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My 06 Marzocchi AM1 (130-150mm w/ ETA TST) is due for an oil/seal change according to the manual.

Unfortunately, there aren't any instructions in the manual - only a note that the job should be performed by an authorized Marz service center.

So my question is - does anybody have any instructions on how I can do this myself? I put my own bikes together - so I figure I should be able to change the oil and seals myself as well.

Thanks!
 

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"El Whatever"
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Really simple for an oil change without touching the TST...

You only need a 21mm socket, a 12mm socket ground down to 14.5mm OD for about 6mm lenght (or get the Zoke socket), some allen wrenches, an open end wrench (can't remember if it's 10 or 12mm) and 7.5wt oil or Golden Spectro 125/150

1.- Deplete all air off.
2.- Remove all knobs.
3.- With the ground 12mm socket, remove the footnuts
4.- Open topcaps with the 21mm socket and lots of care (a crescent works fine too, but you can damage the topcaps if it slips off).
5.- Drain oil off.
6.- Hold the flats below the ETA topcap with an open end wrench (I forgot if they're 10 or 12mm) and undo the topcap off the ETA cart shaft with the 21mm socket, counterclockwise. Pull out the spring and any spacer below the topcap.
7.- Pull out cartridges, cycle the ETA one to remove all oil inside.
8.- Pull lowers off carefully.
9.- Clean everything with a lint free, clean rag.
10.- Smear some grease like M-Prep or Rock n' Roll's Super Slick on seals and wipers
11.- Carefully and evenly, put stanchions into lowers
12.- Slip cartridges in.
13.- Tighten foot nuts. These just be just snug, not tight to death.
14.- Put 40ml of oil on TST side.... it's not that easy as there's little room between the bladder and the crown holes.
15.- Put approx 140ml of oil on the ETA side. Cycle the rod while you add oil to ensure you're filling up the cartridge. With the stanchions all the way into the lowers and the shaft all the way into the cartridge, there should be like 50mm between the top of the crown and the surface of the oil. Measure with a straw or something. I use the tail of a caliper.
16.- Put back the spring, spacers and topcap on ETA.
17.- Do back topcaps on crown. The TST's bladder swells while you're trying to do this... be patient and don't get medieval with it. It'll eventually go in. Also, topcaps must be tight, but don't use a lot of elbow grease.
18.- RIDE THE THING!!!

As for servicing the TST, I don't have experience with it. There are some threads on this board about it. It seems to be a quite simple procedure that can get to be a royal PITA and it's kinda tricky.

Basically... if your TST locks out as normal and the travel is nice, DON'T touch the TST. Don't fix what's not broken.

Good luck!
 

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Warp said:
Really simple for an oil change without touching the TST...

You only need a 21mm socket, a 12mm socket ground down to 14.5mm OD for about 6mm lenght (or get the Zoke socket), some allen wrenches, an open end wrench (can't remember if it's 10 or 12mm) and 7.5wt oil or Golden Spectro 125/150

1.- Deplete all air off.
2.- Remove all knobs.
3.- With the ground 12mm socket, remove the footnuts
4.- Open topcaps with the 21mm socket and lots of care (a crescent works fine too, but you can damage the topcaps if it slips off).
5.- Drain oil off.
6.- Hold the flats below the ETA topcap with an open end wrench (I forgot if they're 10 or 12mm) and undo the topcap off the ETA cart shaft with the 21mm socket, counterclockwise. Pull out the spring and any spacer below the topcap.
7.- Pull out cartridges, cycle the ETA one to remove all oil inside.
8.- Pull lowers off carefully.
9.- Clean everything with a lint free, clean rag.
10.- Smear some grease like M-Prep or Rock n' Roll's Super Slick on seals and wipers
11.- Carefully and evenly, put stanchions into lowers
12.- Slip cartridges in.
13.- Tighten foot nuts. These just be just snug, not tight to death.
14.- Put 40ml of oil on TST side.... it's not that easy as there's little room between the bladder and the crown holes.
15.- Put approx 140ml of oil on the ETA side. Cycle the rod while you add oil to ensure you're filling up the cartridge. With the stanchions all the way into the lowers and the shaft all the way into the cartridge, there should be like 50mm between the top of the crown and the surface of the oil. Measure with a straw or something. I use the tail of a caliper.
16.- Put back the spring, spacers and topcap on ETA.
17.- Do back topcaps on crown. The TST's bladder swells while you're trying to do this... be patient and don't get medieval with it. It'll eventually go in. Also, topcaps must be tight, but don't use a lot of elbow grease.
18.- RIDE THE THING!!!

As for servicing the TST, I don't have experience with it. There are some threads on this board about it. It seems to be a quite simple procedure that can get to be a royal PITA and it's kinda tricky.

Basically... if your TST locks out as normal and the travel is nice, DON'T touch the TST. Don't fix what's not broken.

Good luck!
OK, I am VERY VERY confused now.

I go to the Marz website, and it tells me that the RIGHT leg shoud have 185cc and the left leg should have 55cc in my 2006 all mountain 1.

You (and a few others) are telling me to put 140ml in the ETA side (which on my fork is the LEFT leg) and 40 ml in the TST side (RIGHT leg)

So which is it? Or does Marz classify the right leg from standing in front of the bike instead of on the bike?

