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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
rite
M3 with Swinger 6 way and 400 coil, which allegedly is a bit solid according to TFTunedshox.com, as i'm about 66kg when stripped nekkid
Anyways, Volume knob is set flush with the piggy body. So the volume is rather large. Still the bike never bottoms, I usually set between 110 and 120 psi pressure. Low speed dial is fully in (well, a quarter turn away from fully in to avoid it to lock) and Hi Speed is a quarter turn from all the way open. These settings are a combination of what I used on the 5th element on my M1 of old, and comments by a former Beone Worldcup DH shock fettler.

Now, the bike jumps great, tracks fantastic and rails berms as well as off cambers. Perfect. It forgives the odd quirky landing and takes 4 meter drops. But the shock feels a bit dead (as in: non responsive and dull) and I also want it to pedal and accelerate better It's great, but I want it even better. That said, the bottom bushings need to be replaced, and the shock has been returned once for an warranty case with internal friction, making it bark like a frantic dog.

Anyone who can comment on these settings with a motivation?
ps: Michelin C24 on 1.9 bar, used a dorado mk1, now fitted (not ridden) Fox 40 if you really need all the info.
 

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How much preload on the spring? I found that I liked the 5th better with more . Forget exactly but maybe like around 2 turns my 165lbs 500x2.25. More preload on the spring will liven it and make it pedal better. You'll most likely have to lower your other settings(air psi will have the greatest effect on the firmness you gained with more spring preload) Try upping the PLoad start at say only 1/2 to one full turn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
So you want to engage the spring more by upping the preload. interesting.
I'll definately try this, but at the same time it puzzles me. From what I know the margins to play with are very narrow as
- a spring will only take 2 full turns -otherwise you need a heavier spring
- the experience that my friends and me are gathering is that VPP bikes are VERY particular on correct sag settings. My mates (all die-hard FSR riders) went out to test a Socom and they all found it accelerating okay but jumping very awkwardly. All the settings were by the book. Later we found out that the sag wasn't right. When they tested my bike afterwards, the sag was ok (same weight as me) and they found the bike feeling entirely different, jumping like a yough gazelle etc

Actually, here goes another question for the engineers. How do you measure sag.
In the shop just sittng down? or do you put some stuff under the rear wheel to cause a 15% downslope so your weight distribution is reflecting the trail more? Or do you actually mimic your riding position? My friends tell my i'm pretty much up front, close to the bars.
 

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your sag is measured from eye to eye on the shock. stand on the bike ( on the pedals ) and have a friend measure it for you. depending on your preference the sag should be set to between 30 and 45%. multiply the stroke length of your shock (3 inches) by the percent of sag you want ( 30% = .30 ) . . . . . . 3 x .30 = .9 so when standing on the pedals your eye to eye length should be right around 8 5/8 inches. i am about your same weight with the same spring rate, same high and low speed settings running about 40% sag. my set up works very well for me. good luck
 
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