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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there all you good people.

I've just encountered an annoying situation:
After injecting the 16 cc as writen in the manual to the botton of the casting, i closed the fork all together, filled the required amount of air to the spv valve and the seal erupted out of the casing!

why is that?

another Question i have is that the manual says that the NIXONs are filled to full with the oil... and I know only the 16cc that supposed to be put in the casting before closing the fork back . So what is there full to filled?

THANK in advance!
 

· noMAD man
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I imagine you might be reading some material about damper service on the "filled with oil" comment. I'm not familiar with all of them...just TPC and Intrinsic...but I'm guessing you're reading about damper service. Damper service and stanchion service are two different issues. The stanchion lube is only 16cc in each leg, but it sure sounds like you may have installed more oil for the seals to to pop out. I'm not as up on the SPV forks as some here on the forum, so hopefully an SPV person will comment.
 

· noMAD man
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shysor said:
that's a great phrase, but does mammy-poo effect mean?
LOL!...don't worry...just being a smart-a$$. The seals will pop up out of their rests on just about any fork but many of the Marz models if too much oil is in the lowers. Only the Marz seals are moto-style designs that will withstand the hydro type pressure in the legs with a full oil bath. Fox, Manitou, and RS seals are just pressed in for the most part. Recheck how much oil is in your lowers and push or tap the seals back into their mounts.
 

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Hey TNC

A bit off subject. I know you have been riding your 08 nixon for a while. I was wondering how it was holding up? I was considering the 145mm for my current bike. Would like the 160 but they are impossible to find. I had a older nixon super was impressed with the tpc plus damping. It developed some annoying stiction after a while. I tried several different bath oils to see if it was a lubrication problem and could not get it resolved. So I had to give up on it. Any info would be greatly appriciated. I am concerned about the small bump compliance. I know the damping and big hit are really good w/ the tpc plus damper.

Tom
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I ordered the 32mm EnduroSeals

While I've been dealing with this issue, I ordered the 32mm EnduroSeals:thumbsup: , since I was sure mine were worn out and dry.

Until the package arrives, I hope all will work fine with less oil.
 

· noMAD man
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tom schoonveld said:
A bit off subject. I know you have been riding your 08 nixon for a while. I was wondering how it was holding up? I was considering the 145mm for my current bike. Would like the 160 but they are impossible to find. I had a older nixon super was impressed with the tpc plus damping. It developed some annoying stiction after a while. I tried several different bath oils to see if it was a lubrication problem and could not get it resolved. So I had to give up on it. Any info would be greatly appriciated. I am concerned about the small bump compliance. I know the damping and big hit are really good w/ the tpc plus damper.

Tom
Tom, this fork has been bulletproof and has performed excellently. TPC+ is definitely the way to go for a Manitou fork IMO. I've had two Shermans and this Nixon. In my experience when you start to feel any stiction, it's just about sure to be from the sem-bath needing servicing...an easy job. I think you have to use motor oil, not fork oil for this application. Fork oil seems to offer poor lubrication return in this application for some reason. Manitou actually recommends motor oil. Especially for stanchion bath applications like my Van 36 also has, I add some PFTE based additive also which I think really helps.
 

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· noMAD man
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Since the semi-bath in each leg is only 16cc, I just add a touch to the Mobil 1 synthetic 5W-30 motor oil I use for the main stanchion lube. It doesn't take much of this stuff to make a difference. It's an additive, not the main source of lube. PFTE is some kind of teflon based substance that's pretty effective in many applications.

On the performance of the Nixon 160 that I have, it's classified as an air fork but it has a 4" long helper spring that changes the characteristics of the fork. With its somewhat hybrid spring system, it dives less and has great small and big bump performance. I've been very pleased with this fork. I just wish mine was another color other than blue, but function is more important than style, right?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
hi TNC

As i evolved a bit and have a bit more seance of what a fork i'm dealing with, and I followed your posts here and there, i see you have the experience of dealing with the Intrinsic Damper...

I want to open the damper on my nixon plat. and refill it with oil.
Can you advice me to jump and "do it", or should i pass it to a pro?
My concern is the issue with the vacuum of the IFP/CID (which for now sound just like letters).
Do you have any advise more than what is in the manual? like links or forums?

Thanks again

Shai
 

· noMAD man
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Manitou site

shysor said:
As i evolved a bit and have a bit more seance of what a fork i'm dealing with, and I followed your posts here and there, i see you have the experience of dealing with the Intrinsic Damper...

I want to open the damper on my nixon plat. and refill it with oil.
Can you advice me to jump and "do it", or should i pass it to a pro?
My concern is the issue with the vacuum of the IFP/CID (which for now sound just like letters).
Do you have any advise more than what is in the manual? like links or forums?

Thanks again

Shai
The online Manitou tech support link on their site is very good. It will cover the whole service issue on Intrinsic damper forks. The Nixon fork service text is quite long, as it covers every Nixon model with every spring and damper model available. Just go to the Intrinsic damper service section and read that. After that if you feel confident to proceed, go for it. You will need some fork oil and a small syringe and hose to induce that vacuum described in the instructions. It's a little easier to do that syringe deal than it perhaps appears, but if you feel it's beyond your expertise, be smart an get it done by a shop or someone.

You'll probably also need to replace that o-ring in the end of the damper rod, as it often gets damaged during disassembly. A replacement is readily available from most auto parts stores in an FJC o-ring kit #4028. The o-ring is not an unusual size and can be matched if there's enough left of the OEM o-ring.

Also remember to turn that damper rod leg 8mm allen head fitting "clockwise" to remove it. It is a left handed thread, so don't just start wailing on that nut in the conventional direction. Don't ask me how I know.:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Cheers... almost done

I've putt it all back together now- the damper wasn't as hard as i thought!

The rest is a peace of cake by now.

Helped a lot man!!

I will double :thumbsup: once back on the trail
 
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