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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
This thread will be used to answer questions as well as a place for Marzocchi to add technical info. It will be slow in the making only due to other work obligations but rest assured we will do what we can to get you the info and help you need.

Thanks and don't forget to get out of the house and ride!!

Here's a schematic and basic instructions for changing the travel on a 55R from 140 to 160mm
 

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:lol:

Wow, I nudged the wagon off the hill in the other thread. Sorry guys!

My two cents: Tom, keep it positive and kill them with kindness and service whenever you can. Think Miracle on 34th St. :lol:

I'll keep my eyes peeled for other Marzocchi deals. Thanks for the info.

HERE'S A TECH QUESTION:

I have an old Z3 Bomber 80mm. Any way to increase travel? Are springs and dampers still available? Can Air Assist be added? The fork works fine and I might use it for a hardtail / pump track / VERY light DJ bike. Just wondering what I can do to mod it.

Thanks!
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bomber Z3 80mm

Fuzz541 said:
:lol:

Wow, I nudged the wagon off the hill in the other thread. Sorry guys!

My two cents: Tom, keep it positive and kill them with kindness and service whenever you can. Think Miracle on 34th St. :lol:

I'll keep my eyes peeled for other Marzocchi deals. Thanks for the info.

HERE'S A TECH QUESTION:

I have an old Z3 Bomber 80mm. Any way to increase travel? Are springs and dampers still available? Can Air Assist be added? The fork works fine and I might use it for a hardtail / pump track / VERY light DJ bike. Just wondering what I can do to mod it.

Thanks!
Yeah I'll try to keep a cool head, still no garantees, JK;)

Yes a Z3 80mm can be increased to 100mm. We also make a air assist cap for it (part # 701519) I am not sure if we have the parts in stock. Give us a call and they can check stock. 661-257-6630

Cheers!
 

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i have a problem adjusting the rebound damp, I always thought that I had to adjust it with the ETA knob, but I just realize that I was wrong because the rebound adjustment its on the right leg and when I turn the adjuster it feels endless and it doesn’t make any difference, the fork it’s a marzocchi Z1 FR QR20 year 2004 and I bought it with a used bike, the bike works great and that’s the only problem that I`m having, and it sucks because there`s no a marzocchi service in town, not even in the country hehe anyways thanks guys
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
rodrigobarr said:
i have a problem adjusting the rebound damp, I always thought that I had to adjust it with the ETA knob, but I just realize that I was wrong because the rebound adjustment its on the right leg and when I turn the adjuster it feels endless and it doesn’t make any difference, the fork it’s a marzocchi Z1 FR QR20 year 2004 and I bought it with a used bike, the bike works great and that’s the only problem that I`m having, and it sucks because there`s no a marzocchi service in town, not even in the country hehe anyways thanks guys
Your rebound adjustment should bottom out or stop when you reach the maximum setting. Have you tryed to righty tighty the adjuster knob until it stops? If you have and have reached maximum, then I would guess (cuase I don't have it here) that it is low on oil. Try that and let us know.

Thanks for stopping by.....we will help!!!
 

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Hey Cool! Thanks for being here, seriously. I cannot seem to get full travel from my new 55ETA. I have isolated the problem to the TST micro. Is this a sealed air cartridge? I love the fork otherwise...thanks!
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
rodrigobarr said:
Don`t u think that dires could help eachother when they have problems, specially if there`s no help around town or country, i live in chile and theres no one that can help me down here, thanks

There's a lot of help via the net. You can ask here, ask via PM or ask on www.marzocchiusa.com. Each piont will get you answers. We are working on and will have a new site in a a few months or so that will have everything and/or the potential to have it.
 

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Listen up Cobbers !

This thread is for Marzocchi Tech Department to give us the good oil and to help you out :thumbsup:.

MTD is providing a valuable technical resource and has provided his time to help You out.

Be thankful and use it wisely. If your feathers get ruffled.... well too bad :p.

