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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I know this is a little after the fact. But I wanted to find out your thoughts on the MX Pro Lo as a replacement fork for a '96 Judy XC.

My bike is a '96 Stumpjumper. I'm 5'-7" and 165#s. The Judy XC fork's damper is blown. I'm an avid XC/Trail rider that's been dormant for a number of years for road riding. Trying to get back into the trails without sacrificing the quality of milk for my kids.

Looks like $90 plus shipping for rebuild kits for the Judy XC, about $100-ish + two-way shipping for Hippietech rebuild.

The Dart 2 seemed to be similar if not a downgrade to the Judy XC.
The Tora seemed to be a good alternative if I can find the right model with V-brake mount. The cost was about $50-85 more than the MX.

Found the MX Pro Lo for about $200. It seemed to have a good balance of:

80mm travel, V-brake mount, air/coil hybrid, rebound and lockout adjust.

Any experiences with these forks?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
preludedriven said:
I'm looking at getting the same fork (MZ MX Pro).... trying to find a good upgrade from my Dart 1. I recommend staying away from the Dart line. Super-budget fork, and not a lot of adjustability (not to mention, heavy as hell).

You'll save almost a pound with the MX Pro, plus gain lockout and 30mm stanchions (28mm on the dart)
I'm a little less versed in the merits of the stanchion thicknesses. But I hope to feel a significant difference/improvement.

I just went on a 2hr single track ride through the muck. Could have used some of the extra travel and real damping.

The fork arrives tomorrow. The V-brake mounts arrive the next day. Hope to have it all together for the weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Ok, so I went to install my new fork and realized I don't know how to work on threadless headsets.

Is there a DIY somewhere on this. I've looked at exploded views of threadless on wiki, but needed to know if there are special tools for removing things like the crown race and compression ring?
 

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I believe there is a tool for the crown race, but most of us just carefully pry them up with a thin-blade screwdriver. Just very carefully work your way around the crown race, prying it up a little at a time. Do some searches on crown race and you should find some threads about removing and installing them.
As to the compression ring, I've use two methods. One (if it works) is to use a razor knife to try to pry it up. The other is to grab the head tube with one hand and pound the steerer down (maybe a half inch) with a rubber mallet, then pound it back up and the compression ring should pop up with it. I posted a thread a while back looking to see if anyone had any better methods for this, but didn't get much of a response.

Edit: You didn't ask about the star nut. You can rig a tool for installing them, but you can get a star nut tool pretty cheap and they make it a lot easier. I regretted not having one the first time a installed a new fork.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Hm, I have a rubber mallot...actually two.

Star nut? like the one for holding the top cap in place?

My LBS contact said if I get the fork off and bring it to him, he'll take the lower crown race off the old fork for me so I don't damage it.

But I'm just not getting any of the top hardware off. I thought I'd do more research before I damage things and then I have to pay the shop to undo my damage.
 

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also, as an alternative, you could try calling a few LBS's and get quotes. I found a shop near me that would:
1. cut the steerer tube
2. install the star nut
3. install the crown race

for 18 bucks....not bad considering you won't have to buy any extra tools, and won't risk breaking anything.

The fork I ended up buying (2008 RockShox Recon Race) already has everything installed though, so hopefully it'll be plug&play :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My Marz fork is just the fork. In fact, I'm still waiting on the V-brake bosses.

I'm going to try the mallot method and take the fork off the frame. Then I'll head to my LBS and have him remove the crown race and the star nut. For as often as I change forks, I think I'll just have it taken care of by a pro.

I bought an expensive bike from him last spring and he's been really good about helping me with my biking needs. Wouldn't budge a dime on the price of the bike. But I've received more than that in service and advice from him.

So I try to return the favor by buying clothing and such from the shop even if I can get it a little cheaper elsewhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Ok, so I got a hold of a rubber mallot. One hit and the fork hit the ground.

I took the fork to LBS. They pulled the race off old fork and mounted it onto new fork. Even drove a star nut in the bottom of steerer tube for my fender and handed me a star nut for when I get home and cut the steerer to size.

I would have just put my bike back together but I heard a bunch of grit as I slid the fork into the frame. So I'll wait till I get home and clean the bearings and repack them and the other race.

I really appreciate the help guys. What a great forum and a bunch of helpful people.

Cheers.

Paul
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Ok, fork is on the bike...more or less...

I need to adjust the brake anchor since it doesn't appear to be even.

Also I didn't cut the steerer tube enough so I can't clamp down on the top bolt...or let the top bolt clamp down on the stem I guess.

But I did just take my bike for a spin. Interesting, with the slightly longer fork with a bit more trail, the bike is slackened a bit. Since the front is raised now, there is a bit of a falling affect when I turn in.
 

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traffic002 said:
Also...gotta figure out if I oriented the bearings correctly. Supposed to have open side facing the crowned race?
That's why you're supposed to be very careful when you take your headset apart (taking pictures can be a life saver).
If you have caged bearings (it sounds like you do), I think they normally go so the open side (the balls) is towards the races pressed into the headtube. So the lower bearings will have the open side up and the upper bearings will have the open side down. That's how some of mine have been, but I don't know that that's universally true.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
trailville said:
That's why you're supposed to be very careful when you take your headset apart (taking pictures can be a life saver).
If you have caged bearings (it sounds like you do), I think they normally go so the open side (the balls) is towards the races pressed into the headtube. So the lower bearings will have the open side up and the upper bearings will have the open side down. That's how some of mine have been, but I don't know that that's universally true.
When I put everything back together, I placed the bearings in its place and spun it. It appears that one orientation allows for smooth movement while the other direction doesn't.

When I put everything back together, it appeared to be working right. So hopefully that's that. But yes, I think pictures (hand drawn or digicam) would have been very helpful.

I'll post a review of how the forks perform in another thread.
 

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trailville said:
That's why you're supposed to be very careful when you take your headset apart (taking pictures can be a life saver).
If you have caged bearings (it sounds like you do), I think they normally go so the open side (the balls) is towards the races pressed into the headtube. So the lower bearings will have the open side up and the upper bearings will have the open side down. That's how some of mine have been, but I don't know that that's universally true.
Yup mine were set this way. Just installed my RS Recon this past weekend (ended up getting a better deal on this over the Marz MX Pro)....didn't take pics of the install, but paid super-close attention to the orientation of everything.

Check it out!



Post up that review when you can! :thumbsup:
 
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