Make an enduro bike "feel" like a trail bike

tweak suspension settings= likely stiffer air spring and adjusted damping both front and back.
lighter/faster rolling/less grippy tires.
beyond that...not much.
chasing weight is a losing game if suspension isn't dialed.
really need more info as to the specifics of the situation= what is missing?
also, 2014 was a while ago...
again, don't have the specifics of your situation but testosterone replacement therapy, steroids, mild amphetamines can also bring the magic back(your particular needs may differ)

I agree with the stiffer air spring but I'd keep damping as fast as controllable to make the bike more lively. Tires are obviously going to make the biggest difference. After that there's probably nothing worth spending the money on (lighter wheels, suspension, drivetrain, etc). With the used bike market being strong it may not be a bad idea to just sell it and buy what you want.

Angleset installed in the + position to steepen hta. Maybe shortshock it. See if your fork travel can be decreased with new internals. Lighten whatever you can.

But really, exchanging it for $ to put to a bike that better suits your prefences and riding style will be the best way to improve it.

You need to extrapolate what you do and don't like about the old and the new.

Also, what is your local terrain like? what do you want the bike to do?

What is your favoured trail grade?

At first sight I cannot fathom what your would prefer about the old remedy. Newer geo is just that much better.

PS my wife has a tracer and it's a really nice bike......

Just ride it! I use my 170/165 enduro bike for everything from XC-DH. I've been on lift assisted bike parks to 50 mile, 5000' of climbing rides.
BTW, my bike is a 2017 Turner RFX, just love this bike!

Hurricane Jeff said:

Just ride it! I use my 170/165 enduro bike for everything from XC-DH. I've been on lift assisted bike parks to 50 mile, 5000' of climbing rides.
BTW, my bike is a 2017 Turner RFX, just love this bike!

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Same... except mine is a Slayer.

IMO. The geo on your bike is maybe too slack. Not nimble at slow to medium speeds. If your bike can take a HA set would be good. And if you can get a shorter off set fork crown too.

Angleset to regain the snappy quick handling you're used to. Chopper bikes have their place but if all someone's rode is chopper bikes, well ignorance is bliss.

The HTA is 65.5°. That's not that slack. My 120mm bike is just as slack. I think that would be the last thing I'd change.

The geo of the Tracer isn't crazy long or slack. What could be making the bike feel sluggish is all the travel. Riding a long travel bike on terrain that really doesn't call for it can make a mushy...sluggish ride.

My suggestion of getting another bike is an expensive one...but will probably give you the best result. Look for a 120 to 140mm travel bike. A 140 could be a good all 'round bike.

just ride a little faster maybe the bike will open up

steak, a big pile of fluffy, white, steak.

RS VR6 said:

The geo of the Tracer isn't crazy long or slack. What could be making the bike feel sluggish is all the travel. Riding a long travel bike on terrain that really doesn't call for it can make a mushy...sluggish ride.

My suggestion of getting another bike is an expensive one...but will probably give you the best result. Look for a 120 to 140mm travel bike. A 140 could be a good all 'round bike.

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Anyone so far suggest to him upping the fork compression? That's what the knob is for (or 2 knobs if it's slow/fast). Raise it up to max on the flats. I even raise it up 80-100% even on certain downhill sections. That's a very quick and easy way to remove travel sluggishness. I just don't understand why many people neglect their compression settings; I've found it's by far the best way to optimize fork travel and pedaling efficiency.

richj8990 said:

Anyone so far suggest to him upping the fork compression? That's what the knob is for (or 2 knobs if it's slow/fast). Raise it up to max on the flats. I even raise it up 80-100% even on certain downhill sections. That's a very quick and easy way to remove travel sluggishness. I just don't understand why many people neglect their compression settings; I've found it's by far the best way to optimize fork travel and pedaling efficiency.

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Wouldn't' that make the fork ride artificially harsh?

All these suggestions are still band aid solutions for a bike that is too much for the terrain its used on.

Its all guesswork until op provides more detail.

Run less sag. Change to better rolling tires, maybe even new wheelset. If it has adjustable geometry, use the high position. If the fork has more travel than the rear suspension, lower it within reason. Other options are angleset or cockpit changes for a better pedaling position. Ultimately it’s all a compromise, trying to make a bike into something it isn’t and you’ll find you should have just bought the bike you wanted.


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Faster rear tire. Slightly longer and lower stem. Coil shock on that build? I have a 2020 Primer with a coil, rides awesome as a trail bike.

Sell the bike. Get a mid or short travel bike. The Tracer can only be categorized as a trail bike by an advanced rider or someone that finds riding a beast on blue or blue/black trails fun.


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You can try messing with suspension settings - that is free, so why not.

The only money I would put forth in this endeavor might be different tires… but only if ones you would run on a “Trail” bike are different than what you have now. Don’t go throwing on some XC tires to try and make up for the “Enduro-ness” of the rest of the bike. Get tires that will work well for a true Trail bike if this experiment does not work out.

But realistically, you should be looking at a different bike, or at least a different frame and possibly fork.