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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So, I've been cleared to pull the trigger on a Mojo, provided the demo ride goes well, and now I'm trying to figure out what to do regarding the kit. I like the SLX kit (obviously) but I'm a bit wary of the XTR wheelset and upgrading the Float 140 to a Talas puts me at $5500+. I thought I might go with the SL kit and just swap out a few parts: wheelset, brakes and fork - maybe shifters). With a starting price of $4400 for the SL kit, I might be up around $5400 after all is said and done. So, the question is: Do I just bite the bullet and go with the SLX or do I go with the custom SL build? What did you guys do and for those who went with the SLX kit, any issues with the XTR wheelset or brakes?

Finally, I haven't bought a full bike in years and I'm buying the Mojo from my LBS. Is it worth it (or even possible) to try to get $100-200 off the price?

Thanks,
Charlie
 

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Green Mojo
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SLX Mojo Decision

I am also going through this same decision process on my Mojo. I have spent >100 hours (literally) shopping, re-shopping and considering options for wheels, brakes, etc. My conclusion (and it is just my own conclusion) is that the buyer gets a huge price break when going with the whole XTR package. I have been on every mountain bike web site in the world looking for information on this issue.

I have seen stories of people and companies that specialize in buying over-stocked XTR component bikes just to get the individual components. They then resell the components and bikes. It is obvious you get a signficant price break for buying the whole package.

When I attempted to go the route of mostly XTR components and just a few non-XTR parts the price went up quickly (I was considering Avid Ultimate brakes and some different wheels). I have now come back to all XTR. I know the bike will come in under 25 lbs and I know I will have the best or VERY nearly best components on my bike.

I plan to have the bike for a while and may sometime down the road swap the XTR wheels on to my old HARO, then go out and buy some other wheels. Right now I don't even know what wheels they would be. If you ask for opinions you will get different answers on which wheel is best. Some like the I9's, others prefer the Mavic SLR's, and others will spec the Chris King hubs.... etc. I have heard the XTR has excellent lateral stiffness and is right at about 1500 g.

The other issue for me was I like the idea of having my bike shop build my bike for me. If anything is wrong I take there for service and they are 100% responsible for it. The guys at The Bike Company in Lake Forest are doing this for me and are being very patient with all of my requests. If I had gone the route of building custom wheels from Arizona I (or whatever) I was concerned about who is really responsible for a squeak if 2 people are involved with the build. I like the idea of having one guy be totally responsible for the whole bike - especially given the money involved.

That's just one opinion from another buyer that has spent a TON of time on the issue!
 

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holding back the darkness
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ibis build dilemma

I too had the same issues when deciding which build to purchase. I built an excel sheet with all the parts, variations on the parts picks that I wanted and then what I thought I could recoup from sales of unwanted parts on craigslist or ebay. I came up with about 6 variations based on the 3 offered builds, the local shop custom build, and my own custom build using whatever hook-ups and ebay/craigslist deals I could find. All options came in within a couple hundred of each other. However, I went the full custom route and bought the bare frame. I have been able to find most of what I need through ebay and craigslist (new, buy-it-now) for substantially less than retail. I'm looking at a Mojo with DUC32 fork, SRAM x9/x0 drivetrain, Hope discs and I9 wheels for about $4300 (ballpark). If you aren't down with rolling the dice with ebay/craigslist most LBS's will offer a 5% discount on custom builds and maybe give you a credit on new take off parts that they can sell. Warning! If you do go the full custom route like I have be prepared to become fully obsessed with ebay/craigslist. Wives and girlfriends will not understand this. You have been warned.
 

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holding back the darkness
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That remains to be seen. Still waiting of a few items.... namely wheels and crankset. But I'm projecting it to be right around 25.5lbs with conti vertical pro tires using manufacturer weights plus 5% as a guide. Good enough for the girls I go with.
 

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Green Mojo
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216 Posts
Subliminalshiver Pictures

Subliminalshiver,

Please post pictures of your final build when you are done. Your bike is the Foam colored bike, I believe?

