-funk said he has had to replaced his 3 times in 16 months so probably not a bad idea to stock a set.

Also left directions for you under "MKIII / Panaracer Cinder Tires?" thread. Late
 

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Harky
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broncbuster said:
Oh yah I did all that. Do me a favor though and check to see if you have any play by grabbing your pedals the way I described earlier. Thanks!
Did that...and yes, there is a little up and down play in the crank bearings...hmmmm.
The fit between the bearing and the crankshaft seems ok...looks to be in the bearing itself. I loosened the crank arm, tightened the preload a little, and the play went away. I don't know if these are straight cartridge bearings like wheel bearings or tapered like head bearings. (If you read the instructions for installation of new bearings on the enduro fork seal site, they make no mention of direction or install...) So, I'm gonna assume that they are straight ball or roller bearings and leave just a little play.
I also have an 04 Hollowpoint with the shimano hollowtech crank and bearings...I'll check that tomorrow and see if it has similar play.
The shimano bearings have held up to about 3 years of almost daily rides...probably close to 5,000mi on that bike and they are still good. I checked them carefully when I re-installed them on my 3rd warranty HP frame.
I hope the FSA bearings on my MKIII do half as well.
Good luck, Bronc.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
harky said:
Did that...and yes, there is a little up and down play in the crank bearings...hmmmm.
The fit between the bearing and the crankshaft seems ok...looks to be in the bearing itself. I loosened the crank arm, tightened the preload a little, and the play went away. I don't know if these are straight cartridge bearings like wheel bearings or tapered like head bearings. (If you read the instructions for installation of new bearings on the enduro fork seal site, they make no mention of direction or install...) So, I'm gonna assume that they are straight ball or roller bearings and leave just a little play.
I also have an 04 Hollowpoint with the shimano hollowtech crank and bearings...I'll check that tomorrow and see if it has similar play.
The shimano bearings have held up to about 3 years of almost daily rides...probably close to 5,000mi on that bike and they are still good. I checked them carefully when I re-installed them on my 3rd warranty HP frame.
I hope the FSA bearings on my MKIII do half as well.
Good luck, Bronc.
harky
One other thing if you could, drop your chain onto the MKIII bb housing and spin your crank to count and see how many rotations it does. I am only getting about 10 after following your recomendations which is better but compared to my 3 piece crank MB which is 40+ revs. no so good. I am not spinning it all that hard just moderate force.
Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
harky said:
There is also a good photo series at the www.enduroforkseals.com site...although they are selling replacement cartridge bearings...still informative.
harky
One other thing if you could, drop your chain onto the MKIII bb housing and spin your crank to count and see how many rotations it does. I am only getting about 10 after following your recomendations. I am not spinning it all that hard just moderate force.
Thanks!
 

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Harky
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broncbuster said:
harky
One other thing if you could, drop your chain onto the MKIII bb housing and spin your crank to count and see how many rotations it does. I am only getting about 10 after following your recomendations. I am not spinning it all that hard just moderate force.
Thanks!
Bronc...
I'm getting about the same...but it's smooth, no noise or grind. I'm not worried (yet).
I read your other post about the trashed o-ring. Bummer. I'll keep a close eye on mine...hoping yours was just a fluke.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 · (Edited)
g-funk said:
I really dislike this setup. I've blown through 3 sets of bearings it about 16 months on my mk3 expert. and every time I replace them I go through the same thing you're going through. part of the resistance is your new bearings being packed with grease. but if they make noise they are bad. Try to have your LBS warranty a new bb for you through IH. If they can't make it happen, for free if it's where you bought the bike, you can just buy the bearings and replace them in the cups. just remove the plastic cover that says DO NOT REMOVE and tap the old out and the new in. there is no need to rethread anything and if you are being told this you are being lied to. Follow the torque specs on the crank arms and top nut and you should be fine. Glad to see you are getting to the bottom of this
Do you need a Bottom Bracket Bearing PULLER/PRESS to remove the bearings? Or are you using a drift to tap them in and out? Still waiting for the bb/ball & chain replacement. Where are you getting your bearings?

Enduro has replacement bearings but they eliminate the little plastic cover by using a smaller inside diameter race and bigger bearings. The race would then ride directly on the spindle. Don't know if that is good or bad. Possible damage to the spindle and larger bearings yet more resistance maybe.
 

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baggin ho's
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no puller

broncbuster said:
Do you need a Bottom Bracket Bearing PULLER/PRESS to remove the bearings? Or are you using a drift to tap them in and out? Still waiting for the bb/ball & chain replacement. Where are you getting your bearings?

Enduro has replacement bearings but they eliminate the little plastic cover by using a smaller inside diameter race and bigger bearings. The race would then ride directly on the spindle. Don't know if that is good or bad. Possible damage to the spindle and larger bearings yet more resistance maybe.
Just a steady hand a HUGE HAMMER (kidding) and a piece of hardwood dowell. and use the old bearing to tap the new one in. my LBS stocks them, they are the same size as the shimano xt's and shimano probably uses better quality bearings. or just buy an xt bb, they are pretty cheap.
 
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