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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am really loving my Magura brakes (MT-7) but am looking for feedback from others on pad compound. They have crazy good stopping power and great modulation but I am looking for a little more pad life. I am in NC so some of the downhill can wear the pads at a faster rate. Can you relay some of your experiences and recommendations?
 

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Good question, I love my MT7 brakes as well, but also surprised how quick the stock performance pads wear. I have been waiting for the Disco ceramic pads to get back in stock, but who knows when that will be
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Good question, I love my MT7 brakes as well, but also surprised how quick the stock performance pads wear. I have been waiting for the Disco ceramic pads to get back in stock, but who knows when that will be
Have you had good luck with the ceramic pads you mentioned? Also, have you used any of the other Magura pads such as performance or race?
 

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Any metal or semi metal pad will last pretty long. Most mt7 pads are organic it seems. Jaguar organic pads have lasted the longest with swiss stops green organic wearing faster in comparison but they are better pads. I haven't run magura performance pads, only the cheap pads that came with my mt5. There's a ton of aftermarket options. Even the cheap brands like disco, and trucker co were better than the magura pads that came with my brakes. Disco semi pads wear pretty well.

Pack pads. I've worn out two sets of pads mid DH causing the pistons to not retract. I never had that issue with other brands. If I pushed pads too far with shimano for example I would just hear the backing material grind on the rotor. With magura it's like they failed to design in enough piston travel to account for wearing out pads to the backing material.

prognosticator, magura's want to be set up by pushing the pistons fully in, then center the rotor. If you try to center any other way you'll have a hard time avoiding rub.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I just got a Ibis Ripley that came with M8s, so two piston. I was a Shimano guy before this bike.

I've had some frustration with disk drag on the front. No amount of niggling will get it stop.
I had the same issue but I was able to adjust it with feeler gauges. If you are running the 203mm rotor it's really sensitive to get right. Magura recommends facing the post mounts to ensure they are square.
 

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Any metal or semi metal pad will last pretty long. Most mt7 pads are organic it seems. Jaguar organic pads have lasted the longest with swiss stops green organic wearing faster in comparison but they are better pads. I haven't run magura performance pads, only the cheap pads that came with my mt5. There's a ton of aftermarket options. Even the cheap brands like disco, and trucker co were better than the magura pads that came with my brakes. Disco semi pads wear pretty well.

Pack pads. I've worn out two sets of pads mid DH causing the pistons to not retract. I never had that issue with other brands. If I pushed pads too far with shimano for example I would just hear the backing material grind on the rotor. With magura it's like they failed to design in enough piston travel to account for wearing out pads to the backing material.

prognosticator, magura's want to be set up by pushing the pistons fully in, then center the rotor. If you try to center any other way you'll have a hard time avoiding rub.
I wore my MT7 pads to the liner and had no issue with the pistons not retracting. I have Magura rotors, do you? Just asking because the Magura rotors are thicker than Shimano and some others.
 

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I wore my MT7 pads to the liner and had no issue with the pistons not retracting. I have Magura rotors, do you? Just asking because the Magura rotors are thicker than Shimano and some others.
2mm storm sl rotors. The first time it happened I thought it was just sticky pistons but then it happened again. The first time could have been a worn down rotor but when it happened the second time the rotor was pretty fresh. My pistons just wouldn't retract enough to to prevent near lock up levels of drag. The second time it happened I swapped front pads to the back which was the only way I could get the rear brake to function well enough to be ridable. I was able to use the front just on the backing material but the pistons still wouldn't retract enough to allow the rotor to not rub badly. I pack pads now just incase I fail to notice how worn my pads are again.
 

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Any metal or semi metal pad will last pretty long. Most mt7 pads are organic it seems. Jaguar organic pads have lasted the longest with swiss stops green organic wearing faster in comparison but they are better pads. I haven't run magura performance pads, only the cheap pads that came with my mt5. There's a ton of aftermarket options. Even the cheap brands like disco, and trucker co were better than the magura pads that came with my brakes. Disco semi pads wear pretty well.

Pack pads. I've worn out two sets of pads mid DH causing the pistons to not retract. I never had that issue with other brands. If I pushed pads too far with shimano for example I would just hear the backing material grind on the rotor. With magura it's like they failed to design in enough piston travel to account for wearing out pads to the backing material.

prognosticator, magura's want to be set up by pushing the pistons fully in, then center the rotor. If you try to center any other way you'll have a hard time avoiding rub.
Can you be more specific? Do you mean I loosen the rotor screws , squeeze the lever, then tighten the rotor screws while the lever is pulled?
 

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Can you be more specific? Do you mean I loosen the rotor screws , squeeze the lever, then tighten the rotor screws while the lever is pulled?
Loosen the rotor bolts, push the pistons all the way back. You can do this with the pads in but it's easier with pads out. with the magnetic pad design it's easy to remove and reinstall pads so I would remove them and use a tire lever or whatever to push the pistons in. With the pistons fully pushed in reinstall the pads, center the rotor and tighten the bolts slowly alternating between the two bolts so you don't pull the caliper out of position. There will be a big gap that will take a few lever squeezes to tighten up. It will feel like your brakes need a bleed until the pistons reset firming up the lever. According to magura the job is done at this point but I often have to make fine adjustments to the caliper after doing the above procedure.
 

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Loosen the rotor bolts, push the pistons all the way back. You can do this with the pads in but it's easier with pads out. with the magnetic pad design it's easy to remove and reinstall pads so I would remove them and use a tire lever or whatever to push the pistons in. With the pistons fully pushed in reinstall the pads, center the rotor and tighten the bolts slowly alternating between the two bolts so you don't pull the caliper out of position. There will be a big gap that will take a few lever squeezes to tighten up. It will feel like your brakes need a bleed until the pistons reset firming up the lever. According to magura the job is done at this point but I often have to make fine adjustments to the caliper after doing the above procedure.
This was very helpful! Thank you!
 
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