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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
my marzocchi air is leaking....
hi, i have an 2003 z1 fr sl with air chambers on both ends . when i try to take of some air from the negative chamber it spurts out about teaspoonful of fork oil.
just wanna ask those people wit marzocchi air forks if they had these problem and what you do about it.
 

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both ends?

the holes sit right next to each other.

sounds like you just need new seals. take the air out and remove that top cap, see what the valves look like on the inside. maybe you can just get a new top cap
 

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noMAD man
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When you say "teaspoonful"...are you using creative license to indicate some oil "sprays" out in a fine mist...or it's actually shooting out in notable quantity? Some fine mist coming out of the negative chamber valve is not uncommon. Also I find it's better when servicing the air in a Doppio fork to let the pressure out of the positive chambers first before releasing the negative....then restart with the positive and add negative as needed. It relieves the pressure a bit from the negative chamber. Plus, you know what negative pressure you have for sure, so that you can duplicate it again the next time you need to putz with pos and neg pressures. Otherwise as DHS indicated, it's seals.
 

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oil coming out from the neg is common on 03 (non par forks) and is not good. This is a sign that the neg piston seals are leaking, not really a big deal youll need the neg seals (2 o-rings) probably about 2 bucks retail. Then you need to rebuild the doppio system (youll need some shaft clamp adapters to hold the cartridge then unscrew the cartridge top cap and youll see the piston on the shaft just replace the 2 o-rings lube them and rebuild thats it.

expect to replace those seal about every year with hard riding.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
i tried opening the fork and i'm stuck with trying to take off the top cap , i'm suppose to use some kind of special vise to hold the damping catridge to take off the top cap. do u guys have any tips on taking it off .. do you think i can just use a cloth and a regular vise?? btw i took off the damper already from the casting/exterior part.
 

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noMAD man
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Yeah, they recommend a specific "soft jaws" clamp/vise that fits that diameter shaft, but I've made numerous devices at home out of wood that safely clamp an aluminum part to allow tightening or loosening. That cap is not usually extremely tight, and conversely you don't have to tighten it like the lug nuts on your car. If you groove a couple of pieces of wood to clamp the damper shaft into a regular workbench vise, this usually works. You must be judicious about how much pressure you use to clamp that damper, so if you're not comfortable with that, get the LBS to do it after you get the damper out.
 

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that is not the top cap I am reffereing to, that is the shaft top cap. I meant the cartridge top cap and yes you will need some vise inserts (sears has a really cool set for only 15 bucks, they are a red poly insert with various diamerters in it). It is lock tighted on pretty tight so a heat gun help to break that seal (just be carfull not to ruin the seal in the cap or youll need a new cap about 25 bucks. Once you get it apart youll see the piston and the 2 o-rings that need replacement on the shaft (only the o-rings not the piston need replacement).
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
i thought the seals are inside the piston....if i'm leaking oil on the negative chamber do i just change the o rings on the piston????coz i called my bikeshop and they said there's 2 kinds of seal kit for my fork(air seals/oil seals)
 

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noMAD man
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bill, you probably need to talk to someone in person at the shop and look at a pic, so you can show them which o-rings you're referring to on an exploded parts pic.
 

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noMAD man
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Jesse, that may be what you were talking about, but the pic link he posted was definitely of the "main" top cap and cart attachment...though both require the use of some type of soft jaws anyway.
 

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I have the 2004 Z1 FRSL, neg chamber did the leaking oil spit.
The best was to turn the bike up on the rear wheel, so the top of the fork was aiming about 15 degrees down. Screw in the air adaptor, and see if I could hit the used oil tub at a distance.
Sent it in for a rebuild of the neg chamber since I understand the o-rings are not really user servicable in it.
It al so had a slow leak in the ECC leg, which I asked for repair on. As well, I had it revalved.
Cost was about $115. Sent it through the shop I bought it from.
Revalve was nice, but a bit too plush(I went with heavier weight oil to fix it).
The neg chamber has not leaked again aside from a bit of mist every now and then for going on 2 years since the rebuild.
The ECC leg, on the other hand, leaks worse than before. And that started soon after the rebuild.

Just bought some seals from Enduro, so I will be installing those and doing an oil change. Should be as smooth and leak-free after.
 
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