[Natedogz]

Problem with my 2009 Haro Mary SS 29er started a couple weeks ago, the pedals would rotate forward with the chain and freewheel....occasionally while wheeling my bike around the garage. Didn't really think much about it, chain tension is good, clean and lubed. During yesterday's ride I started getting driveline noises while cranking on the pedals, again all bolts were tight, so I finished my ride. Took it in to LBS today and they said sounds like freehub pawls are catching and/or maybe chipped. Bearings are still butter smooth, chainline was off slightly but they adjusted that. They were getting ready to close and don't have the freehub in stock, so I would have to come back or leave it and I want to ride Monday.

So...who's taken apart their Mary freehub (Pivit branded), rebuilt, cleaned, lubed it, etc.? What tools do I need, torque specs etc? I'm thinkin just pull the freehub off, clean, lube and throw it back on for now. If it's still noisy and sticky then I'll get a new freehub for it. Any links to exploded diagram etc?

 

[bdickens]

Pivit hub ss

Hey
I have a steel reserve 1.3 and I am experiencing some similar problems
Alot of creaking when I crank hard and the freehub wants to spin when I am coasting
This really makes no footers dangerous

I was hoping downhilljill could help us out

I also was wondering if a profile mtn hub driver (cassette freehub) would fit in the pivit shell --so it would have faster engagement and --better springs on the pawls so it wouldn't drag the chain around when im in the air

Thanks JILL

 

[downhilljill]

I think our new Product Manager Dave may have responded to you today, bdickens.

 

[Natedogz]

Took apart my freehub and found that the pawls were starting to rust at their pivot points. There are four pawls retained by a circlip type spring.

1) To take apart the Pivit SS rear hub, after removing the rear wheel from the bike, remove the QR axle.

2) Next you may remove the lock-ring, the rear cog and spacers (however this is not necessary unless your replacing the cog.)

3) Remove the bearing pre-load nuts from both sides of the axle, carefully tap the axle on the left side (opposite the freehub body) until the freehub pops out with the outer bearing still in it. You do not need to remove the axle all the way assuming your bearings are still good (mine were.)

4) Carefully clean out the hub body where the pawls engage (a little spray cleaner and a rag, but be careful not to force dirt and debris into the hub.)

5) Remove the circlip type spring that retains the four pawls in the freehub body.

6) Slide the four pawls out of the freehub body and clean using some solvent, a rag and an old toothbrush.

7) Once it's all clean just reverse the steps to reassemble, lightly oil each pawl pivot point with some teflon oil such as Tri-Flow, but don't overdo it (before installing it back into the rear hub.) This freehub is not sealed in any manner, it relies on close fitting parts to keep the water and dirt out...similar to a Shimano geared freehub. So be careful with the water while washing your bike.

Tighten the bearing preload nuts just enough to take up the side play and reinstall the wheel assembly back into the frame droupouts and secure with the QR.

 

[Brewtality]

I serviced my rear hub this evening. The pawls still had a little bit of grease on them. I sprayed everything off with contact cleaner and coated all of the parts with a light coat of Lubriplate 105. I prefer a grease for this type of application because it will last longer than a teflon oil. Lubriplate is a light bodied white grease used in engine assembly. It drastically quieted down the pawls, but without the sticking common to heavier greases.
I tried the Park Tools grease before the Lubriplate. It was too heavy and sticky. The pawls would stick in their cavities and I would just get freewheel action in both directions.

 

[pghmtnbiker]

I had the same issue the pawls were wearing out. Had to file off some ridges and smooth the edge that grabs the teeth. Little Paul's oil and reassembly.

 

[Natedogz]

I had the same issue the pawls were wearing out. Had to file off some ridges and smooth the edge that grabs the teeth. Little Paul's oil and reassembly.

How long have you had your Mary? I bought mine just last April.

 

[pghmtnbiker]

I bought it used in 2008

 

[Natedogz]

Huh, your freehub is lasting lot better than mine....which has gotten much quieter in the couple weeks since it was cleaned and re-lubed. New it loud, now not so much. Made one crunchy half-engagement type noise on tonight's ride.

 

[pghmtnbiker]

The engagement is pretty much shot, trying to find a replacement free hub but not having much luck

 

[Natedogz]

Have you called Haro or your LBS?

Contact info here, but no mention of replacement parts???

http://www.harobikes.com/mtb/subNav3.php

 

[pghmtnbiker]

local LBS can't get Haro parts...contacted Haro but no response yet.


Anyone know who makes the pivit and compatible models?

 

[bdickens]

joy tech is the manufacture
some say wordman hubs are the same as the pivit and they are available from from bti

My hub has a shimano freehub like an A-class design all ratchets and pawls are internall and is held into the hub shell with an 11mm bolt. If your hubs has machined teeth on the inside of the hub shell, try an odyssey bmx cassette driver and swap your bearings you may have better engagement. (I couldnt do that because i have no machined teeth on my hub)

 

[pghmtnbiker]

I was told they are just rebranded formula hubs

 

[bdickens]

Im pretty sure formula is made from the same mold at the joytech factories

If you look at their site its pretty amazing how many companies use the joytech stuff as their own (have to look at the design and description no list of companies)

http://www.joy-tech.com.tw/

Also look at their high end line Novatech

http://www.novatec.com.tw/novatec/english/index.php