Off-topic and negative posts will be deleted in this thread :) :D :)

Have a nice day and ride hard :)
 

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One month old Corsa SL WC 08 here.
Forks showed significant stiction from the beginning, but I assumed was normal break in.
there seems to be a few threads about Corsa stiction:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=360975
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=3506921
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=385596

I'm 200# so I set it up according to the ATA setup file with 130/175 in SFA/PAR. Had a couple races so far and more than 20 rides. The forks shows about 5 mm of play at the top. I mean if I grab the arch and the crown with one hand and I squeeze the forks compress by about 5mm.

I try to see if I can get rid of this, so I reset the SFA pressure and then the PAR, both down to 0PSI and the proceed to pump up both back to 130/175, taking care of pumping PAR first.

After doing this the travel is reduced to 87mm, no matter what pressure i put in the two chambers. If I deflate again both chambers forks compress to less than 50mm. (the yellow zip tie shows where the forks compress with no air in it)

In addition to that now the forks makes a clunky noise when compressing.
I'll call the customer support on Monday. Any suggestions on what to try meanwhile?

I'm tempted to take it apart, change oil and put it back together: usually oil levels in brand new Marz forks are wrong (this is my 4th Marz forks, that's how I know)

Thx
ZT
 

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Marzocchi Tech Department said:
Your rebound adjustment should bottom out or stop when you reach the maximum setting. Have you tryed to righty tighty the adjuster knob until it stops? If you have and have reached maximum, then I would guess (cuase I don't have it here) that it is low on oil. Try that and let us know.

Thanks for stopping by.....we will help!!!

i did righty tight the right adjuster but its endless, it doesn`t reach a maximum setting, i press on the air valve and no oil came out either, so u think that the problem its a lack of oil¿?¿? what about the endless adjuster problem¿?¿?
thanks for helping me i apreciate it
 

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Few questions: my springrate on my 66rc3 is way to strong for me. I weigh 170lbs, when will lighter springs be available.

As far as tuning my 66rc3 goes, I'm having difficulty getting it where I want it to be. I'm not much of a hucker - I want it to be pretty linear throughout the travel. I like running fairly low HSC and really high LSC (with pretty maxed out rebound at 7.5w stock oil, fork just rebuilt by marzocchi). Basically, I learned DH on a 130mm travel HT and I'd rather the bike loses a little small bump sensitivity and remains alot more stable in its travel. I've played with oil weights and heights as well as the compression (my experience with the air adjuster in the rc3 knob felt like it made it alot more progressive and stiffer. Given my springrate is way to high, I get about 4-5 inches of travel if i have anything in there I stopped playing with that).

Where I am right now:

Setting the oil weight at 5 made the fork pretty divey and was very difficult to stay stable. I like 7.5 weight pretty well.

No difficulty setting oil height, I like to bottom out about 1-3 times on a rough DH track (think tunnel in SB if you've been there).

To get the LSC to an acceptable level, I run about 12 clicks of compression, which makes the fork feel pretty harsh on multiple hits (even with max rebound - slow rebound is even worse). To get the slightest amount sensitivity on the high speed harsh hits, I run about 7 clicks of comp, and every time I touch my front brake (or attack a burm hard) the front end dives pretty excessively (3-4 inches of change) where the rear is closer to 1-2. (Giant Glory 0)

A lighter springrate would help with my sag I'm sure (i'd like to be running about 20%), but I'm thinking I'll still probably have problems with my comp damping.

I'm a professional mech, I have no difficulty pulling my fork apart and messing with shims, even doing something with different oil weights would be fine (I don't want to go much heavier then 7.5, rebound is already slightly to slow for my taste), any advice on helping me set the LSC alot higher without significantly increasing HSC?

