What was the correct way to adjust spring tension on these brakes? My cantilever studs do not have the regular three holes. Just one. Whatdayathink?
Preloading? You mean opening the spring up to get more tension?bushpig said:I'm guessing you need to tweek the spring tension like on the first gen Ritchey Logics, i.e. by pre-loading until you get the appropriate response on both sides.
Yeah I was going to try out different springs but figured someone might have come up with a good solution before. What would bending the little ges do for tension? They'd break of with my luk.Carsten said:i can't see any way of adjusting them other than trying out different springs. you may achieve some fine tuning by bending the small legs of the springs. the three holes in the brake studs are meant for giving the brakes more or less spring "pre-load" (?) but not for adjusting them (my experience).
i meant that the springs on both sides should be in the same hole position and the different holes are meant to give the brake levers more or less return spring. the differences in spring pre-load between the holes are too large to use them to center the brakes. may need a native english speaker for translationckevlar said:Preloading? You mean opening the spring up to get more tension?
that essentially will bend the little legs (i.e. reduce or enlarge the angle between leg and spring). or would it open or close the spring itself? i never tried it with the brakes still mounted...Fillet-brazed said:Bushpig is right. The proper way is to remove the wheel and bend the spring out or in to acheive the proper and balanced spring rate. If you need a stronger spring on one side you probably need to remove the pad to enable you to do this. For example, in the case of the left arm not returning from rim, remove pad and rotate left canti arm away from rim until some resistance is felt. Then go a little more to change spring rate - it requires some slight bending so dont be scared. Then check again for balance between the two. If you need more preload, repeat. You do the opposite to reduce the spring rate, but you dont have to remove the pad for this one.
Using the straddle cable as a way of centering cantis is busboy style.
I just think it resets the distance from leg to leg on the spring. We did it all the time back in the day. Works great.Carsten said:that essentially will bend the little legs (i.e. reduce or enlarge the angle between leg and spring). or would it open or close the spring itself? i never tried it with the brakes still mounted...
i was worried that it would damage the plastic spring cover.
I was hoping somebody would post that technique. I was going to but was worried I would get bashed for it. Yes, it does work great.Fillet-brazed said:I just think it resets the distance from leg to leg on the spring. We did it all the time back in the day. Works great.