What was final factor that drove your final decision and selection of I9 for wheels? Was it weight? Rolling? Engagement? Stiffness? Do you have past experience with them?
 

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holding back the darkness
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Will do... like I said, still waiting for a few parts to trickle on in. Might be a couple weeks yet. I'll post the pics ASAP with complete weight and cost. It will be interesting to see how close my prediction was. Who knows? Perhaps the manufacturers are way off in their posted weights (what a surprise that would be!) and maybe it'll end up costing more than I thought... but then again, maybe less! Either way this whole process has been fun. I'm just glad that the weather here are been out-of-control cold and snowy... otherwise I'd be itching to ride something fierce!
 

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mojo mofo
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143 Posts
cchough said:
... I thought I might go with the SL kit and just swap out a few parts: wheelset, brakes and fork - maybe shifters). With a starting price of $4400 for the SL kit, I might be up around $5400 after all is said and done. So, the question is: Do I just bite the bullet and go with the SLX or do I go with the custom SL build? ...
I would have gone for the SL kit but I wanted a few things swapped out. I priced it with different brakes, wheels, headset, cranks, stem form all the sites I could find and by the time I factored in time and money for shipping it got out of hand and it suddenly made sense to just go SLX.

I still wanted different wheels because I've had good luck with King hubs, too bad my last bike came out when disk brakes were usually associated with motors. I had a wheelset built by Dave at Speed Dreams (King ISO and Stan's V355), the weight (1515g) and price (1000 Canadian) were nearly the same, I had to go with XT rotors because they come in 6 bolt, but my bike shop used Ti bolts to offset the weight difference. I also wanted a Thomson X4 stem and a headset upgrade to IS-8, about 70 for both. The bike has been weighed on several scales and it comes in at 25.6 lbs with Smarty SL pedals.

When I started the process, I wanted to spend about 4500 Canadian. Wound up closer to 6300, which is about 5300 USD. I don't have money to throw around, but I do have a sick bike and I'm almost over the buyers remorse. Now if all this dam snow would just melt, I could ride the thing. Judging by the rave reviews any remaining guilt should be gone when I hit the first rooty climb. :D

You can see a bunch of photos in my profile gallery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Glad to hear I'm not alone

I just went by my LBS and found out that the Med. Mojo demo bike won't be available for a couple of weeks. The good news is I now have 2+ weeks to obsess over the build kit... that's also the bad news. I think I'm going with the build below. I have no idea what the cost is going to be but I'm hoping that it's not too far North of $5400.

Sram X.O. R. Derailluer
Shimano XT F. Derailluer
Sram X.O. Gripshifters
Cane Creek IS Headset
Shimano XTR Crankset
Formula Oro Puro Brakeset
Shimano CN-HG93 (112 links)
Easton EC70 Monkeylite Lo
Thompson Elite Stem
Thompson Elite Seatpost
King/Mavic 819 Wheelset
Kenda Nevegal UST
'07 Fox Talas RLC

What is the general attitude toward the Talas v. Float? The guys at the shop seem to think that most people don't get as much use out of the travel adjustment as they thought and you give up a bit of plushness with the Talas. I'm coming from a bike with an 80mm fork so I'm thinking I might enjoy being able to dial the fork travel back to 100mm.

Subliminalshiver - I'm going to have my LBS source and install all the components. I went the ebay route when I built up my road bike and though I saved over $400 over retail, my ebay addiction was not appreciated (and barely tolerated) by my wife.
 

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Mojo0115
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1,667 Posts
One thing to consider discussing with your bike shop is to buy a "full build" but with some swap outs.

I purchased my own Mojo from my LBS as a frame + fully personal component selection.

But when I got the SX Mojo for my wife I wanted the base SX build but with two swap outs. (my wife wanted the pink Chris King hubs and I wanted to get a PACE 41 fork to put onto my bike) So effectively it was: move the TALAS of my Mojo onto my wifes Mojo, replace the SX wheel set with a custom wheel set, buy a PACE 41 fork for my Mojo in place of the Fox Float 140RL that is standard on the SX build.