All I want to do is change my oil!! :madman: :madman: :madman:
 

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Scofflaw Mountain Biker
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2,729 Posts
Warp said:
Really simple for an oil change without touching the TST...

You only need a 21mm socket, a 12mm socket ground down to 14.5mm OD for about 6mm lenght (or get the Zoke socket), some allen wrenches, an open end wrench (can't remember if it's 10 or 12mm) and 7.5wt oil or Golden Spectro 125/150

1.- Deplete all air off.
2.- Remove all knobs.
3.- With the ground 12mm socket, remove the footnuts
4.- Open topcaps with the 21mm socket and lots of care (a crescent works fine too, but you can damage the topcaps if it slips off).
5.- Drain oil off.
6.- Hold the flats below the ETA topcap with an open end wrench (I forgot if they're 10 or 12mm) and undo the topcap off the ETA cart shaft with the 21mm socket, counterclockwise. Pull out the spring and any spacer below the topcap.
7.- Pull out cartridges, cycle the ETA one to remove all oil inside.
8.- Pull lowers off carefully.
9.- Clean everything with a lint free, clean rag.
10.- Smear some grease like M-Prep or Rock n' Roll's Super Slick on seals and wipers
11.- Carefully and evenly, put stanchions into lowers
12.- Slip cartridges in.
13.- Tighten foot nuts. These just be just snug, not tight to death.
14.- Put 40ml of oil on TST side.... it's not that easy as there's little room between the bladder and the crown holes.
15.- Put approx 140ml of oil on the ETA side. Cycle the rod while you add oil to ensure you're filling up the cartridge. With the stanchions all the way into the lowers and the shaft all the way into the cartridge, there should be like 50mm between the top of the crown and the surface of the oil. Measure with a straw or something. I use the tail of a caliper.
16.- Put back the spring, spacers and topcap on ETA.
17.- Do back topcaps on crown. The TST's bladder swells while you're trying to do this... be patient and don't get medieval with it. It'll eventually go in. Also, topcaps must be tight, but don't use a lot of elbow grease.
18.- RIDE THE THING!!!

As for servicing the TST, I don't have experience with it. There are some threads on this board about it. It seems to be a quite simple procedure that can get to be a royal PITA and it's kinda tricky.

Basically... if your TST locks out as normal and the travel is nice, DON'T touch the TST. Don't fix what's not broken.

Good luck!
WOW,,, great write up. :thumbsup:
 

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OK, more help required here.....

I went with the 140ml / 40ml as noted above - and now my beautiful TST cartridge (which was working BEFORE I started f$%^ing around) no longer TST's

Am I correct in assuming that it is some sort of a hydraulic lock, and I just need to add more oil? I drained out maybe 35ml from it on disassembly, but that does not account for spillage, so it is possible that it had more then 40ml in it originally?

Will wait to hear from the shock pros.

Thanks.
 

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"El Whatever"
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18,889 Posts
006_007 said:
OK, more help required here.....

I went with the 140ml / 40ml as noted above - and now my beautiful TST cartridge (which was working BEFORE I started f$%^ing around) no longer TST's

Am I correct in assuming that it is some sort of a hydraulic lock, and I just need to add more oil? I drained out maybe 35ml from it on disassembly, but that does not account for spillage, so it is possible that it had more then 40ml in it originally?

Will wait to hear from the shock pros.

Thanks.
Your TST problem is not related to oil level in that leg. The oil there is only for lubrication purpouses and it's just an amount to splash the leg with oil.

This is a documented problem with it (the TST). Some people has had it (including me, I think)... rather hard to "splain"... it could be air entering the TST as you open the fork... but the TST is always surrounded by pressurized air from the preload!!

The solution is bleeding the TST cart... but I would not dare to suggest how. Check other threads for that. It seems not to be too difficult, but it is VERY tricky.

BTW... Zoke published levels have to be taken with a grain of salt. Most of times they're off. The 140/40 is a number given by users like Jncarpenter, Bikezilla and others, from experience.

PS... how's the chick on your avatar... she looks hot!
 

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Registered
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9,887 Posts
Warp said:
Your TST problem is not related to oil level in that leg. The oil there is only for lubrication purpouses and it's just an amount to splash the leg with oil.

This is a documented problem with it (the TST). Some people has had it (including me, I think)... rather hard to "splain"... it could be air entering the TST as you open the fork... but the TST is always surrounded by pressurized air from the preload!!

The solution is bleeding the TST cart... but I would not dare to suggest how. Check other threads for that. It seems not to be too difficult, but it is VERY tricky.

BTW... Zoke published levels have to be taken with a grain of salt. Most of times they're off. The 140/40 is a number given by users like Jncarpenter, Bikezilla and others, from experience.

PS... how's the chick on your avatar... she looks hot!
ARGHHH, so now I have really killed my fork. I couldnt have just left the damn thing alone. NOOOOo I have to go and mess around after 6 months.

The chick on the avatar is O-ren Ishii from Kill Bill. You are correct in that there is NOTHING wrong with Lucy Liu. She was the only reason I watched Ally McBeal :eekster:
 
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