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Mountain Bike Action has an article in their April 2011 issue that addresses shedding bike weight wisely. What I thought was strange was a picture of a top cap/stem/bars and this caption: "Start at the top: You'd be surprised how much weight can be saved by switching to a lightweight top cap. It is a safe place to save weight.".

I want to be clear that I'm not bashing weight weenies. I like what is done in this forum and know that you have to shave grams wherever possible to achieve a truly ultralight bike. Having said that, how much weight can you actually save on a top cap???? The FSA top cap and bolt that came on my relatively budget priced Rocky Mountain hardtail weighs 16g. The top cap and bolt that came on my Specialized weighs 8g. It just seems strange that MBA would recommend that the average rider try to save such a small amount of weight. Are there some true boat anchor top caps out there like in the 45g range? I'm honestly confused.
 

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I think the magazine was just trying to appeal to the majority of riders without getting too in-depth. The experienced riders already know how to save weight, but the new riders are probably like "no way, that's such a good idea. It saves weight and looks sweet" or something similar. I read the article too. Not sure if what I just said makes sense or not. Now if you really want to save weight, don't run a top cap :thumbsup: after you adjust your headset bearings, the top cap really serves no purpose. Back when I rode bmx, we never used them. If you keep your stem bolts tight you won't have an issue. Not only do you save weight on the top cap, but you won't have a bolt either. Massive weight savings, great success! (Borat? Anyone?)
 

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How many holes did you drill?!? I can go out to my garage and drill 5 holes and still be back in 5 minutes :lol: I'd drill mine but it's a nice shiny Origin8 one in ano-green. Still too nice for me to destroy :thumbsup: plus I think my singlespeed rig weighs around 25 pounds (22" frame and down from 32 pounds) so weight doesn't bother me
 

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Seriously_tho said:
About (50) 1/64's holes...

Actually I drilled 1 hole that's 1.125". That really cut some weight.

(you know I'm kidding about this, right?)
I'd go for the revolver look if I drill mine, with like 6-10 larger holes evenly spaced around the cap, then sanded it to reveal the aluminum finish and smooth out the holes.
 

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If you are relly religious about weight saving, why don't you just remove top cap once the stem install. The top cap utility is realy just to preload the headset bearing, once the stem is bolt you could just remove it with the star nut! Just fill the holl with light carbon plug so you don't hurt yourself. How much weight a star nut, bolt and cap? in the best case maybe 30g.


But a real weight weenie doesn't care about crash our injury. Otherwise they would use efficient parts rather than extra light parts...
 

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lapinGTI said:
If you are relly religious about weight saving, why don't you just remove top cap once the stem install. The top cap utility is realy just to preload the headset bearing, once the stem is bolt you could just remove it with the star nut! Just fill the holl with light carbon plug so you don't hurt yourself. How much weight a star nut, bolt and cap? in the best case maybe 30g.

But a real weight weenie doesn't care about crash our injury. Otherwise they would use efficient parts rather than extra light parts...
Already been suggested dude. . .
 

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