And also one of the most expensive!I bought a set of Alex Vectra T2D's and at 1790 grams were the lightest wheels I could afford,if I wanted anything significantly lighter(150+ grams) I would have had to spend $500+ more then I did.I could have spent $100-$200 more and saved maybe a few grams,but not enough to make it worth it.Mr. Blonde said:Wheels and tires are the best place to save weight. That's where you'll see the most performance gain. Rotating weight takes more effort to accelerate.
Those bikes are incredible!And here I thought I was doing good at about 23 Lbs. and maybe being able to get it down to 22.gumbymark said:"As light as possible" - Hope you've got deep pockets.
Tires, tubes, seat, seat post, handle bars, grips and stem are the easiest and cheapest.
Then I would go wheels, cranks, fork, drive train and brakes.
But personally I would go tires, tubes, grips, buy a new bike.
It is far cheaper to buy a bike from the shop with the components you want than to build up a frame, let alone buy a bike and strip it.
This is about as light as possible - link
Incredibly goofy. Heinz Whitman is a dork. Has the lightest hardtail and number 4 FS.CRed said:Those bikes are incredible!
Heh.Maybe,but those are light bikes!They should post how much they have spent to get them that light.There's no way I could afford to be that much of an weight weenie even if I wanted to.I'm pretty happy with mine,I'll get it down to 22 lbs. while ONLY spending about $1400 doing it so not too bad.Mr. Blonde said:Incredibly goofy. Heinz Whitman is a dork. Has the lightest hardtail and number 4 FS.
For the vast majority of people upgrading and customizing a bike is one of the funnest parts. Maybe it's not about coming out cheapest in the end. Maybe it's about getting a decent entry level bike so you aren't in over your head and improving that bike toMrMook said:Not to burst your bubble, but you probably should have just bought the next model up. Upgrading a lower-spec'd bike to match one with higher specs is going to put you way out of budget. Especially if you're trying to shave weight. Much cheaper to do it all in one go.
I can't argue with that, and if you've got the money, go for it. I also agree with your advice about eliminating rotating mass, such as the wheels. But in general, to buy a bike with a lower-end groupset, and immediately want to start shaving ounces sounds like the infamous "upgraditis".Mr. Blonde said:For the vast majority of people upgrading and customizing a bike is one of the funnest parts.
You are dead wrong about the saddle thing. The most comfortable saddle isn't necessarily the heaviest most padded one. The most comfortable saddle is the one that fits your butt best. In almost every case you eventually find that a saddle with less padding ends up working out very nice. Lots of people find the SLR saddle line extremely comfortable. Also, to a point, rear derailleurs won't do crap for your shifting performance. The technology is in the shifter.liv2rideride2live said:for example, spending money on a light saddle (seat) will in fact get you a more uncomfortable yet lighter seat. at the same time, that money could have gone towards a new rear derailleur that will make your shifting much smoother, thereby shifting better at crucial times.
Yes, a weak attempt at humor.Bikinfoolferlife said:i would NOT recommend: taking your grips off and spraying on some kind of abrasive and adhesive so your hands can grip the handlebars, cutting the knobs off your tires half way or so, sanding down aluminum parts, cutting out the saddle foam and retrimming the cover to refit the saddle, or taking off one brake (rear, hopefully) and accompanying components
Personal experience? Definitely a good list of things to avoid doing
With all the wonderful information on these forums, the OP should be fine figuring out what is within his budget and reason (or not).
The saddle thing is true to a point. I was thinking more extreme, along the lines of composite saddles that lack any padding. Rear derailleurs must be fully functioning, and that is why they are more critical on a bike because of long-standing durability needed. If you take a look at higher end bikes, the rear tends to be at the same level if not one above the shifters. This isn't for the "ooh ahhh factor" as lower end bikes manufacturers can do with the more average rider...these bikes are aimed at the more knowledgeable and avid biker.Mr. Blonde said:You are dead wrong about the saddle thing. The most comfortable saddle isn't necessarily the heaviest most padded one. The most comfortable saddle is the one that fits your butt best. In almost every case you eventually find that a saddle with less padding ends up working out very nice. Lots of people find the SLR saddle line extremely comfortable. Also, to a point, rear derailleurs won't do crap for your shifting performance. The technology is in the shifter.