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Carb free mofo
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Hiya folks.

I had my heart and mind set on an attack trail 2010 6.7. I'd be using it for hitting up some local freeride stuff, trail centres, downhill tracks and for taking the dog out. It is mostly going to be used on riding local freeride stuff and 'riding' the dog!

Would it be worth spending that little bit more for the 6.8 even though my funds are low as it is?

The major concerns for me are pedal bob and then the brakes (though I can cope with these.

I've had a kona dawg deluxe before. That came with the standard fox air shock which just had rebound adjust - That was an uphill nightmare! Obviously, different types of suspension between a kona and Marin, but, how have people coped with the 6.7 for getting up to the top? Does the monarch 4.2 make much of a difference?

Although, I've noticed that Rockshox have released a new monarch with piggyback this year - would one of these fit on the attack trail?

Is there much of a weight difference on these bikes? If so: were is it being saved?

I'd really appreciate some opinions on this matter.
 

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I have a Marz Roco TST air on mine. Fits fine. I actually has a coil on it first (after the Monarch), but my Ti spring is just a hair wider than the steel spring, so it did not fit.

Piggyback should not be problem. Where things get tight is at the bottom of the shock.
 

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I've got the wolf ridge and it is has the best climbing/ weight ability of any bike I have ridden.
It bobs less than MV so AT should also be ok. It doesn't have weight shift induced rocking back and forth like horst link and faux bar like Kona because of the high initial pivot posn. They are however very active in the initial part of the travel and if the sag is set to high then the pivot posn moves much lower and they will bob. My MV is much more active initially than my Trance x with same air pressure but it doesn't affect pedaling because of chain growth. AT has monarch 3 with floodgate settings so it should be fine.
 

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NS-NV said:
I have a Marz Roco TST air on mine. Fits fine. I actually has a coil on it first (after the Monarch), but my Ti spring is just a hair wider than the steel spring, so it did not fit.

Piggyback should not be problem. Where things get tight is at the bottom of the shock.
What's the shock size on the AT? I might already have an upgrade shock if I by a frame.
 

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I took a AT 6.7 for a car park spin at LBS and it hardly bobbed at all. It had pro pedal on and off selection so climbing will not be a problem.From all tech reviews the Monarch supposed to have a starchy feel than the more free flowing smoother RP23 on my MV and WR. Certainly felt that way or it has built in pro pedal of some sort. They had a AT6.8 with the Monarch 4.2 as well but didn't take it for a spin.
 

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The Monarch and RP23 are pretty close in both performance and design, but I prefer the Monarch because it has a larger oil piston which improves rebound damping/control. I have both a Monarch and a RP23, but on different bikes, and they perform very similarly.

Sorry to say but the AT is going to bob significantly more than most AM bikes. This is the price we pay for the very sensitive and plush quad-link design. The AT has very little chain growth, much less than that of the MV, and will bob easily without platform. Marin redesigned the quad-link on the AT for use with the hammerschmidt crank, which requires reduced chain growth in order to manage kickback since the hammerschmidt is effectively always in the little ring (22 or 24t).

The new piggyback Monarchs allow even greater oil volume, for even better damping control. They would be the ideal shock for an AT, IMHO.
 

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jayz28 said:
Marin redesigned the quad-link on the AT for use with the hammerschmidt crank, which requires reduced chain growth in order to manage kickback since the hammerschmidt is effectively always in the little ring (22 or 24t).
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The AT was designed for the Hammerschmidt and changed the linkages from the WR to give stiffer pedalling action in the small chainring because they trialled the system on the WR and thought it bobbed to much. With only the AT 6.9 coming out with the Hammerschmidt, all other AT's should climb like scalded cats because they will be stiffer than the WR, which already is a very good climber. The one I rode had a shock lockout[ platform on/off] so that is still an option.
 

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Bloodied but Unbowed
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My 2010 Attack Trail 6.8 does not bob much at all. I do not use the lockout on the Monarch. It climbs amazingly well but does seem to pedal a bit heavier than my 2009 Mount Vision 5.7. Part of that is certainly tires.
 

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I swear I can only tell my MV is bobbing when I take a glance down at the linkages. I do feel it a little bit when I come out a g-out, but I think that has to do with not setting my rebound properly. I can't seem to get my dang rebound set so it feels the way I woudl expect it to.
 

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Bloodied but Unbowed
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That's my experience also. My 2009 MV 5.7 doesn't bob noticeably from the cockpit either. Seems to me proper pedaling technique all but eliminates it on pretty much any bike. I find that I rarely use the Pro Pedal feature, mostly because once it is on I forget to turn it off. I only turn it on for some longer, steeper, looser climbs when it is worth it to reach down and flick the switch. It pedals just fine without it.
 

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The MV has quite a bit of chain extension in the first 3rd of travel, significantly more so than even the vaunted VPP on the Blur LT2, which counteracts the bobbing action quite nicely. The AT on the other hand has quite a bit of bob out of the saddle, especially without platform. If you are one to stay in the saddle and spin, there is very little bob in just about any suspension design with some chain extension, including the AT.

According to some mags, Marin ditched the Hammerschmidt on the 2011 AT, which may mean they can go back to a more bob resistant design like the Wolf Ridge, but the suspension geometry data isn't out yet for me to compare.
 
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