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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New question here. Marzocchi 66rc2x oil change
Hey, time for the first oil change on my 66 rc2x....

I removed the fork from bike, removed knobs and loosened the top caps. Now I can compress the stanchions and see the springs and cartridges. How do I remove the top caps and springs- do I loosen the set screws in the sides of the top caps? Or is it like a Z1- compress springs, grab the red nuts on the damper cartridges and then un-thread top caps? Or maybe both techniques combined? I have no idea.

If anybody can get me started I'd appreciate it- otherwise I guess I'll wait till monday and call Marz.

PS, if you have oil level suggestions post 'em- otherwise I figured I'd match the current height since it felt great.

TIA!
 

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When i took mine apart i went no farther at the top. It might make a little mess but just dump the oil out and cycle the cartridges. I also took off the the bottom nuts and lowers which suprised me with how more oil came out. I don't see the benefit of removing the springs from the top caps unless it makes you happy. Also, marzocchi typically overfills the oil according to other posts, just something to keep in mind. Good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
jmk75 said:
When i took mine apart i went no farther at the top. It might make a little mess but just dump the oil out and cycle the cartridges. I also took off the the bottom nuts and lowers which suprised me with how more oil came out. I don't see the benefit of removing the springs from the top caps unless it makes you happy. Also, marzocchi typically overfills the oil according to other posts, just something to keep in mind. Good luck!
Cool, thanks for the tips. Makes sense to drain most of the oil out of the top and then remove the foot-nuts to remove the lowers. Long as I get as much old oil out as possible I'm happy.

Anything I should know about removing the foot-nuts? Looks like there are hex flats underneath the compression adjuster knob on the bottom, just loosen that and the foot nut on the other side?

Thanks
 

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I think that if i had cycled the shock more and waited long enough, the oil would have come out of the top. However, i needed the lowers off, i don't necesariliy recommend taking them off, not because it is hard (Just take off the two nuts) but because you can probably get it all through the top and less of a chance of breaking something. If you do take the nuts off, marzocchi calls for a special wrench for one of the nuts, but i just used a six point soccket that worked fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
follow-up post:

I just got off the phone with Marzocchi. They suggested removing the top caps by grabbing the red aluminum nuts on the damper shafts (underneath the springs) with a 8- or 10mm open-end wrench. The top caps will then un-threadd off the damper cartridges, allowing you to remove the springs and drain/fill oil. They said removing the lowers was not neccesary for an oil cyhange, however they suggest thouroughly cycling the cartridges to get all the old oil out. So basically, it's just like any other 'zoke.

I had read 220ml of oil in each leg here previously; they said this was for riders over 200lbs. I'm 175 and they said 210-215 would be better for me.
 

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Dude

You read my mind. I'm spending 4 days at Whistler this weekend and am contemplating the oil change. You already have yours apart? Could you take a few pics? I've yet to pull apart my fork. Are any of the top nuts reverse threaded? Ebx's
s roomy snapped his z150 cartridges by not twisting it the right way. Just curious.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yo Chad!

you're heading up this weekend? So am I! Well, at least I am %90 in- my wife and daughter both have that crud going around. If they aren't better by Friday I may just go solo. We should hook up- I'll PM you my contact info.

The oil change is done, it was very easy! Took maybe 15 minutes. The new cassette lock-ring top caps make it so much easier. Here's the dealio:

