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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)

















XPE pod outer diameter

MS900 vs MS1400

MS900 vs MS1400

MS900 vs MS1400

Pod ends threaded and removable.

Optics/reflector P7 retainer ring interal and external threaded. Reflector rim threaded and screws
into retainer ring.

XPE optic

XPE optic

XPE optic retainer ring inner diameter

MS900 vs MS1400



XPE Pod, ring, slug, xpe

XPE Pod, ring, slug, xpe

Remote Switch Aluminum Body. Cap housing Aluminum threaded. Seperate driver component

3x XPG Carclo 10417 860mA

MS900 P7 High

MS1400 Dual XPE only High

MS1400 P7 only High

MS1400 P7 and dual XPE High
 

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Thanks, Texas, I wuz wondering about that mouse eared light. I enjoyed the disassemble. How was soldering, swarf, your over all impression.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 · (Edited)
No swarf. Solder was first rate. Thing is extremely well sealed. Thermal paste was a little thin on the xpe slug. Must desolder to remove and add more paste. PITA. Probably not necessary, but I already had the thing apart.
It is much more complicated than the MS900.
Body seems to be single unit cast aluminum. Pods connect via 18 mm by 2.5 mm truss. Not going to break them off very easily.
 

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Thanks odtexas for doing all those pics, it does look like good value and not as big as I thought it would be. Is the inductor bonded to the pcb or just soldered with no suport like in the 900?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Yeti - Inductor is about twice as big and is still unsupported. A blob of silicone might be nice for support. It does feel alot more solid than the MS900 inductor.

Znomit - Forgot to grab currents when I had it all apart. I am hoping to switch out the XPE optics so will be taking it apart again real soon. Will get current readings at that time if someone doesn't beat me to it.

No worries Geoman. This light is very well thought out. Quality control is top notch. Looks like a real PITA to assemble and wire. Heads and shoulders over the MS900.

Mount is different material/plastic, and design of mount looks stronger.

Only shortcomings was small amount of thermal paste on XPE stars.
Allen set screws on bottom of pods, control pod rotation, both stripped out.
The cast aluminum is just not strong enough for that few number of thread. Not a big deal if you aren't planning on taking the thing apart alot. But I could see that maybe someone might recieve one with the pods being a little loose in their collars and the customer would be unable to tighten. I just pushed some JB Weld into the set screw hole, let it set a little, and then put the set screws in through the JB Weld. Holding just fine.
Water can get in through the small opening between the main body and the XPE pods where the wires leave main body and run to XPE stars. Only way to truly seal it would be to silicone the small rubber elbows which the wires are run in.
If it wasn't for those little wire pass throught this light would be water tight to a couple of meters. All optics and pods have o-ring seals.
Last thing would bet the star retaining rings are plastic. MS900 used alumimum rings that threaded in to hold the stars down. Was mildly surprised to see plastic ones in the light. Not a problem for your average user of course, but the aluminum ones would aid in thermal transfer from the front surface of the star to the light body.
I still think this light has more than enough surface/transfer area to keep it cool.

Fit and Finish is excellent. I was impressed. Like the sealed battery unit as well.
And it is the same battery as the MS900. Just a new and improved housing.
 

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GeoMan
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odtexas said:
No worries Geoman. This light is very well thought out. Quality control is top notch. Looks like a real PITA to assemble and wire. Heads and shoulders over the MS900.

Fit and Finish is excellent. I was impressed. Like the sealed battery unit as well.
And it is the same battery as the MS900. Just a new and improved housing.
We had to establish a new production line to handle the added complexities of the Magicshine 1400 assembly. QC is being watched very carefully.

Geo
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Battery is a 7.4 v lithium ion 2p2s. Capacity probably around 4400 mAh if using cheap 18650s.
Best guess on optics are the Carclo 10197, Luxeon 1 20mm.
Can someone confirm height of those Carclo optics. Can't find a data sheet on it. I have never used them in my builds and don't have any on hand to measure either.
 

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mojojojoaf said:
Spill and penetration look great on that last photo- not bad at all.
With just the P7 on it doesn't seem to have the punch of the 900. Is it a different reflector?

 

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odtexas,

Very nice initial dissection of the light.

A few things I'm curious about, and some requests.

Are there separate drivers for the XPEs? The could be hiding in the little black ring the XPE thermal clad board was attached to.

