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Maxima Chain Wax

8631 Views 14 Replies 10 Participants Last post by  frank daleview
I went to the moto store with my buddy and checked out some there chain lubes--I found this stuff called Maxima Chain wax. I know that most high performance moto chains are sealed with o-rings etc. but this stuff says it's good for non and o-ring equiped chains. It also boasted to be excellent in wet & humid conditions (ala Michigan). I couldn't resist; so I cleaned and sprayed it on my chain as per the instructions wiped off the excess, let it "set up", and took for a spin. This is by far the quietest I've ever had my drive train even my riding buddies noticed how quiet it was. I've used R&R extreme on my mtb with disapointment, that stuff doesn't last long and makes a lot of noise. I use prolink on my road bike which works well, i.e. is quiet and last a long time as long as it's dry. But I can definitely say my mtb is quieter now than my road bike. Has any one else tried this stuff?
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I use maxima chain wax on my Rm-z 450's Renthal Chain, and it seems to work pretty well. I change the chain about every 2 months though so I don't get to see any long term effects it has on chain life. I'll try it on my mtb. bike tonight and see if it makes a difference, there is a considerable amount of drivetrain noise since i put a new chain on my mtb. bike last week.
Maxima Chain wax is designed to melt into the chain when it gets hot as in motorcycle hot from the chain spinning from the engine torque. It won't penetrate deep enough into your bushings with the minimal amount of heat produced from your 1/4 hp biomechanical engine which will result in premature wear.
crockpot technique

Can't vouch for this, just passing along something I was told. A fellow MTBr said he used to slow cook his chains in wax in a crockpot to get the wax into the bushings. Low setting, all day. Said he loved the results. Did it in his garage because hot wax can definitely be a fire hazard. I myself would think twice about ever doing this without being present because I don't like the idea of leaving a potential fire hazard unattended. Have any of you ever tried this method?
So far so good... very quiet seems and to last a long time. I'm willing to sacrifice a chain to see if it is any different. I talked to another moto guy and he said the same thing you said, but who knows could work. He also said to try treating with something like tri-flow first and then put the wax over it for durability. One thing is for certain thus far though; my drive train definitely shifts more smoothly than it ever has before.
We (friends and I) used to do the parafin wax and double broiler thing back in th BMX days. White chains were all the rage and lubing them looked terrible.

It works well, and actually silences some of the drive train noise. The only problem is that this is a good 30-45 minute process. After about the 5th time you do it, lube starts looking a lot better.

BTW, try pre-lubing or mixing oil in with the wax - it softens up the wax and makes it hold to the chain longer.
iceaxe said:
So far so good... very quiet seems and to last a long time. I'm willing to sacrifice a chain to see if it is any different. I talked to another moto guy and he said the same thing you said, but who knows could work. He also said to try treating with something like tri-flow first and then put the wax over it for durability. One thing is for certain thus far though; my drive train definitely shifts more smoothly than it ever has before.
A bit off the topic but I saw you mention TriFlow + wax. That's the technique I've been using with my chains for a couple of years now. Starting with a clean chain, apply one drop of TriFlow on each link of the chain, actually taking trouble to wipe the tip of the oil container across (perpendicular) the top of each link, I try not to get the oil on the plates in between the links. Followed by a wipe down with a clean cloth to remove any excess. Finally a thorough application of a wax, usually White Lightning and a wipe down once set. This might seem a bit of trouble but I've been in 24 hour races in wet conditions in the middle of the night passing people left right and centre who are suffering from chain such and shifting problems all over the place. I almost keep this as a secret from fellow competitors I reckon it works so well.
I used to wax chains back in the 80's when a "narrow" chain was for a 7-speed drive train. It worked really well for road chains...sort of. Couple of points about it:

(1) The technique...paraffin in a pot, directly on a low-medium electric burner. Huge fire hazard, of course. The paraffin has to get hot enough to get thin and runny, so that it does not stick to the sides of the pan. Then you drop in either a new or mostly cleaned up or previously waxed chain that is ready for re-treatment. It should sit on the bottom of the pan long enough to get as hot as the sides of the pan itself...meaning that very little wax will stick to it, too. Then you carefully agitate the chain. No "shake it in a bottle" here, but it is not needed. The hot wax penetrates the bushings and a little agitation displaces any old lube or wax that was in there, and flushes out any dirt particles that might have worked there way in. You don't need to slow cook these things...the wax has to be hot so I only let them sit for 15 minutes or so. And forget the double boiler...the wax won't get hot enough and all you have is a waxy mess on the outside, nothing on the inside where it is needed. After the chain has been stewed and stirred, you carefuly remove it with a bent coat hanger and wipe all of the excess wax off of the outside of the chain with a rag. (You are wearing gloves, of course.) The chain will be very hot, and the hot wax will not stick to the outside surfaces, so if you pull it out and wipe it down quickly you'll be left with a clean shiny chain with wax inside the bushings and only a very light residual coat of wax on the outside.

