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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So, I've had the flu for the past three weeks and have only been on my bike twice. Since I can't ride it, and I've been going crazy, I've been messing with it. Stripped the black anno off; my Midge bars, my stem, my seatpost and collar.



I bought the Midge bars for cross season but I don't think my Jones H-bars are going make it back on the bike. Thanks to Brant and Shiggy for the best bars out there.
 

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how did you strip the anno off?

what did you use to strip it off? i would love to do that with my midge bars. silver is back!

thanks

FTM said:
So, I've had the flu for the past three weeks and have only been on my bike twice. Since I can't ride it, and I've been going crazy, I've been messing with it. Stripped the black anno off; my Midge bars, my stem, my seatpost and collar.



I bought the Midge bars for cross season but I don't think my Jones H-bars are going make it back on the bike. Thanks to Brant and Shiggy for the best bars out there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Thanks guys,
To answer a few questions:
The bike was Powder Coated at Spectrum (they also had the decals).

The fork is a custom WaltWorks inspired by the Fat City forks and built to the Bontrager's specs.

It wasn't too hard to remove the anno and bring out the shine (the stem was much harder). Bars took a little over an hour.

Instructions for remocing annodization:
** Disclaimer ** this process uses dangerous chemicals and actually removes some of the aluminum so do so at you own risk and don't blame a stranger on the internet.

You'll need original formula Extra Strength Easy Off Oven Cleaner (LYE), 400 & 600 wet dry sand paper, fine steel wool, Metal Polish.

Spread carboard in a well ventalated area (outside is best)
wear glove and eye protection when using oven cleaner

Heat Bars to 200 degrees in oven
Place bars on cardboard and spray Easy-Off liberally on bars.
Let set 10 minues then rinse off with soapy water.
Repeat steps until all the black is off - took me two times.
The bars should be a dull silver color.
Sand lightly with 400 grit, moving to 600 grit and the the steel wool.
Polish with Metal Polish and a soft rag or (as I did) a buffing disc on the end of my drill

I'll post a few pictures when I get back from my ride this morning.
 

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BontyHunter
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Nice Bonty!

I'd appreciate it if you could steer me in the right direction to get one of those head badges. Is your bike a steel Race Lite? I'm running Midges on my Ti Lite and loving it!

Cheers,
JahWind
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
JahWind said:
I'd appreciate it if you could steer me in the right direction to get one of those head badges. Is your bike a steel Race Lite? I'm running Midges on my Ti Lite and loving it!

Cheers,
JahWind
Yeah, those Midges are an amazing chage to the bike. I feel much more a part of the bike that just riding on it. Probably doesn't help that I'm a recovering roadie.

you can get the head badge

from Jennifer Green. Just click on the Bicycle Jewlery link to the right of the page for some more samples. She doesn't have the prices listed but send her an email she'll respond quickly. Great service. If I'm not mistaken, I believe that GrumpyOne is responsible for this design.

And, xrmattaz the magic ratio is indeed spelled ENO. I'm currently running 34:19.
 

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>Heat Bars to 200 degrees in oven


Isn't the heat treatment of aluminum also done at about 200 degrees?? (celsium that is)
Maybe trowing your bars in a hot offen weakens them!!

Perhaps someone working in the heat treatment industry knows more about this??? I have re-shaped cinelli bars by heating them in the oven, bending them and re-heating again!!

Steelhead
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
steelhead said:
>Heat Bars to 200 degrees in oven

Isn't the heat treatment of aluminum also done at about 200 degrees?? (celsium that is)
Maybe trowing your bars in a hot offen weakens them!!

Perhaps someone working in the heat treatment industry knows more about this??? I have re-shaped cinelli bars by heating them in the oven, bending them and re-heating again!!

Steelhead
Sorry, I should have been more specific. It is 200 degrees Farenheit which is 93 degrees Celsius. A temperature that would be pretty easy to get to by leaving the bars in my car for a while during a Southern California summer. The idea is to warm the bars up enough so that the Lye is more effective.

I'm not a metalugist but most heat treating processes that I know of use much higher temperatures. Precipitation Heat Treating (artificial aging) and that is still about 50-100 degrees higher and last hours not minutes. I will, however, defer to any real information about the detrimental effects of this little heat on the bars.

I'm more concerned about the Lye.
 
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