What gauge wire runs into the main light body. The original magicshine used something like 22 gauge which is kind of thin, in my opinion. Can you tell if the wire is PVC or Silicone coated? Based on where the mode switch connects to the cable, I'd guess there are at least 3 and maybe 4 separate wires in the cable that runs into the main body of the light. My hunch is they are using thin wire again. Easy to break, and fatigues easily after a lot of flexing.

It looks like there is only one inductor on the main electronics board. Can you tell if that board is only for driving the P7 or does it drive the XPEs as well?

Does the battery come apart easily? I'm curious what the protection circuit board looks like and if the Ii-Ion cells look like they are good quality.

Request #1: If your camera has a macro function, could you take a close up of both sides of the main electronics board. I'm curious to see if they used the same 6 pin driver chip with an external mosfet transistor, like they used in the original magicshine.

Request #2: If you haven't siliconed down your inductor yet, could you bend it a bit one way and then the other when taking pictures of that side of the board? It would make more detail visible.

Request #3: If there are separate drives for the XPEs a picture of one of those would be nice.

Oh, don't use something like silicone window caulking to mount your inductor. As it cures it gives off a vinegar-like smell that comes from acetic acid. The acid can eat away your circuit board. Use a neutral-cure silicone if you can fine one. Something that claims it is good for coating electronics is best.

Or if you intend to use some artica alumina expoxt adhesive to make better thermal connections inside the light, that would also probably work fine for holding the inductor in place.

Thanks much,

Mark
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Znomit -
Reflectors are different.

Left is MS1400 right is MS900
MS1400 15.3 mm at star base external diameter to 33.21 mm at flange base
MS900 17.94 mm at star base external diameter to 35.85 mm at flange base
Both 19.75 mm high
mA gets interesting though
MS900 high 2.36 amps P7
MS1400 high 1.95 amps P7 .12 amps low
MS1400 XPE high .62 amps .02 low
MS1400 XPE and P7 high, all on, XPE .52 amps, P7 1.71 amps
Interesting isn't it??:D
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
mhahn -

Are there separate drivers for the XPEs? The could be hiding in the little black ring the XPE thermal clad board was attached to.

Can't tell if there are two drivers in there or not. The P7 star and driver are stacked together and can only be removed if all wires to both XPE pods are removed. There is room in there for components on the back side of the board and all wires go into the space between the back of the P7 star and driver.

What gauge wire runs into the main light body.

20 or 22 gauge silicone.
Wire running to XPE pods probably 28 or 30 gauge. Very thin and easy to break. Another reason to not recommend taking it apart unless you are careful and good at soldering.

Based on where the mode switch connects to the cable, I'd guess there are at least 3 and maybe 4 separate wires in the cable that runs into the main body of the light. My hunch is they are using thin wire again. Easy to break, and fatigues easily after a lot of flexing.

Can't tell how many wires come out of the main cable since it exits into that small space I didn't get into.

It looks like there is only one inductor on the main electronics board. Can you tell if that board is only for driving the P7 or does it drive the XPEs as well?
Back side of board is a mystery.

Does the battery come apart easily? I'm curious what the protection circuit board looks like and if the Ii-Ion cells look like they are good quality.

Yes. The housing is actually aluminum. Threaded end cap. Guessing same exact battery as MS900



Request #1: If your camera has a macro function, could you take a close up of both sides of the main electronics board. I'm curious to see if they used the same 6 pin driver chip with an external mosfet transistor, like they used in the original magicshine.

Top of driver only. 2 black rectangle components have MCC SK548 on them.

Request #2: If you haven't siliconed down your inductor yet, could you bend it a bit one way and then the other when taking pictures of that side of the board? It would make more detail visible.

What I can get of the board






Request #3: If there are separate drives for the XPEs a picture of one of those would be nice.

Couldn't get that one.

Hope some of that helps.:thumbsup:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
No strobe modes. 4 little colored leds.
First push XPE pods on
Second push P7 on XPE off
Third push all on.
Holding button down in any mode causes gradual dimming.
Neat feature if you are into that sort of thing.
 

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Nice pull down Odtexas , thanks , man you must have been fast getting hold of one .

battery pack looks a huge improvement .

It is not to my liking the mickey mouse ears but I guess it will sell in its thousands like its brother .

:madmax: cant they make a light that does what it says on the tin lumen wise .

We should have a special section on here for comercial light strip downs and testing maybe that would scare the big boys in to telling the truth .:D

bit of extra space could you slot in a small driver and push the xpes harder
 
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