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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not sure if this is the correct forum to post this but thought I'd try, I wanted to throw out a question to see if anyone is familiar and/or would have suggestion for me.

I bought a K2 factory 4.0 (All Mt) in May 2009 and last week I noticed that the front shock, a Marzocchi Bomber XC 600 TST 2 locked out. I've riden this bike almost 2 seasons and am a female, 130lbs and would say I'm on the upper end of an intermediate rider.

My question, is this normal for this type of shock to malfunction w/in this time frame? The only thing I have to compare it against it my last front shock that I had for 8 years which never gave me any grief.

Also, does anyone know about having 8 inch roters and the tire continuously rubbing everytime I have to take my tire off and put back on? It's done this from day one and the shop guy says that I need to get it lined up perfectly. After going into the shop MANY time and having them show me the correct way, I'm still unable to get it from rubbing so then I ride with it like that. To me, it doesn't seem "normal" and plus the shop guys are unable to get it perfect most times. Do I have any options with this issue?

Any input would be great. Thanks,

Kelly
 

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I considered a variant of this fork before. Here's a review from this exact fork:

http://www.mtbr.com/cat/suspension/2008-forks/marzocchi/xc-600-tst2/PRD_416224_1565crx.aspx

Just reading the forum regarding quality issues on the Zokes, it sounds like there are more unhappy people (but then again, more people are riding so that could skew the numbers).

By rubbing, do you mean the disc to the pad? Or are your tires rubbing the fork too? If it's the disc/pad rub, are you installing your front tire with the bike inverted? Sometimes, that helps get the wheel in correctly. Also, is your hub in good shape? How about your skewers? Surface of the dropouts?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thanks

Thanks for your reply, someone else also responded and said they had the same issue, so i called the company and told me to send it in.

The tire is rubbing on the roters, the same reply above told me to look on the brake forum for more info. The shop told me that 6" roters are standard but b.c of the 5.5 travel on my bike they had to put 8" roters on w/an adaptor so that it doesn't rub, but it does. It just shouldn't be so difficult to put my tire on EVERYtime, so I'll go to those forums and check into it.

I appreciate your response!
 

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The TST is not the most reliable system, but like any suspension product, it does require maintenance. Lock out after 2 rides is a quality issue (manufactures responsibility), after 2 years it is a maintenance issue (owners responsibility).

If you ride regularly, it should be in the shop at least once a year.

For the brake rub, there is not a lot of tolerance between the pad and the rotor, some realignment may be required. Could be the wheel is off a bit, or it was when the callipers were lined up originally.
 

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Beer Swilling Clyde
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The guys at the shop you took your bike to may have already told you this. A good easy trick to stop brake rub is to take a business card and place it between your rotor and the brake pad. Pull hard on the lever for a bit, take out the card, and hopefully you will be rub free.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Mullen119,

So I have a few photos, thou I don't think very clear but pretty basic (eventhough I'm not sure of exact/correct terminology of parts) but it's the rotor or hub, the silver ring on tire that goes inbetween the break discs mounted on the fork that is rubbing. Yes, I use a plastic spacer when my tire is out and no I do not grab the brake levers when tire is removed and yes I insert tire w/bike upside down and yes I try to tighten the lever equal amount of rotations every time and yes it consistantly rubs everytime no matter who does it.

Although when one of the guys in the shop tried to fix this I did get the bike back with tire running free. At this time I put a rack on the back of my car so that I did not have to remove the tire, so it was good for 1/2 dozen rides or so until I had to remove the tire again. It sounds from the other replies I've gotten that it is what it is, which is ridiciouls but my bad for not researching all parts that came with bike before purchasing. It just perplexes me that a bike would be built only to work halfmass, I was under the impression that I was purchasing a fully functionable full suspension bike.

Since it's a K2 bike, I assume that they built the bike? they decided on what specs and parts went on the bike? Did I hear that they went out of business or is that Iron horse or both? This rubbing issue is not part of the fork/shock, or is it? I'm really confused about who or what I need to address with this issue.

I was attempting to post the photos but I'd rather just emaiI them to you if you really want to see them, but I appreciate your response.

cheers,
Kelly
 

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Beer Swilling Clyde
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Sounds like typical brake rub, just read my post above, should take care of it. Nothing wrong with your setup, the pads are just a little too close to the rotor when you reinstall your wheel. By adding that extra space with the business card you'll allow the rotor to turn rub free.
 

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kabrn34 said:
Mullen119,

So I have a few photos, thou I don't think very clear but pretty basic (eventhough I'm not sure of exact/correct terminology of parts) but it's the rotor or hub, the silver ring on tire that goes inbetween the break discs mounted on the fork that is rubbing. Yes, I use a plastic spacer when my tire is out and no I do not grab the brake levers when tire is removed and yes I insert tire w/bike upside down and yes I try to tighten the lever equal amount of rotations every time and yes it consistantly rubs everytime no matter who does it.

Although when one of the guys in the shop tried to fix this I did get the bike back with tire running free. At this time I put a rack on the back of my car so that I did not have to remove the tire, so it was good for 1/2 dozen rides or so until I had to remove the tire again. It sounds from the other replies I've gotten that it is what it is, which is ridiciouls but my bad for not researching all parts that came with bike before purchasing. It just perplexes me that a bike would be built only to work halfmass, I was under the impression that I was purchasing a fully functionable full suspension bike.

Since it's a K2 bike, I assume that they built the bike? they decided on what specs and parts went on the bike? Did I hear that they went out of business or is that Iron horse or both? This rubbing issue is not part of the fork/shock, or is it? I'm really confused about who or what I need to address with this issue.

I was attempting to post the photos but I'd rather just emaiI them to you if you really want to see them, but I appreciate your response.

cheers,
Kelly
To get a good alignment, With the wheel on, loosen the alignment bolts(pink arrows pointing to them in the picture below). You only have to loosen the bolts a little bit, just enough that the brake caliper can move around freely. Once loose, squeeze the brakes fairly hard, and re-tighten the alignment bolts (while still squeezing the brake.) Doing this will ensure that the brake disc is centered evenly between the brake pads. You can add playing cards like said above if needed, But in most cases its not necessary.



It is Iron Horse that went out of business, not K2. Once your brake is properly aligned, You should be in a good shape.:thumbsup:
 
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