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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all,

After a rainy/muddy day in the Alps, with some nice falls (Maxxterra DHF on wet tech trails, never again), I just saw these scratches on my righ stanchion :


It's not a surface one, it has some dept, as you can hear in this video:

Is this a systematic crown remplacement (330 bucks or something like that) or should I try something else ?

Can I ride without minding too much ?

Thanks in advance.
 

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Check the air pressure, if you dont loose you are ok for now. The most important is to cover the scratches. In such cases and since you dont want to mess with sandpapers and paints again, you should use womens favourite accessory, nail polish and after that cover with top coat.
The nail polish should be applied in layers, first one should be done with a pin just to cover the deep parts, after this is dried out you can use the brash to apply a new portion and make the surface even. This should be checked and applied again after some rides, its not set and forget.

Sent from my SM-J510FN using Tapatalk
 

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EAT MORE GRIME
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if you fill it, clean with acetone then fill with jbweld that has firmed up a bit


smooth it out

24 hours later buff it smoother/fine sand

or as posted, nail polish works too. the idea is as smooth as possible and something that won't scrap, nick, or cut the seals
 

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I would sand it and fill it with nail polish, and sand it again to get the nail polish smooth. The reality is that the damage is done and you aren't going to do more damage in attempt to repair it. What you're trying to do here is get rid of the friction and any potential resulting damage to the bushings. The absolute smartest play here is to replace the CSU, but as you mentioned, that's 300 bucks.

The reality is that the dust wiper isn't sealing any air in. All it's doing is keeping the bath oil in that lubricates the bushings and dust wipers. As long as the repaired scratches aren't destroying the bushings and they aren't ripping the dust wipers, it should perform normally and last just about as long as it would in healthy condition.
 

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I'd smooth them and let them be. I don't think trying to fill them accomplishes anything.

Suspension air is not held in by the fork dust seals. It's in the inside of the left stanchion, not the outside. A fork would run fine with no dust seals. Dirt would get in and bath oil out, so not a good idea in general.
 

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Nail polish falls out in a few rides IME.
 

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Nail polish falls out in a few rides IME.
This^

Nail polish works fine for little dings, that's not what you have. I never tried anything like jb weld, it may hold up better. Its to deep to just sand in my opinion. The best option is to just replace the CSA. 2nd best is to fill with something that's hard and sticky and use very fine sand paper to smooth it out the best you can. You need the dust/oil seal to do its job properly and it won't if you don't fill it.
 

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Just a flesh wound
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I did the same to my Fox 36 with Kashima. I used a stout razor blade to cut off the protruding edges. After that I did a wet sand using a 600 grit to smooth it out, and filled it with epoxy. After the epoxy was cured, I used the same razor to cut it back to the original profile of the stanchion and wet sanded again to smooth it out. As long as it comes out smooth, the wiper seal will do its job. You Tube has some good videos of people fixing fork stanchions this way. I was totally bummed when it happened but it came out great.

A good magnifying glass is helpful.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thank you all for your answers,

Being in a trip to ride, I didn't have the possibility either to save the fork or to repair it, so I've ridden it 3 more days after the scratchs.

It doesn't have any unwanted oil on the stanchion for now, so what I will do is service it, sand it to be sure and try to ride with it again. If it's dead, I will grab an RC2 or something equivalent during a sale.
 

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Isn't the recommendation to sand the scratches in-line with the scratch, not across the scratch?
going in across direction is always the best way to smooth out scratches while removing the least possible amount of material. I have successfully repaired fairly large and deep scratch with car clearcoat, the stuff you get in OEM touch up sets, it´s very sticky and won´t fall out if you prep the surface well.
 

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I did the same to my Lyric,filled the gouges with epoxy, and it just wore off in a few rides.

Use fine steel wool and water, try to buff out the gouges just enough to make them less grabby, ride it, and check your foam rings and do service more often OR replace the CSU.
 

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going in across direction is always the best way to smooth out scratches while removing the least possible amount of material. I have successfully repaired fairly large and deep scratch with car clearcoat, the stuff you get in OEM touch up sets, it´s very sticky and won´t fall out if you prep the surface well.
Oh okay. I thought that if you went cross the scratches it could introduce a burr or something. Can't remember the reason I thought that but good to know it's not the correct approach.
 

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I had something similar happen to my Mattoc. The hole was pretty deep. Epoxy just fell off right away but nail polish stuck well. Sanded it down first with a small file, several layers of nail polish until the hole was filled and then filing and sanding again.
It has been working for 16 months now without issues.
The CSU would've cost half of the price of the fork...
 

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Had the same happen to my Yari, a rock got jammed between the bridge and stanchion while rifing leaving one deep gouge and a couple of smaller ones. Took it to my trusty lbs mech for inspection and he decided it was best to sand smooth and keep riding it. This happened last September, the fork had two lower leg services since then, the lubrication oil was ok both times, no other ill effects either.

On suggesting filling with nail polish his reply was that should the hardened nail polish chip away it could cause more damage inside the fork than the scratched stanchion.
 
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