  1. Remove fork from bike and front brake from fork
  2. Remove top cap adjusters to expose cassette lock-ring orifice thing
  3. Unthread top caps using cassette lock ring tool (just fully loosen them, do not try to remove yet)
  4. Compress fork so that coil springs are exposed
  5. Reach through coil springs with a open-end wrench (I think it's 8mm?) to hold red lock nuts in place
  6. Unscrew top caps while holding the red nuts to keep the damper cartrigdes from spinning
  7. Remove top caps, coil springs and white plastic spacers below. The compression side has an additional spacer- just make sure to keep everything sorted.
  8. Pour old oil out into a big funnel, I drain this into a gatorade bottle.
  9. Cycle fork and damper rods to drain the last bits. Don't freak out if your adjuster rods fall out- just thread them back in 2-3 turns.
  10. Put the springs, spacers and top caps back on the damper rods. I found this was easier with the fork laying on it's side, so gravity doesn't cause the damper rods to drop into the fork. You may have to compress the springs just a bit by hand so that you can get the top caps threaded on to the damper rods. Make sure that the red nuts are full threaded down onto the damper rods (i.e. no visible threads after top caps are installed). Nothing here needs to be super tight, just snug.
  11. Pour new 7.5w oil into fork. I used a small measuring cup for this. Marzocchi reccomends 210-220ml's per each side. 1ml=1cc. They said 220 is for guys over 200lbs.
  12. Extend the fork so you can thread the top-caps into the fork crown. Then put the adjusters and stuff back on.
  13. After all this, I rode the fork around my neighborhood with the compression and rebound adjustments full open to fill the cartridges.

Largextracheese said:
You read my mind. I'm spending 4 days at Whistler this weekend and am contemplating the oil change. You already have yours apart? Could you take a few pics? I've yet to pull apart my fork. Are any of the top nuts reverse threaded? Ebx's
s roomy snapped his z150 cartridges by not twisting it the right way. Just curious.
 

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Awesome...thanks!

So how does it feel? So good you wanna cry? That's what I want. That is great we'll finally get some ride time together. Just look for my red bighit, with the same fork. Can't miss me.
I'll be on fire all weekend!
 

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FM said:
Make sure that the red nuts are full threaded down onto the damper rods (i.e. no visible threads after top caps are installed). Nothing here needs to be super tight, just snug.

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i just attempted my first oil change and i cant get the top cap down on the red nut without threads showing, when it starts getting kinda tight it just starts spinning the whole damper rod which works the red nut up instead of the top cap down. i tried holding onto the damper rod itself so that it would not spin which sort of worked but started grinding the crap out of the rod, it made me shudder to do this to my fork so i stopped.. what am i doing wrong? thanks
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
toman42 said:
i just attempted my first oil change and i cant get the top cap down on the red nut without threads showing, when it starts getting kinda tight it just starts spinning the whole damper rod which works the red nut up instead of the top cap down. i tried holding onto the damper rod itself so that it would not spin which sort of worked but started grinding the crap out of the rod, it made me shudder to do this to my fork so i stopped.. what am i doing wrong? thanks
(If I understand your description properly....)

I woudn't worry about getting the top cap that tight onto the damper. A few threads showing is no big deal. If you can get the red nut down to the bottom of the threads (finger tight + 1/4 turn), then screw the top cap on to the damper as far as possible- I would call it good at that and thread the top cap into the crown. Thats what holds it all together (top cap>crown). Hope that makes sense.
 

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toman42- you should use soft jaw aluminum clamps, zocchi has em, or a axle vise block should work as well, it will allow you to grip the cartridge without damaging it so you can tighten the lock nut and top cap properly.

do not overtorque these pieces, they are kinda soft...

http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=165637 can look here to see pics inside of 66rc2x (in this case this fella used vise grips with a gnurled grip, it marred his cartridge/lock nut up as well.. use a open ended box wrench and the vice blocks and there should be very little if any damage/scratches done to the cartridge/locknut
 

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castle-
ive seen that before and what that guy did to his damper rod did not look right to me and so i was wondering if that is really the way that it is done. the soft jaw clamps make sense, i did not even think about that.. ill pick some up
thanks for all the help
 

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toman42 said:
where did you find that? i looked on marz website and did not see anything.
I just snapped a shot of em, I got them directly from marzocchi, "soft jaw aluminum clamps" I wish I had the part number still but I dont' have the packaging anymore...

brian p in sales should be able to get you some, ronnie in tech is the one who told me about em......
 
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