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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Driver from kaidomain.com
Assembly process cross post
MCE and P7 both using Boom SS
For P7 Boom SS is sanded to 11 mm in height and opening increased to 9 mm using step drill bit.
Camera set to "Night" Fuji A350 auto exposure of 2 seconds, determines own f-stop.
Bucket at 40 ft, 60 ft, fence at 75 ft

P7 C bin

P7 D bin

MCE J bin

MCE M bin

Trion 600 LED

Alias HID

Light Body
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Not sure.:crazy: Too much soldering fumes and retina burns from being LED flashed.:cool:
Cutter calls that halogen yellow looking one this though.
MCE4WT-A2-6B0-J0-0-00001 Warm white, 320 min lumens, E6
 

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The photo of the MC-E, M-bin I think was the most impressive of the lot as it looked to have a bit more spill compared to the P-7's. The P-7, D-bin was interesting in that it looks to be slightly warmer in color than the P-7 C-bin. The warmer color seems to bring out more detail in the terrain and looks very much like the MC-E M-bin. Up until now I didn't know there was a P-7, D-bin. I'm very impressed with the output of your build...:thumbsup: :thumbsup:
 

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Thanks for the pics. According to the EXIF data for the pics, they were all taken at f2.8, 2sec, ISO200, so they are an apples to apples comparison. I was surprised how well the MCE M bin did. The color of the MC-E does not look too cold either. The MCE J bin looks almost too warm which usually ends up looking dim in comparison to cooler LEDs IMO.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 · (Edited)
Cat- There is a very obvious difference in color between the C and D P7 when seen by eye. That difference even shows a little in the photos. The C is a blue-ish white harsh. The D is a little more natural looking. Much less harsh.

Huffy- The "J" really does look like a halogen. Some people like the halogen color. I think mixing the two would make for a tasty light. I can mount 2 lights on the helmet easily enough. Can't wait to go and blind my friends.
Thanks for the information on the pictures. I am going to play on google and see if I can figure out how you pulled that information out of the file. I would ask straight away, but it's good to have tried working through new information on your own for a bit. Sort of like all this LED stuff. :thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Nope, that is how it looks. Crappy light. Plan to rip out the emitters and put something decent in it. If it didn't suck so bad I probably wouldn't have been motivated to start building my own.
If you look closely at the HID picture you can see the striations in the light at the bottom right corner.
Besides I wrote down the light order as pictures taken.;)
 

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I spelled Knievel wrong
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Nice beamshots.

Do you know the tints of the LEDs you tested here? For both the P7 and the MC-E the bins you are referring to are "output" bins not "tint" bins. The color of the light has nothing to do with C,D,J or K.

P7 tint bins are "Sxx" and MC-E tint bins are "Wx" for the cold-white or an two digit alpha numeric code like "5D" or "7A" for the neutral and warm-white.

The J-bin MC-E puts out 320lm @ 350mA/die while the M bin MC-E hits 430lm @ 350mA/die, likewise the C bin P7 is lower output than the D bin.

A P7 with the CSVOx bin will be more natural (less blue) than a CSXOx bin, while a DSVOx will have the same tint as a CSVOx but puts out more light. Just wanted to clarify so that no one orders LEDs by output bin expecting a certain color of light.

The code from your Cutter order, MCE4WT-A2-6B0-J0-0-00001, means that LED is a "J" output bin and a "6B" tint which is very warm. A "J" bin with a "WH" tint would put out the same amount of light but be much whiter.

There is a great set of tint charts here.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
That information and more available at kaidomain site links.

Hopefully what you order and what you get are the same. I ordered the D's as a star but recieved bare emitters.

p7 D
p7 C
Cutter for MCE
MCE4WT-A2-0000-000M10 Cool white, 430 min lumens,WC Tint
MCE4WT-A2-6B0-J0-0-00001 Warm white, 320 min lumens, E6

That is the tricky part of the bin thing. Efficiency, tint, etc. Hopefully this helped to clarify things a bit.:thumbsup:
 

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There has got to be something wrong w/ your Trion 600. It is comparable to the Dinotte 600l, which is brighter than both the Seca and the Trinewt, all of which get good scores in the Lights Shootout. Are your lights that much better than all of those?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
All the lights are significantly brighter than the Trion. My buddy has the Cygolite TridenX Triple. My Trion looks as bright on the trails as his. His beam pattern is much better though.:thumbsup:
Using the HID and the Trion was to provide a reference for comparison. Most of us know what a HID looks like. The Trion was used since the makers claim it to be 600 lumens.
I will stick with homebrew lights from here on out.:)
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Yep,

On my first shot the flash went off. Felt pretty stupid.
Huffy has some neat abilty to pull that information out of the image file and verify that all settings were the same.
Nothing I have can peak inside the image data file. However I know its possible and how to do it now. I would just need to purchase a specific type of program for the computer.
Information always comes in handy sooner or later, so I owe Huffy for educating me.:thumbsup:
 

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sdnative said:
You have to set everything identical to be truly side by side comparable. Same Exposure time, Same F stop, Same ISO, same White Balance ...and obviously, no flash ..lol.
Agree!
A Fujifilm FinePix A350 has to set in manual mode to set the White Balance. Since these are shot in "Night" mode, the White Balance is automatic and the camera will compensate for the white balance of the light.

Geir
 
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