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In the pic it looks like the lug on the chainring is touching the crank arm. Moving the spider by one spline would stop that.
 

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Spooooon!
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Velobike said:
In the pic it looks like the lug on the chainring is touching the crank arm. Moving the spider by one spline would stop that.
I see what you are saying. The lug is right next to the crank arm. There is a depression where the arm meets the spider so there is really only one way to mount the arm. I've come to the conclusion that I'll try a 34t ring since the diameter of the ring is the main problem. I'm just hoping I don't have to go all the way to a 36t. I might have to get the triple spider and put the 32 on the middle position and then find a 30t for the granny mounting location.
 

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Can you bevel the edge of the ring for more clearance? I really can't see the problem too clearly. It doesn't look to be rubbing too much.

He isn't saying to rotate the spider. Rotate the ring on the spider. Many rings have a little nubby that indicates how to assemble them. You put all the ring's nubbies in the same orientation, and typically you put them behind the arm to hide them. This is to get all the shifting stuff working together.
 

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drev-il, not Dr. Evil!
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Hairllama said:
It seems that I can't run a 32t outer ring on a Middleburn dual spider since the crank arm gets in the way. Does anybody know if a 34t will fit or if I'll have to go as big as 36t? I was trying to set up a 32/30 double double driveline.
File the ring slightly so that it clears the crankarm. It'll work and nothing will implode.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Drevil said:
File the ring slightly so that it clears the crankarm. It'll work and nothing will implode.
I did that on an old steel ring that was thinner. It almost fits, but then the chain catches on the crank arm. Part of the problem is the shape of the spider, the other problem is the shape of the crank arm. I'd never worked with Middleburn stuff before. It's cool, but has a few compatibility issues. I'll snap some more pics later today to try to illustrate things better.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Schmucker said:
You put all the ring's nubbies in the same orientation, and typically you put them behind the arm to hide them. This is to get all the shifting stuff working together.
I know what you are talking about with regard to ramps and pins. The ring I'm using is the same all the way around, it's a SS ring. There won't be any derailleurs on this bike to do any shifting.
 

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I have attached a photo of my spare Middleburn cranks and spiders.

The 5 arm is positioned as it would fit on the adjacent crank. It should fit without interference problems from a chainring.

Sorry, I couldn't find the tool to take off the 4 arm so I could demonstrate it with the 5 arm on.
 

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Hairllama said:
I know what you are talking about with regard to ramps and pins. The ring I'm using is the same all the way around, it's a SS ring. There won't be any derailleurs on this bike to do any shifting.
Obviously, this is the SS forum and you said you were setting up a dingle. SS rings still may come with the nubby. I know my Blackspire has one. You can see it pretty clearly here.
http://images.channeladvisor.com/Sell/SSProfiles/43000189/Images/3/Blackspire Mono Veloce, 110.jpg
It is right under 11034.

Anyways, now that you've posted pics, it can be seen that you have Spot ring. They don't have the nubby. Your only solution is to increase the chainring size unless you want to try filing some grooves to clear the arm. They would have to be pretty deep and will probably result in chainring failure.
 

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Que je suis bete!
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not the spider's fault

It just wasn't designed to take a chainring that small on that side of the spider.
Measure twice, buy once. What I'm saying is, you have to be willing to ask a lot of questions concerning the desired result before buying, no matter how long it takes.
 
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