Thanks, Will
 

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I just bought a new but old (shop display) 2004 Z1 FR SL (Fully air sprung, one leg as adjustable damping (ECC5) other leg also has negative air) about 3 weeks ago. I have used this just twice, and from new it has 2 problems, which I now have properly identified.

a) Negative air leaks into positive air chamber.
b) Damping only works if the fork is repeatedly pumped (cycled) up and down, after some seconds of non-use e.g. riding on a flat surface, there is NO rebound damping for the first few (4-5) bumps, and the shock tops out nastily. It seems that the oil is draining from the cartridge?

I HAVE to do all the work myself - so if any Marzocchistas could advise the following:

What needs to be done to fix the air leak - is it a simple o-ring replacement, and if so, where would this be?
The "delayed" damping - is this a symptom of low oil? There are no visible leaks and the shock, while old, was never fitted to a bike - it was new.

Many thanks in advance for any help!
 
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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Mtn. Biker123 said:
Hey Cool! Thanks for being here, seriously. I cannot seem to get full travel from my new 55ETA. I have isolated the problem to the TST micro. Is this a sealed air cartridge? I love the fork otherwise...thanks!

cut and pasted from the PM you sent me.....

Originally Posted by Mtn. Biker123
Tom, can we put the guns down for a minute? Regardless of everything else I am appealing to you from a customer standpoint. I still need to get a few more months out of this fork. For the sake of ending this thing all together, I really need the info to fix my fork. I understand your irritated with the situation, how do you think I feel? I purchased a first year product from you thinking that this was going to be the comeback. I put every bit of faith into it only to have ongoing, multiple issues all in the first five months of owning this thing. I am getting used to the overall feel of the fork and it is fine, it will do, but I am only getting approx 145mm of travel. Is this normal. Does the TST micro control bottom out? If so is there a possibility that the air cart is overcharged? Is it an oil height thing? I have not looked inside the fork, remember what happened last time? I am trying to follow a measure of courtesy here. Can you help me out?

Bryan


Hi Bryan,
I'm out of the country in Taiwan right now so sorry for the delay in replying. I'll help with tech questions all day. (forgot to add that I'd love to hook and ride with you...I would feel a lot better after the ride!;) )

Let's see if I can help you from a product sense. I can't argue well anyways.

So your fork is only getting 145mm travel.... For your knowledge, the ETA does control bottom out via the open bath it has. I would first check one thing before adjusting oil hieght there. It will require unscrewing the top caps on both sides and compressing the fork. You will need to remove the TST micro knobs via the 2mm set screw in the gold knob. The ETA side is a full oil bath so beware that if you lay the bike down or compress the fork rapidly you could spill some oil from that side. Now with the fork top caps unscrewed, push the TST micro cartridge down into the fork with the fork remaining compressed and make sure it will compress' all the way to the top of the crown. If it does then we have eliminated the TST Micro from being your limiter on travel. If it doesn't that's the problem (the reason I am in Taiwan too)
The next step, if TST is compressing fully, is to remove a small amount of oil from the ETA side. You can do it without removing the spring but you only want to remove about 5cc's. That's about a table spoon, maybe a hint more. You can even lean the bike over to do this. Do it with a rag wrapped around the top of the crown and just let some oil soak into the rag. That should do it. It's not very accurate but will tell the tale. If you want to do it 100% accurately you would need to remove the spring. I think in your case you could do the above rag technique and figure out what the dealio is. Now just extend the fork and tighten the caps, repressure the ETA side to your perfered pressure and give it a rip. You will hear a bang if you get full travel. It's ok, not ideal, but ok. If it does make a load bang and get full travel now you will want to add a bit of oil back to the fork, it just has to be less than what you removed.

Give that a try, all you need is a 2mm allen, ETA needs a 2.5mm allen I believe (sometimes they press on too), a freewheel tool, and a rag.

Let me know how that works.

peace
TR
 
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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
rodrigobarr said:
i did righty tight the right adjuster but its endless, it doesn`t reach a maximum setting, i press on the air valve and no oil came out either, so u think that the problem its a lack of oil¿?¿? what about the endless adjuster problem¿?¿?
thanks for helping me i apreciate it

If the adjuster spins then it could only be two things, 1 the knob isn't engaging the knob, and two the cartridge is broken.

