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Well, let me start by saying that any modifications you do will probably void your warranty. Second, let me say that Specialized taught me this mod and named it after Mr. McAndrews who designed their suspension systems. and lastly, it's only a washer people...it can be replaced, you can order a spare before you do it if you prefer.

So, today was the day for me to test ride my recent changes and let me say that for me, this is the best it has been yet. The small bump compliance was great on the flats, the drops felt solid, and high speed turns felt firmly connected to the trail. I did notice quite a bit of ramp up about half way through travel at first, so i lowered my spike valve setting to 45psi, and raised my spring setting to 95psi. Now I don't bottom out as long as i'm rolling forward...if i land flat and still, it bottoms still, but expected. I still notice the ramp up but it's more like low speed compresion...i mean when i press on it it feels sticky but when i ride it feel bottomless. There were so many changes to my ride lately it's hard to say what helped what, but my ride today was the most "xc" ride I've ever had on it. never did i feel like I was hunting squirel with a canon (how it had been before).

Now the fork has three distinct travel curves...
1. the top third is super plush, making roots and baby head rocks disappear at speeds. this is somewhat of a bad thing for out of the saddle sprinting, but it doesn't happen on the short travel setting; and there's always the compression knob ( that i never use) to mitigate that. Your hands and wrist will love the first 2"...
2. the next 2 inches is more of a platform that's very friendly for pedaling at low speeds, or an excellent fork dive preventive for riding the front brake on curvy descents. I like this ramp up here because it keeps my head angle slack when I'm rolling off stuff...I use to run really low rear shock pressure to do this, but now I can run appropriate psi's.
3. the last little bit is like an endless ramp up that makes the fork feel bottomless...note: i did nothing to do this, it's just how the spike valve works i guess; though i couldn't really take full advantage before because i ran a lower spring rate to compensate for lack of plushness. since i raised my spring's psi the rubber sag meter has gone nowhere near the max travel point.


all in all I say there is some room for improvement, but this was definitely worth the effort. much better that stock for me. if I weighed 40-60lbs more, I wouldn't think that this would help much...only really for lighter more XC riders who like having more bike than they need, like myself. Sure i could rock a 32 RLC, but i want uberstiff integration, with a personal, customizable feel..for the money the 08 enduro sl comp was quite a value. took me about a year to get things exactly how i want them, but all along the way it was still a great ride...the only bike i can describe as "point and shoot" (keep in mind i do photography for a hobby)
so final set up as follows :
E-150 fork, small/med size, lower crown raised to max hieght, upper crown about 3mm from top. spring cartridge stock, functional travel adjust, psi set to 95; Damper cartridge "mik modded" (1/8 inch gap in plunger seal) with 5wt oil; and 45 psi in the spike valve.
Enduro SL comp frame and AFR rear shock, all stock with the rear shock in the high BB/steep HA setting..roughly 75psi. in that one
mavic 819's with an xt rear hub and stock specialized front.
kenda nevegal 2.1 front and rear
MRP triple bashguard/chainguide XCG i think/bolt on type...
bike rails! I want new cranks, chain, and cassette, but i promissed myself i would at least try to put some wear on the stock stuff before dropping dollars...right now i got x9 shifters/rear der, SLX front der, and formula ORO Bianco brakes with mixmasters. (200F/160R) pics on the way, camera too full.:madman:
 

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Does anyone have a guide for the Mik Mod? I tried to do a search but the search doesn't pull anything up because there are only 3 characters in each word.
 

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remove the damper cartirdge, open the damper cartridge, pull out the shaft, SAVE ANY OIL that escapes, look for the white plastic flat ring on the internal piston, use a new bladed super sharp exacto knife and slowly/carfully cut that plastic ring at a 45 degree angle without cutting the metal or otherwise messing up that rings seating area, reassemble. This procedure is for a person who is an above average bicycle mechanic and has all the proper tools. The 45 degree cuts lets oil flow past the ring at low speeds.
 

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Have your LBS perform the "Mick Mod" Remove 2mm of band material at the same angle. This creates an additional oil flow port.
 

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speci- suspension tech - my LBS is sending my fork and shock to Specialized for an air cartridge replacement and lightweight negative spring replacement. Can the guys that are replacing my air cartridges perform this mod?
 

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Have your damper cartridge serviced if you have had a fair amount of ride time, they can perform the Mick mod during the service.
 

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Is the damping of the fork travel-depend, depending from the position of the damping? Or it is just HSC, LSC and Rebound ?
 
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