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J:
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Need some new

Had to shave out a spot on cranks so I can periodically check it without having to remove the damn cranks every time

Did your bearings just fall out of the main pivot when you removed the loose pin?

One the things I noticed, when I had a similar problem, the new replacement pin did not come with the blue threadlocker on the threads... no way it will hold like that
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Had to shave out a spot on cranks so I can periodically check it without having to remove the damn cranks every time

Did your bearings just fall out of the main pivot when you removed the loose pin?

One the things I noticed, when I had a similar problem, the new replacement pin did not come with the blue threadlocker on the threads... no way it will hold like that
Seems bizarre the allen head is on the crank side. Am i missing something? Why isn't it disc side?
 

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Seems bizarre the allen head is on the crank side. Am i missing something? Why isn't it disc side?
My 2011 is the same. I don't know if other year/ models are different, but on mine the non drive side of the chainstay is the threaded end. I have not experienced loosening of the main pivot, but I have logged less than 20 hours so far.
 

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J:
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Seems bizarre the allen head is on the crank side. Am i missing something? Why isn't it disc side?
Extremely dated for sure, pin's been around since dinosaurs roamed the earth

Angled allen head support drivetrain torque and alignment for mashing over chunk.. no?

The brake side with only the threads...that's even more bizarre. * two piece like the shock pin except with anglular contact on both sides of the bike would be nice
 

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I'm on my second EG, first was a 2010, second is the 2011/12. Zero Issues. It has never come loose once. I've never removed the 2010 pin. The latest one I removed when I stripped the frame, grease all the surfaces and used blue loctite and it has stayed tight. I might point out it had no loctite on it when I removed it.
 

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No problem on my 09 frame. Only time that area "loosen" are when bearings inside gets totally shot. Pin wise-- still as tight when taking it off. My replacement pin and the stock all has blue loctite so far.


Deer-- how did you "shave a spot off the crank" But that still wouldnt make it able to access the bolt with a hex key right?

For visual I just eyeball the the threaded end.. pin sticks out ~1mm so if its anything less I know the pin is backing out on the other side even if there are no wiggling that can be felt.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I spoke to the factory:-

due to the axle is one of the most important conponents of bike, we don’t usually move it after completing bikes
; in order to prevent people to move the axle, so the bolt is made to be on the drive side.
Basically, there is nylok on axle, but once the axle is removed, nylok will be pilled off, and easy to get loosen. You need to paint the nylok again.
 

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Mine has never come loose. Quiet the opposite actually. Used a map gass cylinder to hear around the threads some and help break it loose. Just wanted to do a visual on the bearings.
 

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J:
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chainring

No problem on my 09 frame. Only time that area "loosen" are when bearings inside gets totally shot. Pin wise-- still as tight when taking it off. My replacement pin and the stock all has blue loctite so far.


Deer-- how did you "shave a spot off the crank" But that still wouldnt make it able to access the bolt with a hex key right?

For visual I just eyeball the the threaded end.. pin sticks out ~1mm so if its anything less I know the pin is backing out on the other side even if there are no wiggling that can be felt.
Rotate the 22t to an open tooth to see through, mark small notch here on next chainring, remove ring, use dremel w/ cutting disc, cut off just enough

old one
 

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J:
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I spoke to the factory:-
Did your pin have the blue on it?

I've had the same experience as craigstr, anvil, and terrible using the pin with the blue. The pin has never come loose on any my Titus bikes

Clamping force is not in question here, it is the one piece pin
 

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what's that rattle?
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I recall some speculation here that the bolt head might have been placed on the drive side to keep bearing drag from unscrewing the pivot bolt...from the factory's response maybe that's not the case!

In practice I've only seen the pivot bolt loosen when it was assembled without loctite or torqued inadequately. Play (or noise) in the rear-end was usually pronounced before the bolt backed out enough to cause problems, though.
 

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You could always have them drill and tap the area the bolt passes through for a set screw, although that might cause a crack down the road I guess.

Reminds me, I need to get a bearing/bushing kit ordered.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I've never had this on either of the two previous El Guapo models I've ridden, just on my El Guapo 29 sample. I suspect it's been disassembled and then reassembled without re-treating the bolt with the blue goo.

Good to hear it's not a common problem.
Advisable to treat with caution and add some notes to this area.

One of the wonderful things about "inheriting" a pivot design like the El Guapo is that I was pretty sure it was 100% solid. And I think my experience proves it's solid, so long as it's treated correctly.
 

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J:
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I've never had this on either of the two previous El Guapo models I've ridden, just on my El Guapo 29 sample. I suspect it's been disassembled and then reassembled without re-treating the bolt with the blue goo.
Took a look to compare, the new pin has a different head than the original. The angle on the original looked @ 45º, the new is much steeper angle where it contacts the chainstay
 

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Inspected my 2010 frame before a big trip and found the main pivot backed out about 1/4." I've never disassembled it before so took the whole bike apart and rebuilt it. Noticed there was no blue loctite on it and there seemed to be some aluminum shavings/dust at the end of the threads as if the pin had been galling. Inspected all the bearings under a microscope and they all looked good so I regreased and reinstalled them.
 

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Thx

Rotate the 22t to an open tooth to see through, mark small notch here on next chainring, remove ring, use dremel w/ cutting disc, cut off just enough

old one
Guess it would be a little more work for me-- need to drem the bash in my present setup... Anyway I always check when taking cranks off every couple of mths to grease up the bb bearings. Bike gets hosed after almost every ride (it pays-- 3.5 years and still on the same stock bearing :D)
 
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