Remove the knob, unscrew both top caps, compress the fork, and then pull up on the rebound side of the cartridge. If it comes out in your hand, the cartridge is broken. If not then it's the knob spinning, IMO.

Is there any rebound damping?
 
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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Zen_Turtle said:
One month old Corsa SL WC 08 here.
Forks showed significant stiction from the beginning, but I assumed was normal break in.
there seems to be a few threads about Corsa stiction:
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=360975
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?p=3506921
http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=385596

I'm 200# so I set it up according to the ATA setup file with 130/175 in SFA/PAR. Had a couple races so far and more than 20 rides. The forks shows about 5 mm of play at the top. I mean if I grab the arch and the crown with one hand and I squeeze the forks compress by about 5mm.

I try to see if I can get rid of this, so I reset the SFA pressure and then the PAR, both down to 0PSI and the proceed to pump up both back to 130/175, taking care of pumping PAR first.

After doing this the travel is reduced to 87mm, no matter what pressure i put in the two chambers. If I deflate again both chambers forks compress to less than 50mm. (the yellow zip tie shows where the forks compress with no air in it)

In addition to that now the forks makes a clunky noise when compressing.
I'll call the customer support on Monday. Any suggestions on what to try meanwhile?

I'm tempted to take it apart, change oil and put it back together: usually oil levels in brand new Marz forks are wrong (this is my 4th Marz forks, that's how I know)

Thx
ZT
For my info, compress the fork with no air then as it gets stiff, try to let more air out of the top and bottom. Does it get full travel now? If it doesn't I would lean towards the TST cartridge being over filled and being the limiting factor. That's a tough one without a little more trouble shooting....sorry for the troubles. We'll try to figure this out.

Cheers<
Tom
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
006_007 said:
Nice work on ditching the not so professional avatar. Not saying it wasn't funny, but as a representative or a company it showed a little bit of lashing out at someone you were afraid of.

Not so sure this thread will be used (only) to answer questions / Marzocchi to add technical info (dont they have their own website for that?) but between it, and the other 3 or 4 threads that each have 8 plus pages on the subject there are a few items that are useful. Perhaps we can get one of the mods to highlight those areas?

Will now take your advice and go for a ride. :thumbsup:
I am going to try to get more info to post here too so not to worry about all the info on the other threads.

As far as the not professional avatar. This is the same as the Huck the Establishment bumper stickers and using half naked chicks for advertizing. What can you expect? Maybe I should use this one....:thumbsup:

We are checking our attitude at the door from now on but humor is the only thing that will get me through this alive! I really liked that one. :D
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
William42 said:
Few questions: my springrate on my 66rc3 is way to strong for me. I weigh 170lbs, when will lighter springs be available.

As far as tuning my 66rc3 goes, I'm having difficulty getting it where I want it to be. I'm not much of a hucker - I want it to be pretty linear throughout the travel. I like running fairly low HSC and really high LSC (with pretty maxed out rebound at 7.5w stock oil, fork just rebuilt by marzocchi). Basically, I learned DH on a 130mm travel HT and I'd rather the bike loses a little small bump sensitivity and remains alot more stable in its travel. I've played with oil weights and heights as well as the compression (my experience with the air adjuster in the rc3 knob felt like it made it alot more progressive and stiffer. Given my springrate is way to high, I get about 4-5 inches of travel if i have anything in there I stopped playing with that).

Where I am right now:

Setting the oil weight at 5 made the fork pretty divey and was very difficult to stay stable. I like 7.5 weight pretty well.

No difficulty setting oil height, I like to bottom out about 1-3 times on a rough DH track (think tunnel in SB if you've been there).

