[Speedub.Nate]

This post is one in a series of twelve posts depcting the build of my Hollowpoint MkIII. Link to MkIII / Speedhub bike build post.​

Nothing is more thrilling that mutilating a virgin frame. I've been installing full length cable runs on my bikes for a long time now, and I'm satisfied that it's worth the extra trouble. Of the two warranty departments I talked to about it (Giant with my 2001 NRS and Iron Horse for my 2003 Hollowpoint), neither had a problem with me doing this modification, and it hasn't seemed to affect resale value of the frames on eBay. The benefits are reduced friction and elimination of dirt and debris. It seems that any time a cable enters or exits a section of housing, drag is increased, and the manner in which cable saws through ferrules and cable ends over time seems to back this up. A full length run eliminates all but two of the trouble spots. My tools list: Dremel with a 9903 Carbide Cutting Bit & Flex Shaft, Chainsaw File & lots of tape. Here's what I started with.

Lots and lots and lots of tape. This bit likes to walk, and even with a firm hand it manages to get away from a few times. Also drape a cloth over any shocks, bearings, or pivots that you want to keep metal shavings out of. This bit kicks metal filings everywhere. A dust mask is a smart idea.

Did I mention tape? The flex shaft is a big help here. I don't know if I could manage to get the whole Dremel squeezed into this confined space. The flex shaft provides for a straight shot in. The 9903 bit has a chisled tip to help start the hole. This doesn't make it a drill bit, so care is still needed to keep the bit centered, but it removes material fast. Remember to cover your delicate surfaces with a rag or a trashbag.

Once you've got the hole drilled, debur it with a chainsaw file. A 3/16" file is just a tiny bit shy of the 5mm you'll need to squeeze a piece of cable housing through the opening.

Use a scrap piece of housing to ensure you've got a good fit. Try and keep the opening tight, but not so tight that it scrapes material from the housing when you pull it through.

Finished product.

	Index of MkIII Build Posts

[TD]
MAIN: MkIII / Speedhub Build Pics

Iron Horse MkIII Naked Frame (March 2005)

Hollowpoint Speedhub Build Pictures (April 2003)

Cane Creek AD-12 Air Chamber Volume Adjustment

White Brothers 2006 Technology [/TD]

[TD] White Brothers DT 1.2 Fork Porn

Stripping Anodization

Bottom Bracket Drain Hole Drilling & Installation

Drilling Out Cable Stops (Full Length Cable Run)

Dremel Cut & Prep of Cable & Housing [/TD][TD] Hopey Steering Damper Installation

Stripping & Polishing an Aluminum Frame

Homemade Headset Removal & Installation Tools

Star Fangled Nut Removal (Drilling out the Star Nut) [/TD][/TD]
[/TR]

 

[bike_freak]

Greate write-up and awesome photos! Well done!

 

[Dan'ger]

Nice work - I may follow suit.

 

[chuffer]

Also drape a cloth over any shocks, bearings, or pivots that you want to keep metal shavings out of. This bit kicks metal filings everywhere. A dust mask is a smart idea.

a good pair of safety glasses is a must too!!! yes, it is common sense and i assume you used them...

 

[Low_Rider]

Full length is the way to go - it still confuses me why manufacturers still insist on broken runs....

I was lucky with my last conversion as the bike already had deep hydro guides, and a little bit of tape wrapped around the cable made it a perfect press fit. Saved on a bit of dremel work!!

I like your approach as there is no way that the cable can pop out. Good to hear that the warranty departments weren't pricks about it too.

Dave.

 

[Bikehigh]

I took an angle grinder to my MonoCog. Just ground off the ends of the stops, applied the touch up paint, and ran the cable. A zip tie to keep the housing from drooping along the top tube, and done. Didn't even need any tape. I was suprised though that I had to remove about half the stop before exposing the wide section.

 

[Speedub.Nate]

Good to hear that the warranty departments weren't pricks about it too.

Don't hold me to that, though -- "Nate said it was OK -- see this post?" isn't going to fly if Giant or IH denies a claim. If anyone is concerned, they should get it in writing in an email, and don't expect it to fly if you accidentally drill through the frame.

 

[Speedub.Nate]

a good pair of safety glasses is a must too!!! yes, it is common sense and i assume you used them...

