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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Marzocchi Service Manual Thread

Bikezilla's '09 66RC3 Revealed (with lots of info, photos and tool advice)

Marzocchi Roco Air R Disassembly and Assembly Thread w/ service instructions

Warp's Zoke Roco Air R ( & 5th Element Air) Shock Guts Pixel Dump and Exposé

Warp's Marzocchi All Mountain 1 Service, Tuning and Disassembly Photos (useful for other TST models & retrofit HSCV info)

Please feel free to post up any good Zoke service info :thumbsup:

Please use this thread to post any advice,queries and answers you need.

Non-technical and/or off-topic responses may be deleted in this thread (please start a new thread if you think it is relevant).

Cheers :)
 

· B A N N E D
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Service Manuals and Technical Manuals.

This link has Service Manuals and Technical Manuals from 1994 to 2006 for Marzocchi.
Link: http://my-sport.spb.ru/manual_1/index-16.htm/
Some of the Technical Manuals on this link can be downloaded from the Marzocchi website, but this link also has detailed Service Manuals for specific model forks which cannot be found on the Marzocchi website.
 

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Need help with marzocchi z1 light ETA problem

i recently picked up a used z1 light eta 2006. it works perfectly except for the eta, which only drops the fork by about 20mm at the most.
the eta seemed to work fine before i installed it on the bike. i could compress it and it would stay locked down.. any ideas what the problem might be
thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
luke1970 said:
i recently picked up a used z1 light eta 2006. it works perfectly except for the eta, which only drops the fork by about 20mm at the most.
the eta seemed to work fine before i installed it on the bike. i could compress it and it would stay locked down.. any ideas what the problem might be
thanks
Could be oil level on ETA side too low. Try adding some oil.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Need to get to your PAR ?

Originally posted by tscheezy (in this thread):

tscheezy said:
No tools needed to open the PAR chamber. The end piece with the spanner holes just gets pushed up into the cart body a bit to expose the spring clip, which you can pry loose, and then the whole shebang slides out the bottom. The rod inside the PAR cart is in two pieces and separates with no further tools or fuss.











 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Marzocchi 55 TST2 conversion to shim damping: step by step

Originally posted by Mr.P (in this thread):

Mr.P said:
This is a modification to a Marzocchi 55 TST2 fork damper cartridge. This modification converts the lock-out to a low speed compression adjustment and adds a high-speed compression shim stack.

(For a bleed only proceedure, see here: https://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=410888 )

It all started with an MTBR post asking for help on how to set up a Mazocchi 55 TST2 fork...And turned into a complete damper modification. :eek:

The problem I was having was high speed spiking. With the help of Flyag1 (he cracked open his damper cartridge and set me the pics) we were able to figure out that the damping was a port orifice design. The port orifice being the source of the high speed spiking. But from Flyag1's pics I also noticed something else; a blanked off potential compression piston.

This compression piston was simply blanked off with just some thick washers. I speculated that we could replace the washers with a shim stack with the lock-out orifice acting as an adjustable bypass port. Sounds great, but modifying my new 3 year warranteed fork on some pics and guesswork was pretty racy for me. Then I got the dreaded hydro-locking damper cartridge - a week before Sea Otter (I was entered to race). And Marzocchi Tech Department replied to my post with confirmation of our guesses and additional great info, to give me the confidence I needed.

I knew I had to crack open the cartridge to be able to run the fork for Sea Otter. I figured, if I'm in there I may as well give the damper mod a shot. I had my spacer ready, shims ready, beers ready...


Here is how it went down:

1) Pry up the lock out with a flat blade screw driver - it is held in by the friction of an O-ring.



2) Remove the plastic bits and keep them in order



3) Use a 22mm ground down socket and unscrew the top of the damping cartridge from the fork crown.

This next part is NOT part of the Marzocchi recommended damper bleed proceedure - but I was able to do the whole modification and bleed without removing the damping cartridge.

4) Push the fork to bottom (air and spring removed from spring side) while making sure that the damping cart is still extended out of the fork.

5) Unscrew cart top. I used an old tube to friction hold the outside of the cart to keep it from spinning. It was tough and required a beer for courage. lol. :p

6) After loosening carefully pull compression damper straight out.




7) Remove bottom bolt from damper shaft. More beer for courage. Marzocchi Tech Department advised to heat the bolt as there is loc-tite on the threads - and I don't think I could have gotten the bolt off without doing so. Again, I used my old tube to hold the damper.