My LBS gave me full retail on the SX components we didn't need (the fork and the wheelset) They were happy to do this because those components are ones they sell easily and even though the Mojo came with all of the components they just kept the swapouts and sold them to some other customer (obviously they were paying their normal cost and were happy/confident that it would resell easily.

The net effect is that I got a SX mojo for my wife with an different fork and wheel set selection for only the retail difference in the swapped components.

Hopefully this made sense.
 

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www.derbyrims.com
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cchough said:
What is the general attitude toward the Talas v. Float? The guys at the shop seem to think that most people don't get as much use out of the travel adjustment as they thought and you give up a bit of plushness with the Talas. I'm coming from a bike with an 80mm fork so I'm thinking I might enjoy being able to dial the fork travel back to 100mm.
I tried lowering my fork once for a very long fireroad climb. And it helped a little, I think. A shorter fork would only be usable on very smooth surface otherwise the pedals will clip the ground often due to the longer rear travel and low BB height.

The Mojo climbs very easily with fork at 145mm travel.

If anything I'd like an inch longer fork to extend for better pedal clearance when riding more technical condtions.
 

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CC,
A couple of thoughts....
-One very big plus to the SL build kit is the Easton XC-1 wheels. If you add up the components in this group, you are scoring these wheels at an unbelievable price. So far, I am very impressed with both their weight, engagement, and strength.
-Talas vs Float, I would seriously consider the Talas if you're coming off an 80mm fork. I find myself missing the adjustment of the Talas on serious climbs. I find myself 'bouncing' off of rocks and getting thrown off my line on the Float. I'm still adjusting my technique, and am sure I'll get it down soon enough. But I'm convinced the Talas would have been the better choice. I have one on my other bike and use it constantly.
 

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flow where ever you go
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mbexx said:
CC,.............. I find myself missing the adjustment of the Talas on serious climbs. I find myself 'bouncing' off of rocks and getting thrown off my line on the Float. I'm still adjusting my technique, and am sure I'll get it down soon enough. But I'm convinced the Talas would have been the better choice. I have one on my other bike and use it constantly.
Are you bouncing off rocks going uphill? If so, is it really "bouncing" off rocks or is it that the front is too light and gets pushed off it's line easily?

Whether you are getting bounced off line going up or down, I imagine your fork is not set up well. I have never felt bounced off a rock or off my line on my Mojo with the Pace Fighter fork (150mm) and thru-axle. I would think most decent long travel forks should be able to set up well with the Mojo frame. Maybe you're not plush enough or too much rebound, or....? Another thought is that having a stem too short or a handlebar too high might contribute to loosing your line.

I agree with Derby that reducing travel on technical climbs does bring the pedals in contact with very uneven terrain. However, reducing travel does give some advantage in extreme steeps and long steeps (especially muddy ones).
 

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right, I see your point as there is a difference. I'm really referring to the rearward bias b/c the front end is steeper than I'd like on climbs. The Float is real supple and plush...I'm very happy with it. I'm learning to lean into my climbs to keep the front end planted. Again, I just did not have to do it as much with the Talas.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Performance advatage to the Float?

mbexx said:
The Float is real supple and plush...I'm very happy with it.
Can you discern a difference between your Talas and Float in terms of suppleness and plushness? I figure, if there's a difference in performance, I can, as you mentioned, get used to the Float but if there is no performance loss, why not go with the Talas (aside from the $100 difference).

On paper, the Easton wheelset looks like a winner but I'd like to stay with a UST wheelset. So, if I go with the SLX, I'll stick with the XTR wheelset but if I go with the SL, I'll probably swap out the Easton for either a CrossMax ST or King/819. Decisions, decisions.

I'm just hoping the demo ride goes well because I'm sold on the Mojo.
 

