[pahearn]

Hey all:

Has anyone heard from Mavic about their recommended spoke tension for these rims, or any personal recommendations based on your own findings?

I don't understand why it's so damn hard to get these numbers. For something that's pretty important, I would have thought it would be something listed in the product specs or somewhere on their website, but no. What's more, it seems the question "Does anyone know the recommended spoke tension for the X rim?" is one of the most UNANSWERED questions asked on MTBR or anywhere else!

If all else fails I guess I'll go with something like ~111Kgf as Park suggests for 1.8mm spokes (I'm lacing with 2.0/1.8/2.0 DTs), but this kind of blind guessing is for the birds IMO. How do I know I can't go tighter and build a better wheel? :skep:

I'm starting to miss the 80's and my heavy Skyway mags.

-pete

 

[AndrewTO]

Answer;

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=88448&highlight=mavic

I built up a King/DT SuperComp/XC717 wheelset last fall/winter and ended up at ~120 Kgf. They held up fine, but i'm light (165 loaded) and don't beat the crap out of my bike. I try to ride smooth.

I have another wheel build coming soon, but i'll be aiming for a lower tension. The 120 range is just too damn stiff and punishing to ride (and it's a rigid bike).

 

[pahearn]

Thanks Andrew, I don't know how many post searches I went through before I asked the question, and of course didn't see that one. Cool.

-pete

 

[dipper]

whats wrong with just building them 'real tight'? I'm no expert but i've built in excess of 50 pairs of wheels now and have never used a tensioner(and no I've not had any reliabilty issues) and neither does the wheelbuilder who taught me(15+ years of wheelbuilding under his belt)

I think you'll find that the reason this question goes unanswered is because it's not that important. As long as you've pulled them all up evenly and are tight, true and destressed then you should be fine.

 

[AndrewTO]

whats wrong with just building them 'real tight'? I'm no expert but i've built in excess of 50 pairs of wheels now and have never used a tensioner(and no I've not had any reliabilty issues) and neither does the wheelbuilder who taught me(15+ years of wheelbuilding under his belt)

I think you'll find that the reason this question goes unanswered is because it's not that important. As long as you've pulled them all up evenly and are tight, true and destressed then you should be fine.

Well, I don't know about the "real tight" part, at least not with regards to wheels, but I agree with what you say about not needing a tensiometer. I built wheels in the '90's and never had the money (or desire) to get one ..... wheels came out fine.

Only reason I bought one now was because I could afford one and wanted to "experience the experience". I don't use it untill I believe i'm done - then it's a "double check device". I still prioritize trueness and roundness above tension, though.

pete - good luck with it and let us know how it works out for you, eh?!?!?!??! :thumbsup:

 

[Ratt]

Laced up 717 disc about 2 years ago, tensioned till it felt right. Just checked them a couple of months ago with a borrowed tensiometer, 125 kgf. 3k mi on them and they are doing fine but I'd say i did them a bit tight, 110-120 seems like it would be better.

Spoke tension is kinda important, you can over tension a wheel and crack the nipple hole or potato chip the wheel during the build. Non-eyelet rims like Stans use a relatively low tension ~ 90 kgf and i don't think will last too long if laced to 125+ kgf.

Other wheelbuilders on this site recommend using a tensiometer early and often during your build up and go slow. Time is on your side. They believe even spoke tension in a new wheel is the key to a long lasting wheel.