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· thats right living legend
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I Have Your Answer...

sixsixtysix said:
But there is still and issue of the foot nut on the spring side. I cannot for the life of me get that thing to tighten down. It just spins around and around. I cranked the preload on the spring all the way up, had someone compress the fork to try to hold it in place and nothing, still spinning. I just don't want another incident like the first time where it comes off and dumps the oil.

Any suggestions?
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You need a (Husky 3/8" Butterfly impact wrench) from Home Depot. It's their house brand, and I think it's around $50.00. Set it "BETWEEN" settings 1 and 2. You'll need access to an air compressor.

This is what Zoke tech uses themselves in the setting above. I bought one, and all my troubles disappeared in seconds. It makes changing oil, or opening your fork for any reason TROUBLE FREE!

Your welcome.
 

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Discussion Starter · #42 · (Edited)
I agree too!

davep said:
Agreed 110% BUT then why do you only make volumes available??????????????????????

You guys would be very well served to put together a small Marz USA site that had some actual tech info. That travesty that is currently up (Marz inc home site) is an absolute void of any useful technical info.

Most of the stuff/info you would need is already being provided to the world at large by the UK distibutor (Windwave). Why is there such a destinct policy to keep helpful information away from US consumers????????????????

ALL of your competition makes service info, part numbers, rebuild guides, trouble shooting, FAQ, tuning help, etc, etc available.

I used to be a Marz fan, but this issue alone has moved me to other brands, and I will not be back until Marz comes to terms that this info NEEDS to be shared with the consumer.
Believe me you are being heard! :cool:

Windwave does a great job trying to educate the consumers. Marzocchi USA is just a distributor too. Just because BM (the big cheese) lives here doesn't make it all knowing. Our product is engineered in Italy, concepts come from the field. BM is the man with the concept, Italy pulls it off. We are just like windwave in the way we market and provide info, however we do not have a person dedicated to this task (seems like I have been thrown to the sharks) and we've relied on Italy to produce this information. Being an employee of Marzocchi USA (24-7), I appoligize (for Marzocchi) for this short coming. I wish it was different.

The best thing we, Marzocchi USA, can offer is a helpful hand and our (at times) personal knowledge. There aren't any service instructions unless we make them ourselves just like the video in Italian of the guy changing the oil in his ATA. We have schematics and part numbers. We don't have every part, all the time.

We ride. We try stuff and we break stuff, Oh cool. (sorry personal vent:madman: :nono: :D )...I'm back.

More info....
As far as the whole volumes vs. hieghts thing...that's the way forks are built.It doesn't mean it will be perfect for your weight and stlye riding. Until you start to service a fork you have no idea. This number is for a brand spanking new fork, dry as a bone.
Open bath, open cartridge:
The tech's just go by a simple number for single clamp forks or non 888 models, open cartridge the number is 45mm MAX. (If I lost you already you shouldn't be working on your fork!!) That hieght on any fork is a lot (that's why I gave 65mm earlier) but I have still used higher.

Oil hieght in these forks and effects your spring curve. A lot of times you are using air preload. If you add air preload to any system you have a big variable. Different oil volumes change the spring curve(even if there is a coil spring involved too). Millimeters (and CC's) of oil matter. Volumes are great for production, Italian style, Taiwan style, American Style, Canadian style but not for service and tuning.

Cartridge forks (no holes except for a pump or a knob)
You have to be careful with cartridge forks. You can not set an oil hieght correctly with a cartridge (TST, ATA, bladder, non-bladder, etc) due to not being able to measure it with everything compressed (you can't screw in the cartridge and measure it). 30cc's is the number with 35mm stanchion and under. 35 and over stanchions with more than 160mm travel can take 50cc's no problem. That's production. You can run another 10-20cc's for better lubrication. It's weight wars people (don't hate the player, hate the game).

The website info comes from production spec. It can only be used for reference. A brand new fork, new cartridge, new springs, new seals, those will take the volume measurement(if added correctly) Other than that you have to check it...by hieght.

It's never easy huh? Rear shocks use height too.

I think updating the website would be a great thing too....and we are listening.
 

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Hey, M - Tech Department........

Will you give me your name and extension number?

I figure then we can know if you are real or not.

Also, my 66 rc3 just got warranted, and it tops out pretty badly ( unless i slow the rebound way down). Does it just need more oil in it?

Thanks
 
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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
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700 Posts
Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Correct Aia Pressures for ATA

JoeDesperado said:
how about correct air pressure settings for the ATA forks? the numbers published online are way off...
Firstly, start by adding / checking the air to the bottom air valve, the PAR chamber. What seems to work is 100-130psi. I am 185-190 and I like 120psi. Even if you are 300lbs, I wouldn't go much above 150psi.

Next add air to the top. I love 45-50 psi for moderate terrain. If it's super steep drop runs I like 55psi. My 888 ATA setting, 47 top/ 125bottom. My 55 ATA 47top/ 125psi bottom. Normal riding I use 45psi. It safe to start here.

If you are lighter use less. If your are heavier, use more.

Now if the fork is too plush, adjust the top air valve. This will stiffen up the top end of the stroke. The fork has a negative air spring that is controlled by the top pressure. It will always have a little subtleness and will never top-out.

Bicycle Bob says, "always complete the loop"!
 