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I went with the float RLC. I came from an Spec Epic. I thought the same thing. If you get the Float RLC you can lock out the fork & if you hit something hard it will compress. I love the upright position & feel. I have ridden a Spec Stumpy with the adjustable travel Talas & i tried adjusting to find the sweet spot, but ended up riding full travel. The Mojo is an all around bike. You can use it to race or go down hill. If you have the coin to have more than one bike then you can have diff setups with diff forks.
I'm sure your LBS can swap out comp's for you. I started with the Basic build & this is what i ended up with.
Mojo Large Frame (RP23 rear shock)
Fox Float RLC
XTR Crank(07)
XT frt derail
XO re derail (Fantastic)
XO Triger Shift's (Fantastic)
Easton lite bars & post (Carbon)
Spec Alias Ti rails saddel
AVID Ultimate's brakes ( Fantastic)
XTR hubs with DT Swiss rims & spokes(Used)
Kenda Navegales
 

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My LBS also allowed me to swap out parts from the SX build kit and end up with something a bit more custom. They gave me a credit equal to full retail on the Crossrides which I put towards a set of SLRs. I then changed the stem and seatpost for a Thomson X4 and Masterpiece respectively. My Marta SLs they swapped over from my Epic and put the Hayes on that bike. I've since changed a few more parts on the bike and for about $800 hless than the SLX build, it's just under 24lbs.

I was also lucky in that I got the RLC fork upgrade for no charge as Ibis didn't have XT cranks in when my bike was delivered.
 

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Green Mojo
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Got my Mojo

I picked up my Mojo last night and I rode it today for first time. I must say my first impression is even better than I had hoped for. The bike is extremely fast - on the flat and especially in climbs. I am very happy about bike's stability in uphill climbs. I purchased my bike with Talas fork and am quickly coming to like the ability to do travel adjustments on the fly.

I toyed with switching to Avid Ultimate brakes but I am very happy with the XTR brakes, I like the stopping action and the modulation is much improved over my old Juicy 5 system.

My bike's build came in at 25.42 lbs with the following components:
Rear Derailleur Shimano XTR RD-M971
Front Derailleur Shimano XTR FD-M971
Headset Cane Creek IS
Cranks Shimano XTR FC-M970
Brakes Shimano XTR BL-975
Shift Levers Shimano XTR SL-970 Shifter Pods
Cassette Shimano XTR CS-M970 (11-34T)
Chain Shimano CN-HG93 (112 links)
Handlebar Easton EC70 Monkeylite 660 mm Lo
Stem Ibis 3D Forged 31.8mm bar clamp/ 28.6mm steerer
Saddle fi'zi:k Aliante Gamma w/titanium rails
Seat Post Easton EC90 Zero 31.6 x 400mm
Wheels Mavic SLR
Tires Maxxis LUST: 2.0" Larsen TT (rear) & 2.1" Ignitor (front)
Fork '07 Fox Talas 140RLC
Shock '07 Fox RP23

In retrospect there's not much I would change except I REALLY wish I could have snuck in under 25 lbs! Not sure how I ended up over 25, but I know the decision to go with Talas cost me almost .2 lbs. Little things like Stans and tubeless tires will get you too.

I look forward to getting totally familliar with my new bike as quickly as possible, right now I am busy playing with all the settings before April trip to Moab. (I just hate seeing it get dirty, the green is so awesome.)

The only changes I may make in future might be lighter weight pedals, and maybe 2.25" or 2.35" tire in front.

Biker Neil
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Looks like a sweet ride Neil! Is it a medium frame? The large Mojo at my LBS with the straight SLX kit came in at 25.5lbs with Nevengals but that one has a Float which might explain the difference. Still, a 5.5" travel bike at sub 26lbs is pretty sweet.

Why did you choose the CrossMax over the XTR? Any concerns about the SLRs not being strong enough? They do look mighty nice.

Have you heard if the painted versions hold up better to scratches and nicks?

Well done and give us an update when you've put some more miles on her.
 

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flow where ever you go
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extra cable guide

bikerneil said:
I picked up my Mojo last night and I rode it today for first time. I must say my first impression is even better than I had hoped for. ...............

Biker Neil
I'm curious about the cable guide in the middle of the top tube. Did that come with the bike? On my small frame it does look like the cable would rub a bit on the middle of the top tube if not for cable guide donuts. This is the first time I noticed a guide there.

-nice looking ride, have fun.
 
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