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VRC Illuminati
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm not sure if it's sac relig. to put risers on a vintage bike but I have to ask the question anyway.

The Syncros stem's have a large/wide clamp so that it makes it very difficult (impossible) to get risers on.
Is it possible to heat the stem clamp section up enough to 'bend' it to make way for the risers or is this just stem suicide?
 

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I feel fine prying open a steel clamp but wouldn't do it with an aluminum. I got risers into my old salsa and an old bontrager by using a flat screwdriver to open up the clamp enough to get the bends through.

cheers
 

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Boy named SSue said:
I feel fine prying open a steel clamp but wouldn't do it with an aluminum. I got risers into my old salsa and an old bontrager by using a flat screwdriver to open up the clamp enough to get the bends through.

cheers
Agreed, on a CrMo stem it should not be an issue, but AL might bot like it. (Not sure what the Syncros stem is made from.)

R, I managed to squeze an Easton Monkeylight low-rise bar into a Bontrager quill stem on my SS Bonty. I used a screwdriver to hold the stem open wide and slid the bar through with a little work. Also, don't try it with a carbon bar - it's likely to get scratched.
 

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VRC Illuminati
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks guys.
The Syncros stuff should be True Temper made like the rest of their stuff (although I'll double check).

I did want to do it with low rise carbon bars though....
I guess it will depend on how much I can 'bend' the stem. A little heat shouldn't hurt to soften up the clamp if only a tiny bit.
 

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Rumpfy said:
Thanks guys.
The Syncros stuff should be True Temper made like the rest of their stuff (although I'll double check).

I did want to do it with low rise carbon bars though....
I guess it will depend on how much I can 'bend' the stem. A little heat shouldn't hurt to soften up the clamp if only a tiny bit.
As far as I know those Syncros stems were all aluminum. I wouldnt do it. Especially on a part that keeps my teeth in my mouth! ;)
 

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If it's a steel stem, no problem. I performed the 'ultimate' sacrilege recently. I reamed out the clamp of an 80's Salsa stem w/ roller to 26.0 and then threaded a moustache bar through it.

The best way to ease the clamp open is to remove the clamp bolt. Reverse it and thread it into the threaded part first. When it gets to the slot area, slip a penny bewteen the bolt and upper clamp area and slowly open the clamp just to the point you can thread your riser through.
 

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VRC Illuminati
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
ssmike said:
If it's a steel stem, no problem. I performed the 'ultimate' sacrilege recently. I reamed out the clamp of an 80's Salsa stem w/ roller to 26.0 and then threaded a moustache bar through it.
QUOTE]

:eek:

Does running a moustache void sacrilege behavior?
 

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Rumpfy said:
Does running a moustache void sacrilege behavior?
just referring to the permanent modification of the stem. the ultimate sacrilege would not be riding the bike! after all, as Ross used to say "If it ain't moto, it's worthless!" Oooh, I like that, I'll add that to my signature.
 

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Syncros stels are not true temper crmo

Rumpfy said:
Thanks guys.
The Syncros stuff should be True Temper made like the rest of their stuff (although I'll double check).

I did want to do it with low rise carbon bars though....
I guess it will depend on how much I can 'bend' the stem. A little heat shouldn't hurt to soften up the clamp if only a tiny bit.
they're made of 6061 aluminum, solution heat treated after welding. heat the clamp to pry it open, there goes the heat treatment, and probably your front teeth awhile later. don't even mess with it, bad bad idea.
you want retro, get a ringle stem with a removable face plate.
 

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Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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god you children... need to be taught everything the hard way.

Syncros Stems are EASY to fit risers into (or scott bars for that matter). Take out the stem clamp screws, thread in from underneath and put a penny in each hole to spread the clamp.. Done it countless times. Its not going to weaken the stem.
 

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DeeEight said:
Take out the stem clamp screws, thread in from underneath and put a penny in each hole to spread the clamp
echo, echo, echo, echo..... But not if it's aluminum. You might have done it, but I wouldn't recommend it to even an enemy.

Hey Rumphy, try a Titec Flat Tracker bar. Wide flat bars with a sweep back that when rotated to their "correct" position, give you almost the equivalent of a 1" riser bar. And they'll fit through your Syncros stem.
 

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ssmike said:
after all, as Ross used to say "If it ain't moto, it's worthless!" Oooh, I like that, I'll add that to my signature.
Are you sure? I thought he said, "If it ain't Scotish it's crap!"
 

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laffeaux said:
Are you sure? I thought he said, "If it ain't Scotish it's crap!"
You have to roll your r's, laddie. If it ain't Scottish, it's crrrrap! My co-workers are tired of me saying that phrase. Not sure if that saying came from Ross, but we sold bumper stickers we bought from Salsa that said "If it ain't moto, it's worthless."

Another good Ross-ism was from a sign hung up in the shop - "Wald, when the best just won't do."
 

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Rumpfy said:
I'm not sure if it's sac relig. to put risers on a vintage bike but I have to ask the question anyway.

The Syncros stem's have a large/wide clamp so that it makes it very difficult (impossible) to get risers on.
Is it possible to heat the stem clamp section up enough to 'bend' it to make way for the risers or is this just stem suicide?
Nitto makes a tool for this exact job. It's called a "stem pry". It was designed for getting drop bars, and their compound curves, into aluminium quill stems. A riser bar, with only two curves, should be no problem. I've used a wide-bladed flathead screwdriver, but the Nitto tool is much, much better.

Under no circumstances should you take a torch to your stem. Consider the consequences of failure at speed, and just don't do it.

--Shannon
 

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Doesntplaywellwithmorons!
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ssmike said:
echo, echo, echo, echo..... But not if it's aluminum. You might have done it, but I wouldn't recommend it to even an enemy.
YES if its aluminium. Aluminium is not this fragile material you make it out to be, especially not 6061T6 with a wall thickness like syncros used in their stem clamps. Maybe if you' had any experience in the subject of syncros stems, or aluminium alloys used in stems for that matter (Nitto making a tool for doing this exact procedure to stems) you'd realize these facts on your own.
 

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VRC Illuminati
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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
tube_ee said:
Under no circumstances should you take a torch to your stem. Consider the consequences of failure at speed, and just don't do it.

--Shannon
I wouldn't have gone the torch route...I've got a heat gun that I was considering using.
I may still try a big flat head screw driver...but my above post fixes everything as well...
 

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DeeEight said:
YES if its aluminium. Aluminium is not this fragile material you make it out to be, especially not 6061T6 with a wall thickness like syncros used in their stem clamps. Maybe if you' had any experience in the subject of syncros stems, or aluminium alloys used in stems for that matter (Nitto making a tool for doing this exact procedure to stems) you'd realize these facts on your own.
Based on this and the fact that I have absolutely zero experience with aluminum - woo, that was a good one, I'm going to order an aluminum spring for my suspension bike because aluminum is so tough and can be bent and manipulated with no ill effects. Thanks for clearing this issue up for me.

And while the Nitto stem clamp expansion tool might expand the clamp a bit, I doubt it was made with the tought of cranking open a Syncros stem wide enough to thread a riser bar through.

But, you're right, everyone else here is wrong and Eric still has his front teeth (nice smile Eric, keep up the flossing). Okay, that horse is dead.
 
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