This is way more hassle than any other form of chain lube, so I would do it to 3-4 chains at a time.

(2) The result...on a road bike with 7-speed (old-school, now) chains, this worked great for me. In dry riding conditions (California) it would last around 500 miles before the chain started to squeak. The chain stayed show-room clean and shiny (I always got comments) and when I got flats, which happened all the time with the tires we rode back then, your hands stayed clean when you had to mess with the rear wheel. The freewheel and the derailleur jockey wheels were also always clean and was very nice.

(3) The rainy ride and the lube job was toast. Not really a big deal if you prepare several chains at once, just pop on a fresh one before the next ride, or hit it with some real lube and ride it dirty until you can put on a clean one.

(4) But...when I made the jump from old-school 7spd to Campy 9-speed back in 2000, I tried it and the results were disappointing. Didn't last long and didn't seem to keep the chain as quiet when it was working. My limited research suggests that maybe as the chains got narrower and lighter, there has been some changes to the design of the internal wear surfaces (less bearing surface, maybe not the full length of the pin in some cases?). This causes the chains to wear out much faster than the old style for starters (I mean, come on...1500-2000 miles on a chain and it's toast???). So whatever changes that gave us lighter 9 and 10 speed drivetrains also seems to have reduced the effectiveness of this technique.

And I was very sad...even as I was snick-snick-snick shifting down the road from the brake levers on a close-range Campy 9 speed it was not a total loss. :)

(5) Now about MTB chains...I never even considered it with the old school chains. A couple of puddles and it was over. I imagine that it would have handled the summer dust and dirt OK, probably better than an oily chain since crud would not stick to the chain and every other drivetrain surface, but since I ride MTB more in the winter, I didn't bother.

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Dad Man,

What you say makes sense. We appreciate you sharing your first-hand knowledge.:thumbsup:
I used Maxima wax for the first half of this season and I did find it quiet but I found that it started to get realy gummy on the cogs and rings. I have since switched back to Tri flow teflon dry lube and couldn't be happier. I might have to apply it more often but I never need to clean my chain or rings.
I did a search I found that these guys were using it too.
I just ordered Maxima chain guard that I will use as the first coat and Maxima wax as outer. (Not to concerned about the heat up thing.)
The real thing is, I've been using allot of different lubes since the start of the year and they are all gone now but the chain wax (even though I've been using it quite a bit is still 1/2 full for 8 dollars for @ 15 ounce spray can.)
Thats why I have settled on it verses t-9, Ice Wax, etc., etc.
(I had used a semi wet bicycle lube as inner and sealed with chain wax as outer to attract less dirt.)
Thanks for the report. A few questions:

(1) Have you noticed any excessive accumulation of waxy gunk on the rings and cogs (and jockey wheels) like Johnny Hair Boy reported? If so was it just cosmetic or did it start to create shifting problems?

(2) The MBAction review reported that they were using a penetrating lube (Maxima MPPL) for the first coat. Is that the same stuff you ordered?

(2) Did you get the stuff locally or mail order it, if so from whom?

Thanks in advance for your replies.
Chain wax works bonus on cleats and pedals. The local moto shop doesn't carry it any more. I really liked the stuff cause it made my clipless pedals work in the gooey stuff that comes with the rain.

Here are my observations from the last three months:

I've had some chain suck problems on my bikein the past--nothing crazy-just during "emergency" down shifts; I haven't had one single incident of chain suck since I started using the Maxima Wax. I've applied it to a bare, clean chain, and a chain pre-treated with triflow. Results in terms of longevity and performance are about the same. As one poster noted, this stuff does have a tendency to build up, which is why I highly recomend against excessive application, and I recomend wipping off the excess after it sets up-this gets rid of 90% of the problem. It lasts longer than R&R and Prolink, esp. in wet conditions. Overall, I'm very happy with it and plan to continue using it.
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