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Which species did you find in that cart, Rennie?

Renegade said:
Okay Marz. tech support, answer me this question:
What is the maximum air speed of an unladen african swallow, and what the heck is it doing in my RC2 cartridge?
Was it just an unladen African Swallow or an unladen African Equatorial Swallow?
 

· Spanish rider
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311 Posts
Hey!! This is great!

I have a simple cuestion for you:

I own a '06 Mx Comp and as you know I have to open it to set the rebound. Last time I unscrewed the protection cap (using the 21 mm socket) I noticed that the o-ring located just between this cap and the fork was quite damaged.

The fork has no air leaks but I'm afraid that the next time I open it, the o-ring will break.

I imagine that this o-ring has a standard measure I just want to know that reference to buy some at a hardware store.

Thanks!! :D

Picture (the o-ring goes there but it doesn't appear):
 

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Question for you M-Tech - why does my 160mm 55 TST2 only have 140mm of usable travel, even when I let all the air out? The TST isn't on or partially on and it's brand new. Is it OK to ride like this, or is using it going to make it worse?

Thanks.
 
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Discussion Starter · #53 ·
crisillo said:
:thumbsup:
Fly or Die...and I am not going to die, so here I am.

A hoax I am not.

My name is Tom Rogers. I work in Research and development for Marzocchi USA. I am responsible for the concept of the ROCO rear shock line. I set all the damping ranges for all shocks and qualify all for damping and spring rates. I am the one that hammers the Italians about issues we see (from the market and production) and try to give them a solutions to the problems. My prime responsiblity is "Everything it seems". The title on my desk says Master Dirtologist.:thumbsup:

I have a phone (and an extension) but I do not work in tech. You can ask for me but you'd be better off getting through to our tech department. I am not at my desk very often.

I am a problem solver, designer, fabricator, test rider, Pro rider support suspension technician. I work with Product Managers for various brands. Basically I get to ride all the new stuff (2009 is amazing, and 2010 is on the table). I build the sweet ass custom forks for the Pros!!! Lopes, Cowan, Bass, Gracia, etc...

Naz in Canada is my hommie!

Currently I am trying to solve YOUR problems.

A hoax I am not. I am no ******** straight up in your face!!! If you know me then you know this is true. I am the nice guy :D .
 

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Ossum!

This thread is going to get ridiculously splintered. I suggest individual threads for different problems.

Please let me start this ball rolling with the RC2 ETA thread which I will freshen momentarily.

Thanks!!
 

· "El Whatever"
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Marzocchi Tech Department said:
Fly or Die...and I am not going to die, so here I am.

A hoax I am not.

My name is Tom Rogers. I work in Research and development for Marzocchi USA. I am responsible for the concept of the ROCO rear shock line. I set all the damping ranges for all shocks and qualify all for damping and spring rates. I am the one
That's great, Tom. As I need a larger canister for my Roco Air R 2007 because the spring rate ramps up so much that it just doesn't use the travel fully on trailriding situations.

For those of us that do not jump or huck, the Roco Air R ramps up a bit too much.

Congrats on the damping, it's the very best out there without getting assistance from a tuner. You nailed it.
 

· Super Moderator
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Marzocchi Tech Department said:
Fly or Die...and I am not going to die, so here I am.

A hoax I am not.

My name is Tom Rogers. I work in Research and development for Marzocchi USA. I am responsible for the concept of the ROCO rear shock line. I set all the damping ranges for all shocks and qualify all for damping and spring rates. I am the one that hammers the Italians about issues we see (from the market and production) and try to give them a solutions to the problems. My prime responsiblity is "Everything it seems". The title on my desk says Master Dirtologist.:thumbsup:
Awesome to have you onboard, Tom! :thumbsup:

one detail, please add the "affiliation" info to your signature to comply with the guidelines
 

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Tom,

Is Brian Peterson still with Zoke? He left a bad taste in the mouths of many people here that I'm sure, like me, they won't forget. His apathy towards the customer and inability to do his job was a contributing factor to why you're going to encounter many skeptical of any presence here, so be forewarned. You're going uphill and that's the only way out- to fix things, rather than abandon the customers.

Check this thread for a nice set of responses from Brian:

http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=216879&page=2

Another problem was how he pretended to know a lot of the technical workings, but obviously did not.
 
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Discussion Starter · #60 ·
Mr.P said:
Can you let us know the oil type and measurements inside the TST2 & TST Micro damper cartridge. And perhaps proper oil filling steps.

It seems the cartridges are locking up due to sucking in bath oil. We can rebuild ourselves if we just have the specs.

P
You can use Golden Spectro 7.5wt or my personal favorite Pro Curcuit PS-02. The red oil is special oil but not that special, in fact I hate to work with it.

It don't think you are sucking in oil from the oil bath. I think it is over filled from the factory. You can crack open the bottom end cap on the cartridge, (holding it upside down) then compress the pumping element (the inner rod) completely. Now extend the shaft and tighten the endcap. I perfer to leave it compressed when tightening but you can extend it too.

It is the same operation if you do it from the top cap thread. Fill the cartridge, cycle the pumping element, compress it with the top compression assembly in as far as possible without sealing, extend it, tighten it down (torque = Nice and snug, not kung foo)

Rocket Science!!:D
 
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