Absolutely! I couldn't imagine having a microscopic chunk of that aluminum stuck in my eye. It's a messy job and aluminum ends up **everywhere**!

 

[cbchess]

what would happen if you started from the inside of the cable stop. it seems like it would go much easier - i.e. no walking bits and a cleaner cut.

 

[Speedub.Nate]

what would happen if you started from the inside of the cable stop. it seems like it would go much easier - i.e. no walking bits and a cleaner cut.

It would be if I could fit it that way. The stops are pretty close to either end of the top tube, and in fact on this bike, are on the underside of the top tube. So I have the head tube at the front end and the seat tube at the rear end obstructing a straight shot in.

Also, approaching from the direction I did means the approach angle isn't critical -- I can hit it from an angle. From behind, I'd have to have straight-in alignment to avoid removing material from places where I didn't want to.

 

[Warp]

Nate... all your posts are exelent.... this one really deserves an sticky.

Excelent write-up, awesome pics (the one with the burss flying is plain awesome), and a timeless fix.

I have th opposite problem. My hydro lines guides are too loose for the Magura Julies lines... you know, hook-and-loop bands everywhere cured it.

 

[Speedub.Nate]

I have th opposite problem. My hydro lines guides are too loose for the Magura Julies lines... you know, hook-and-loop bands everywhere cured it.

Can't you bind them really tightly with zip ties? That's what I do to keep the housing from "pushing through" when the suspension compresses.

 

[Warp]

Can't you bind them really tightly with zip ties? That's what I do to keep the housing from "pushing through" when the suspension compresses.

That's what I did. My main problem was at the headtube, rather than at the swingarm/bb area. I did just bind the hydro line with the RD cable and problem solved.

Unfortunately, the previous owners were not that picky with the bike and the hydro line is bent FUBAR. Guiding it along the downtube is a PITA and I used hook-and-loop straps as those don't damage the paint, even if they move a bit around. Obviously, I keep the loop side facing the paint.

Also, I re-routed the hydro lines thru the space between the BB and the swingarm itself. Giant likes to run cable/hoses on top of the main pivot of the Warps... which produces a lot of drag at cables for mechanical brakes and kinking on hoses.

I'll post some pics of the before and after.

BTW... the rest of your posts about your build are excelent too.

 

[Ogre]

Nice

I've been installing full length cable runs on my bikes for a long time now, and I'm satisfied that it's worth the extra trouble.

My bike originally had cable brakes so I've been contemplating doing this for my disc brakes. I'm going to do this mod, I wasn't planning on doing full length cable runs but I think I might do that as well. I don't see any benefits to the current setup... Weight? gimmie a break. I'll bet the reduced friction and less gunk on the cables will make for much cleaner easier shifting.

 

[quemazon]

Just another vote here in favor of full length cable housings. I did this on my comuter, which I ride every day, sometimes in the rain and snow, and it works great. I used a drill on mine, but I had to come in at more of an angle than with the flex cable. If you have a dremmel and a flex cable that's probably the way to go. If you're careful, though, you can get by with a drill.

 

[BPrince]

Good info,Thanks!

 

[hankthespacecowboy]

Thanks for the post, Nate! I've been contemplating this procedure on one of my bikes for awhile now, wondering how to get a bit that close to the frame without too much collateral damage. Looks like I need a new attachment for my Dremel....

 

[dustyrider]

I did this to an old hardtail of mine back in 03, I think, so I could run disc brakes. I never used a power tool. I made do with a small tap/ream and a round file. Of course I only had to run the one brake hose and I had all afternoon and plenty of beer!

 

[abikerider]

Me Too

I just did this for my rear brake cable for my 2001 Ventana ECDM tandem with Avid BB7's. I used a 15/64" drill bit with a hex shaft from Lowes and a flex shaft for driving phillips bits with hex shafts. I then finished it off with the chainsaw sharpening file. I was able to get pretty straight shots from either end of the stops so I was pretty lucky it was so easy. Now do I do the same with the derailler cable stops? It seems like a pretty big run to the rear derailler. Anyone ever do this on a tandem?

 

[Speedub.Nate]

I just did this for my rear brake cable .. Now do I do the same with the derailler cable stops?... Anyone ever do this on a tandem?

Yeah, my tandem is run with full length housing, 'cept I use a Rohloff Speedhub instead of derailleurs so I've got two sets of shifter cables heading back that way.