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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am wondering what you guys have for tire clearance on the rear triangle. On the drive side I have about a 1/2 inch but on the otherside less than a 1/4. I just installed a set of 2.25 Cinders because I thought they would fit a little better than the 2.35 Hansventures that came with the bike new. They had rubbed the paint off the nondrive side of the chainstay. I can grab the wheel and pull it into my chainstay on the non drive side. The bike is a 2005 MK III expert. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks for your reply. I am running the stock Mavic X 317 with WTB hubs. I did have my bike tuned up at local bike shop and he trued my wheels for me.At the time but I don't think it is going to help. There is about half the clearance on the nondrive side of the chainstay.There are no Ironhorse dealers within several hours so I can't compare tire clearance.The wheel seems to be rolling straight.
 

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Black Lion
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There is limited rear wheel clearence with pre-07 MKIII's. Coupled with the fact that the 317 rim/ WTB hub is a very flexy wheelset is a recipe for disaster. The tire will most likely rub the chainstay due to the wheel flex unless you run a skinny tire, or switch to stiffer rear wheel combo. I run a Mavic Deetrack rear wheel with bolt on rear axle and can run a tire as big as a Kenda Nevegal 2.3 with no contact what-so-ever due to flex.

It is what it is and it stinks for many folks.
Greg
 

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Huckability Consultant
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On my 06 MkIII expert I ran a Maxxis Highroller 2.35 for 1500-1700 miles in the second halve of 06 on the stock WTB/DT Swiss wheels. I have since upgraded to an $600 DT Swiss FR tubeless set. Neither wheelset gave me any problems with tire clearance (except in desert cake mud). But, I also have not suffered the chain rub/Chainstay problem that other users have complained about (in Mountain Bike Action). Perhaps my Large frame is exempt from such issues.
 

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I also run 2.25 cinders but have wtb speedidsc wheels. i get considerable rubbing on my non-drive side chainstay. it doesn't really bother me much though when riding. i put a piece of metallic tape on the tube so it would not wear through. i think you can order the '07 swingarm from ironhorse. if not get a stiffer wheel or just live with it.
 

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idtrailmonger said:
On my 06 MkIII expert stock WTB/DT Swiss wheels. But, I also have not suffered the chain rub/Chainstay problem that other users have complained about (in Mountain Bike Action). Perhaps my Large frame is exempt from such issues.
Ditto on the stock wtb/ dt swiss but w/ Continental 2.3 Gravity tires, Seven months and no marks. No large drops though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks for the advice. I'll look into hubs and chainstays and wheel dishing. I thought it was the same as truing.I'm almost 48 yrs young so I'm not "hucking Large" just trying go fast down the trail and I can't have my tire slowing me down. Thanks again.
 

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This is pretty basic, and you've probably already checked it, but I had the same thing happen with 2.3s on an older bike. What happened was I didn't install the rear wheel in the dropouts quite on center. Try loosening your quick release just a little and seeing if you can get your wheel in the center. If you haven't double-checked it's worth a shot anyway.......
 

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baggin ho's
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Yah, you onlee get ze rub ven you schtomp ze peduhls like me. zis topic has been chood ova manee toimes do a search. get downnnnnn!!!!

I did re-dish my stock POS wheel a bit and it helped, but I figure the fat groove in my chainstay just means my bike is lighter, thus faster.
 

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soccerjett said:
This is pretty basic, and you've probably already checked it, but I had the same thing happen with 2.3s on an older bike. What happened was I didn't install the rear wheel in the dropouts quite on center. Try loosening your quick release just a little and seeing if you can get your wheel in the center. If you haven't double-checked it's worth a shot anyway.......
10-4, I have to center the rear wheel on my '04 HollowPoint, like with my ss, before clamping down or it ends up wanky.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Thanks for the advice. I have had the rear wheel dished and trued but to no avail. The mechanic at the LBS said the wheel hub / combo is a flexy one but he felt he could make the problem go away by replacing the spokes with heavier ones at a cost of sixty bucks a wheel. I am not sure if I should try that. Think that will work or should I just buy new wheels?
 

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exc highsider said:
Thanks for the advice. I have had the rear wheel dished and trued but to no avail. The mechanic at the LBS said the wheel hub / combo is a flexy one but he felt he could make the problem go away by replacing the spokes with heavier ones at a cost of sixty bucks a wheel. I am not sure if I should try that. Think that will work or should I just buy new wheels?
$120 for what ya got or $200-$250 for a new set up. Flip a coin?
 
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