8) Bye bye thick unflexing washers. Hello flexy goodness shims and spacer! Welcome speed sensitive damping! :eekster:
Right now it is a pyramid stack 17mm, 16mm, 16mm, 15mm, 13mm. All (I think) .010 thick except for the 13mm which is .005 thick. 18mm scraped the side of the cartridge. (all 8mm ID)

The spacer is an aluminum chainring bolt spacer. :)




9) Measure oil level in the damper at full extension. Flyag1 came up with measurement of 110mm from the top - it is dead-on! :thumbsup: This will give an oil level just above the piston/shim for proper operation.

10-x) Reverse rest of proceedure to put back together.

Success = beer.


RIDING RESULTS:

Damping was controlled and felt as normal (pre-mod) with trail riding at wide-open. Then I stuffed the front wheel straight into the boneyards at speed; the smaller stuff was simply erased, 3" or larger squared rock stills had some feedback, but it was controlled and not spiked feedback (and could be related to spring ramp-up). It did make my rear shock seem less plush - not a technical issue just a feel issue. End of DH rock run, my hands were not killing me as they were prior to the mod. I did still have some arm pump, but that is expected on that particular trail.

Drops and jumps seemed to go just a bit deeper into travel, (spring rate or less HSC?) but the ramp up of the air spring still gave that lovely landing-on-a-couch feel, and covered any mistakes.

Lock-out is now a compression adjustment. Full lock out is firm compression (port orifice is off and piston/shim is active) that makes the fork only move about an inch under stand and pedal situations (2 inches max when stand and mash is tired and sloppy). The cool part this this retains 80% of the lock out benefits, but the travel remains well controlled and active - still eating up small and large features. I will never have to worry if I am locked or not on a downhill, as it is still perfectly rideable on "full lock".

So am I happy? Hell yes! It is now the fork I thought I bought and wanted. I love that I can also easily modify to shim stack to shape the compression to my riding.

I am using a quarter turn compression setting to give an nice controlled and efficient feel on XCish and flowy trails - it also helps with dive. (just a quarter turn gives me full shim stack only compression)

MAINTENANCE RESULTS:

After a couple of 20+ mile rides, 40-50 runs on the Sea Otter dual slalom course that included uncountable jumps and drops all is working fine (it should). And I am glad to say the damper has not hydro-locked. I should also note it only takes about 10-15 minutes to get to shim stack now.

Start modding!!

Thanks again to Flyag1 and Marzocchi Tech Department. They helped me to make a good fork great.

P
 

· Epicriderat
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Oil change All Mtn. SL 1?

I'm trying to find service manuals for the 2007 All Mtn. SL1 and haven't found any. What I need to know is, when changing the oil in the fork legs, not getting into the cartridges, is it as easy as taking off the top caps on both legs and draining, then replacing with the new oil?

Thanks.
 

· "El Whatever"
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epicriderat said:
I'm trying to find service manuals for the 2007 All Mtn. SL1 and haven't found any. What I need to know is, when changing the oil in the fork legs, not getting into the cartridges, is it as easy as taking off the top caps on both legs and draining, then replacing with the new oil?

Thanks.
Yes...

Though, I'd recommend to take the time to get the lowers off and clean everything, then reassemble.

That or flush repeatedly with clean oil a couple times to get the most of slush out.
 

· Epicriderat
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Warp said:
Yes...

Though, I'd recommend to take the time to get the lowers off and clean everything, then reassemble.

That or flush repeatedly with clean oil a couple times to get the most of slush out.
Thanks for the info. referring to the oil level chart on the Marzocchi site, are these levels for the oil bath or for the cartrides?

according to the oil level chart my fork has 55cc right/20ccleft fork legs.
 

· "El Whatever"
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epicriderat said:
Thanks for the info. referring to the oil level chart on the Marzocchi site, are these levels for the oil bath or for the cartrides?

according to the oil level chart my fork has 55cc right/20ccleft fork legs.
That's for the semi-bath...

The Doppio Air has just a few cc's of oil if any and the TST takes whatever it takes.
 

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I have a z5 flylight on my 2000 Norco charger that is currently leaking oil.

I'm debating rebuilding it and have grabbed the service manual for it. I'm wondering where I can get the tools required.. stanchion puller being one. I know I can grab the 30mm seals from enduro or jensonusa but as far as tools go I'm at a loss.

Also, is it even worth it? Or should I look into something newer from marz? Thinking maybe a 22R
 
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