To get the LSC to an acceptable level, I run about 12 clicks of compression, which makes the fork feel pretty harsh on multiple hits (even with max rebound - slow rebound is even worse). To get the slightest amount sensitivity on the high speed harsh hits, I run about 7 clicks of comp, and every time I touch my front brake (or attack a burm hard) the front end dives pretty excessively (3-4 inches of change) where the rear is closer to 1-2. (Giant Glory 0)

A lighter springrate would help with my sag I'm sure (i'd like to be running about 20%), but I'm thinking I'll still probably have problems with my comp damping.

I'm a professional mech, I have no difficulty pulling my fork apart and messing with shims, even doing something with different oil weights would be fine (I don't want to go much heavier then 7.5, rebound is already slightly to slow for my taste), any advice on helping me set the LSC alot higher without significantly increasing HSC?

Thanks, Will
I sent you a PM about the spring. ;)

As far as the HSC and Low speed compression, it's going to be really hard to tune HSC and LSC seperately. You can use the adjuster to dial your HSC but LSC is what it is. You can't get into the cartrdge and tweak anything....I wish too. I'll fiddle with one and see if there is a modification that can be done to create a better feeling. :thumbsup: I tryed some BOSS cartridges in a 35mm 888 fork and wow those things are dreamy but cha ching they would hurt the pocket book if they made them for a 66. What to buy a semi used 888 BOSS fork? JK:p

Maybe you could try a 10 wt and back out the adjuster to get a different feel from your HSC/LSC. The LSC is what it is but maybe some free bleed through the adjuster will create a feeling that is more to your liking.

Of course if you get softer spring you will have to throw all this info out the window and start again. The spring will create different forces that will effect all your damping settings.


I like tunnel too!!!

How's the rear end sag on your bike? Maybe you could increase that some to even it out. It would be sweet if you could adjust your rear brake to make the rear end squat and you would be money. Maybe even lower the oil hieght and add a little air for your LSC.
 
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
robarco said:
I just bought a new but old (shop display) 2004 Z1 FR SL (Fully air sprung, one leg as adjustable damping (ECC5) other leg also has negative air) about 3 weeks ago. I have used this just twice, and from new it has 2 problems, which I now have properly identified.

a) Negative air leaks into positive air chamber.
b) Damping only works if the fork is repeatedly pumped (cycled) up and down, after some seconds of non-use e.g. riding on a flat surface, there is NO rebound damping for the first few (4-5) bumps, and the shock tops out nastily. It seems that the oil is draining from the cartridge?

I HAVE to do all the work myself - so if any Marzocchistas could advise the following:

What needs to be done to fix the air leak - is it a simple o-ring replacement, and if so, where would this be?
The "delayed" damping - is this a symptom of low oil? There are no visible leaks and the shock, while old, was never fitted to a bike - it was new.

Many thanks in advance for any help!
It sounds like low oil height on the ECC5 side. Try to check it. Unscrew the caps, compress the fork fully, push the top of the cartridge down, set it about 40-45 mm from the top of the stanchion. Use the end of a zip tie to measure.

As far as the air leak. Give us a call and we can give you the part numbers and hopefully sell you the parts. You might need to go through a shop for th parts though. 661-257-6630
 

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Many thanks Marzocchi!

I will check the oil. As far as the air leak goes - it seems to be holding up a bit better. Last I used it, from Wed - Sun the neg dropped to 80-ish and the pos went up to 70-ish :eek: - from same Sun to today, although I have not checked pressures and just rode round the block, the fork feels like there is still plenty of negative in it so maybe it will hold up.

In case not - I am not in the US and while on this little rock where I live we have a couple (precisely a couple) of Marz resellers, (clarification - a couple of bike shops selling the occasional Marzocchi fork or bikes that come with them) none of them really has a clue about servicing or supply of parts, so we are generally left to fend for ourselves - well, in case it won't hold out - is it an o-ring issue (maybe it has taken a "set") or is it more than that? I can source pretty much any size or grade of o-ring thankfully.

I am quite OK at DIY but as always knowing your target in advance helps considerably.

Thanks once again...
 
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